Dwyer Mark II Manometer

Just got a Dwyer Mark II Manometer off of EBAY. Looks brand new, parts are in a sealed plastic bag and all. Problem is, no instructions. How do I use this thing?

heres the instructions

Got a manometer - now what


next time wel'l try and respond quicker.....

You can probably go to the DWYER site (OR GOOGLE IT) and download instructions.

here some too.

http://www.emssales.net/uploads/dwyer_m ... ctions.pdf

Also, read the thread on MANOMETER INSTALL for more help too.

manometer install

Here is the short version....

You need to tap a fitting into your flue pipe below your baro damper. Attach copper tubing or brake line (something that won't melt) into this fitting. Get an adapter from the copper or brake line to the rubber tubing that comes with the manometer.

To zero the manometer, turn the knob all the way to the left and count the revs you turn the knob to the right until you hit the stop. Now turn it back 1/2 the number of turns to get it in the middle (approx.). CAREFULLY fill the port with the red liquid, don't overfill. Mount the manometer so it it level using the on-board bubble. Without the tubing connected turn the knob until the red liquid is on zero. Get a good healthy fire going as you normally would and get to your normal fire level.

Connect the flue tubing to your manometer on the low port side. I connected a short piece of tubing on the hi port and looped it down just so dust wouldn't get into that port. Take your reading and adjust your baro weight to get to your desired draft based on your stove and your chimney.

too slow a typist...I see others have already helped!

the instructions photo in the above link are the ones provided by the manufacture and are included with the unit. feel free to read the whole thread and ask any questions.

most folks here use that unit!

Poconoeagle wrote:heres the instructions
Got a manometer - now what
next time wel'l try and respond quicker.....

Yeah, try to be a little quicker!
Having to wait a whole minute is really a drag

A side story...
The other day I put something up for sale online,
and it went in FOUR MINUTES.
Thought it would NEVER sell!!

titleist1 wrote:You need to tap a fitting into your flue pipe below your baro damper. Attach copper tubing or brake line (something that won't melt) into this fitting. Get an adapter from the copper or brake line to the rubber tubing that comes with the manometer.

Connect the flue tubing to your manometer on the low port side. I connected a short piece of tubing on the hi port and looped it down just so dust wouldn't get into that port.

My setup is very similar, maybe pics help..

Just look in the Manometer Install Thread to see how people have them hooked up.

JUST BE CAREFUL filling it, it can over fill quite rapidly! Put a little in at a time and let it fill up, once you get it close to zero, STOP, then adjust the ZERO knob.

Tube;

If you have a radio controlled hobby store around, you can get a short piece of their silicone rubber fuel tube that works just fine at the temps we see.

I just installed my Dwyer Mark II yesterday. The little hardware store uptown only had the right size line in aluminium, so that's what I used. Between the damper and the stove I drill a 1/4" hole and inserted the aluminium line. So the aluminium will be exposed to the flue gasses. Anyone see problems with using aluminium tubing? I see everyone else is using copper or steel. Will the flue gasses be too hot for the aluminium? Thanks in advance!

I seriously do not think it will stand up to the environment. I used standard brake line from the auto parts store. The tubing from Dwyer fit right on it, and it is steel and stood up to the stove just fine. I did not do any fancy fitting. The brake line fit right in the holes already drilled in the collar on the stove, so the pickup for the manometer doubles as one of the attachments of the stove pipe to the stove.

One tip: When adding the red oil... add slowly. It's easy to add a few drops more, but a pain in the butt to remove any!

Gosh... my buddy Charlie has a fairly long stove pipe.... perhaps 9 feet. He put the Dwyer rubber tube IN THE PIPE! I laughed saying it wouldn't last a week... that was 3 yrs ago & it still hasn't melted.

Here's what you can do on a budget:

Automotive hose on a brass nipple .. with a little Permatex Ultra Copper RTV (good to 700° intermittently):



BEWARE .... the Watcher of the Manometer

Got the dwyer all set yesterday, ty everyone for the info. Even after reading all the red oil warnings and being carefull still put in too much first time I used brake line.

Question:
Since the chimney acts as a vacuum would bending the breakline tip thats in the stack slightly upwards give a better reading?
I found that bending up or down i get different readings. or should it just be straight?

I'm getting a .03 hooked up to the low when the blower is off and .06 when the blower is on. When the blower is on the damper is full open. Should i add extra weight to keep it under .04?

My stack temp is at 200F without the blower, rises to 375F when the blower goes on.

Comments, suggestions appreciated.
VB

It should run about .04 under a good burn and as long as you have enough draft .02-.03 on idle, you should be good.