WMO-1 Safety Switch Install on Natural Draft Pocono

Was thinking of installing the Fields WMO-1 200 degree F safety switch on the lower rear body of a natural draft top vent Pocono (no powervent). This is being considered even though the pipes are mostly always clean, just concerned about backdraft on those warmer days with three doggies upstairs. Until I train them to know what to do if the stove looses draft, the switch may be a consideration.

In normal (good draft) operation the switch's design pulls air thru a slot into the stove via a ~1/2" ID pipe, this suggesting I'm loosing a bit of negative draft in the body. My operating draft is always .04 ~12" above the stove's top plate on cold days and even then the baro flap is tilted open suggesting there is at least ~ .06 draft or maybe a bit more. ;>

Before I put a 3/4" installation hole in the Poke, is there data that suggests my body draft loss will not be appreciably affected by the switch's install ? Just a bit concerned how this switch affects the understood recommended ~.02 min draft in the body with the combustion fan on. I'm thinking everything should be ok but just wanted to check with you guys regarding some real experience with the WMO-1 installed on a non powervent install.

Thanks

Ugly

I don;t think it would be a problem, you just may have to adjust the baro and combustion blower to compensate, if at all. I may not even make a noticable difference with the hole.

On the subject of a WMO-1 on a naturally aspirated stove, no problem, just need to keep an eye on the hopper lid for any sign of moisture indicating that the stove over fire pressure is too high (too low a number numerically, like in the -.01" WC or lower range).

I see no problem with installing a WMO-1, just be alert to signs of improper stove pressure and draft.

Wondering about all of this. Would a natural chimney be more efficient than my SWG. So two Pokos (110s) side by side into one outside Chimney. Please no lectures about x feet above the roof as this does not apply to my install really. How long the chimney? and if I join them the diameter? Hat design? Or even two stoves into one 4"SWG - I know they are only rated for 180,000 BTU but the one I have is barely on.

Thx again.

Draft is draft. Weather you are pulling it with a natural chimney or Power vent. You will maintain a certain draft on the appliance via the baro damper settings.
less electric/noise without a power venter.

A Power venter is used if you do NOT have a tall enough chimney/draft or a chimney at all.

I have one of each and don't notice any difference in the stoves or burning.

..but doesn't the SWG settings vary from ticking over to b*lls to the wall settings. Does a chimney deal with that variability better? Why is LL now supplying baros with the stoves if not to counter this variability ? Do I lose less hot air with one or the other? Is it worth trying to recapture somehow? So little time - so much to learn and I need to keep saving as much as I can. God, with all the hot air coming from two SWGs I could run a Stirling engine.

Lots of great ideas here. WNY's and Matt's informative comments on the WMO-1 draft effect temporarily dissolved my brain lesion to think that to simulate the WMO install, I'll create a temporary sheet metal plate with a 1/2" ID hole that fits over the top door opening. Hole can be opened & closed. We can they see how the draft is affected on a cold day and on a warm day, all this can be done before that nasty hole is installed in my lovely virgin Pocono.