Keeping My Stove Going While At Work

The manometer I use is a Draft Rite by Bacharack. All you do is insert the probe into the hole that is below the baro put finger over the hole in the manometer for the zero check and let off on it and there is your reading....I am -.04 now matter how I adjust the barometer. Here are pic's of my set up. I use Blaschak Pea size. My stove runs good now since I have tweaked a few things including the draft on ash door to 1.25 turns open and making sure when I shake the grates I see red all the way across the grates. I have come home from work 4 straight days to a fire and opened the door and brought the fire back to life instantly. Here are pic's as requested by previous poster. Thanks all.

uffbros wrote:The manometer I use is a Draft Rite by Bacharack. All you do is insert the probe into the hole that is below the baro put finger over the hole in the manometer for the zero check and let off on it and there is your reading....I am -.04 now matter how I adjust the barometer. Here are pic's of my set up. I use Blaschak Pea size. My stove runs good now since I have tweaked a few things including the draft on ash door to 1.25 turns open and making sure when I shake the grates I see red all the way across the grates. I have come home from work 4 straight days to a fire and opened the door and brought the fire back to life instantly. Here are pic's as requested by previous poster. Thanks all.

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I see your using a B-34 baro not the most accurate one out there keep the back of the flap door clean from flyash it will screw up the weight inside when you get some extra money by yourself A Field control Type M or a Type RC or RCBT
they are more accurate then the B-34 .

The Baro you have is not the best...
We swapped out a B-34 for a RC...
Made a big difference...
The King-o-Heat likes it...

CapeCoaler wrote:The Baro you have is not the best...
We swapped out a B-34 for a RC...
Made a big difference...
The King-o-Heat likes it...

Is there a echo in here

At $70 for the install and $31 for the damper..I'll just deal with it. I don't think it does anything..It hasn't moved at all today. I think I got my original problem for post of not getti ng more than 8-9 hours out of a burn cycle by draft control and ash control. Thanks all for all your responses.

Echo...
Just a chorus...
I hate to see money spent on the B-34...
When the same amount will buy a RC...
There is a difference...
The demo at my friends store with the King-o-Heat...
Proved it to them...
They will only sell the RC or M for coal stoves...
No more B-34 to be sold...

SMITTY wrote:WAS using Kimmels bagged nut.
Now using Blashak bagged nut.

Weird. I have some of each, and I think the Kimmels burns better and hotter and longer than the Blaschak. I think both brands vary from pallet to pallet and year to year.

uffbros wrote:At $70 for the install and $31 for the damper..I'll just deal with it. I don't think it does anything..It hasn't moved at all today. I think I got my original problem for post of not getti ng more than 8-9 hours out of a burn cycle by draft control and ash control. Thanks all for all your responses.

If when you give the flap a little push it returns to where it was then it is working. It might not look like it is doing anything but it will move just a bit as needed to keep your stove seeing the same draft so long as the chimney has that much draw or more. That way your air inlet setting will always have the same effect. Without the baro the stronger the chimney draws the more air will enter the inlet at the same setting. Shaking the ashes down makes a difference too, but at least the baro limits the changes due to draft. It was money well spent.

Bruce

Hello,
I am new to burning coal. Just picked up a hitzer 3095 for my single story ranch. I do have a baro installed. I am currently burning nut size blaschak. I have my ash pan vents looking like a half moon. My back heat dial set at 5-6. It's warm out. I can only get about 6-7 hours before I get a ton of ash buildup almost killing the fire. It's taking me about 1 hr each day to nurse it back. Any ideads as I am getting slightly frustrated. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Hotrodcorvette1976 wrote:I get a ton of ash buildup almost killing the fire

It sounds like inadequate draft, or not enough shaking down of the ash.

Try sealing up the baro by putting aluminum foil over it, and see if that helps. If it does, then perhaps your baro is adjusted wrong. Was it set with a manometer? If it has a scale for the adjusting weight, where is it set on the scale?

When you shake down the ash, you may have to poke through the grates (from underneath or above) to help clear the ash. After shaking down, you should see a red glow from under the grates over a goodly portion of the grate area. If not, continue shaking and/or poking until you do.

Pictures of your stove and piping, and a description of your chimney, would be helpful to us.

I have the same stove and you will get the hang of it. Tonights one of the nights when its taking forever for my stove to get going. These things do not like warm temps. dont sell it just try nut coal,when I got the stove the dealer told me burn pea but nut works much better. I will say this,there are days I want to sell mine to but I get over it.The good out ways the bad.

Thank you so much for your thoughts. I did not set the baro with a manometer. I have it on the side labeled "verticle" I think 1.5/2 notches from the front. I will try the aluminum foil tomorrow when I get home as I am working tonight. Being new to this and hearing horror stories of people shaking to much, possibly I'm being too careful when I shake. I say that because tonight after my 1.5 hours to get it hot again I gave it a few good wraps and for the 2nd or 3rd time only I see the ash pan reflecting that orange glow from under the stove. I also get worried poking too much as I hear that's not too good either. I've only Been shaking down and poking when I see the "blue ladies", please correct me if I'm wrong. I will try asap to get some pics up here. However this minor inconvience still outweighs everything about burning wood. Thanks a bunch for your help and I'll keep you up to date.

Hotrodcorvette1976 wrote:I also get worried poking too much as I hear that's not too good either.

You will read stuff that says, never poke or stir a coal fire. Bull crap. You DO have to make sure you have plenty of red coals burning, three or four inches deep is good, or you can lose your fire. I have to thoroughly stir up the bed every two or three days, to get more ashes to drop through the grate, or so much ash builds up that I can hardly keep the fire going. Your stove is hopper-fed, and mine isn't, so I'm not sure what to advise -- presumably your coal bed never gets down low like mine does, so maybe you can only poke from the bottom. You can probably get better information from Hitzer owners if you start a new thread titled something like "Need help with Hitzer 30-95".

Hotrodcorvette1976 wrote:Hello,
I am new to burning coal. Just picked up a hitzer 3095 for my single story ranch. I do have a baro installed. I am currently burning nut size blaschak. I have my ash pan vents looking like a half moon. My back heat dial set at 5-6. It's warm out. I can only get about 6-7 hours before I get a ton of ash buildup almost killing the fire. It's taking me about 1 hr each day to nurse it back. Any ideads as I am getting slightly frustrated. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

I know that many with this stove partially open the ash pan vent. I don't know why since the stove has a thermostat and opening the ash door vent bypasses the thermostat control and can lead to over firing. Try keeping it closed.

Why not just set the thermostat for the heat output you want and leave it that way, only touching it when you want more or less heat? As the charge of coal burns the thermostat will gradually open more to maintain the heat setting as the coal burns to exhaustion. When it is time to shake, the thermostat will have automatically opened the air shutter fairly wide. The new coal from the hopper will be very hot and should ignite very quickly. Top off the hopper after you shake. Poke the obvious dead spots. If the stove will take pea, try it for a longer burn.

I don't have this stove but what I have outlined above is how a stove with thermostat and hopper should work. I also remember a thread that mentioned an extra plate behind the air door on the newer Hitzer stoves that some felt restricted the air too much and they removed it. You might try the search function to find the thread.

Guys,
Thanks so much for all the quick responses. I will try leaving the ash pan vents closed and adjust my temp strictly from the rear dial. I understand what your saying and feel dumb by not already trying it. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks again.