Harmon Mark 3?

Post Reply
 
GlenRockPACoalnut
New Member
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed. Sep. 16, 2009 6:48 pm

Post by GlenRockPACoalnut » Wed. Dec. 30, 2009 9:44 am

Hi,
I have been burning Coal for two seasons now (Superior Nut size coal) and Stove heats house great. Is anyone having the issue of the front of the stove not burning that great? My stove gets shaken twice a day and never shuts off but it seems that the front builds ash and there is some unburned coal in the front. I bank the stove a little higher in the back but find myself always working to keep the fire going in the very front. ( I poke through the grates with a small poker to make sure there is a good orange glow in the entire ash pan ) My Brother has the same Stove and has the same problem........ My neighbor has a Harman TLC 2000 Top loader and his stove is extremely easy to shake/keep running compared to mine (Mark 3)

Thanks, Billy

 
ken
Member
Posts: 1259
Joined: Sat. Apr. 21, 2007 11:35 pm
Location: thompson , ohio

Post by ken » Wed. Dec. 30, 2009 10:46 am

Put the Mark 3 on Craigslist and buy a TLC 2000. :D I know what a smart azz. One the guys probaly help ya out that has one. I think one of the guys mounted small flat stock or angle to keep the coal back from the front.

 
User avatar
SMITTY
Member
Posts: 12523
Joined: Sun. Dec. 11, 2005 12:43 pm
Location: West-Central Mass
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520 Highboy
Coal Size/Type: Rice / Blaschak anthracite
Other Heating: Oil fired Burnham boiler

Post by SMITTY » Wed. Dec. 30, 2009 10:51 am

My old Mark I did this, as does my Mark III .... it's just the design of the stove. The front is the lowest part of the firebox (to allow for the loading door), and is always the first to burn out. One trick is to take a shovel full of ash from the pan & cover that area close to the front firebricks before you load the stove up. Shake it down, poke, do everything normally, then toss the ash on the front just before you throw fresh coal on. helps to slow the fire down in that part a bit.

Another thing I do is find flat pieces of coal & use them to build a small extension of the firebrick, so I can pile coal on without it sliding down on top of the firebricks & falling out the loading door. The deeper you can get the bed, the longer it will burn.


 
User avatar
lowfog01
Member
Posts: 3889
Joined: Sat. Dec. 20, 2008 8:33 am
Location: Springfield, VA
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Mark II & Mark I
Coal Size/Type: nut/pea

Post by lowfog01 » Wed. Dec. 30, 2009 10:51 am

Hi Billy,

The Mark I, II, III series all seem to have an issue with ash build up right along the front edge. It's been suggested in previous posts that its caused by the "over the fire draft" they have in that area for the window air wash system. Previous posting have suggested covering the over the air openings on the door with foil. That seems to take care of the issue but stops any semblance of a window air wash system. Most people just work with it by using the poker and insuring that area is clear out. I poke my Mark II in that area every 2 or 3 days or when I notice that there is a dark shadow instead of glowing red in the ash pan under that area. Come spring, you can use this strip of ash to your advantage as it acts to reduce the size of your fire box allowing you to burn less coal with a lower draft. I hope provides some insight. Lisa

 
User avatar
Cap
Member
Posts: 1603
Joined: Fri. Dec. 02, 2005 10:36 pm
Location: Lehigh Twp, PA
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman SF 250, domestic hot water loop, heat accumulator
Coal Size/Type: Nut and Stove
Other Heating: Heat Pumps

Post by Cap » Wed. Dec. 30, 2009 3:29 pm

lowfog01 wrote:Hi Billy,

The Mark I, II, III series all seem to have an issue with ash build up right along the front edge. Lisa

My Harman SF250 does it too. Don't fight it. Poke the ash in the front & fill her back up.

Post Reply

Return to “Hand Fired Coal Stoves & Furnaces Using Anthracite”