Venting A Russo C55 to a Fireplace(CAN IT BE DONE?) Im cold!

PostBy: Jash On: Wed Feb 21, 2007 4:08 pm

The stove ran at 450* solid with the ash door open all the way and the placement of a fan in front of the opening. Without the fan and the door and flu wide open temp dropped down to 300* then to 125* by morning.

I still had a nice glow of coals in the center of the pile and everything else was burnt.
things are moving in the right direction however,
Tstove mentioned:
I can get my c55 up to 6 or 700 degrees if I'm not carefull.


Well i can comfortabily say my stove cant get any where near those temps as things are right now which leads me to a thought......

When I picked up the stove from the seller, my buddy and I turned the stove upside down, so the top of the stove was on the plate of the two wheel dolly we used, hauled it home in my pick up upside down on it's top, it was full of ash and coal chunk's....I'm thinking the air ways in the stove going to the flu pipe may have a partial restriction of ash or something in them.

I went home at lunch today to closed it down and cool it off, ill tear it down and vac out/clear everything I can get to see it that has a positive effect.

BtY I used you guy's idea abouts tarting the fire using Match Light That little trick works great!
Jash
 

Russo C35 update

PostBy: Jash On: Thu Feb 22, 2007 10:32 am

Hi all,
Your advise has worked really well , last night I tore apart the stove and cleaned out every square inch. I built a nice bed of hot coals using match light to get it going. I also took LsFarm's advice :notworthy: and closed my hand damper about 1/4 of the way and had the ash door open.
The result .....550*and climbing this stove's first time ever since I got it BELTING OUT HEAT LIKE CRAZY!! (finally I'm starting to think like a coal burning Jedi!..Not Wood)...lol I actually started to get a little concerned when I saw the stat on the flu pipe climbing towards the 625* marker (the stat is marked OVERBURN ZONE at 600* to 900*) the stat is located after the damper and to top it all off it was warm outside 40* yesterday.

I did bank the coal new stuff piled to the top of the brick sloping to the front of the stove where I could still just see red glowing coals through a layer of new pea coal on top. That hint worked real good thanks coaledsweat:headbang:

tstove, I have to retract my earilier comment

i can comfortabily say my stove cant get any where near those temps as things are right now


I was way off on that one My stove can and will get That hot and quick too!

Like most things in life, the machine will do whatever the operator instructs it to as best as it can with a " :newb: " at the controls not having a clue as to what they should be doing

I'm picking up 10 bags of "NUT" coal this weekend going to give it a try.
A buddy of mine mentioned he burned it, that it burns considerably hotter then pea coal and is a bit eaiser to control (snuffing out the bed of coals).

he also mentioned that a coal fire is much hotter then a wood fire, one of the reasons power co's like PSNH use it for power generation among other reasons.

O' yeah I was able to run the stove with the ash door shut and the vent open and the damper closed 1/3, I did have a small fan blowing into the open vent though.

Found burning coal this morning. I put a hod in at 9:00pm. last night was still burning at 5:30 this morning an 8 hour burn, stat was down to 130* (cold), fire came back up with a little maintenance. threw another hod in, shook it down, came to work. The Mrs. said stat was at 400* when she checked it at 7:00

so far so good..... 8)
Jash
 

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Thu Feb 22, 2007 10:45 am

You should have better luck with the nut, pea is kind of small for a hand fired unit and could be some of your problems. You may even want to try some stove coal when it gets real cold, that will belt out some serious heat.
My boiler has a draft blower and I shut the hand damper almost completly when I'm done with the shake and reload.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea


PostBy: LsFarm On: Thu Feb 22, 2007 12:00 pm

Hi Jash, sounds like you are climbing the learning curve very well. A sucessfull all night burn is the target.

About the hand damper, a bit of caution: make your adjustments when you are awake and near the stove for several hours. Don't try a new setting on the flue damper just before going to bed. Closing the flue damper down too much can result in Carbon Monoxide leaking out of the stove into the house. Can be DEADLY.

Have CO detectors, and make any damper adjustments that are closing down the air flow in the flue several hours before heading to bed, so you can watch the stove and flue temps.

Just a word of caution. Safety first!!

Greg L

.
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

PostBy: Jash On: Thu Feb 22, 2007 1:28 pm

Thanks Greg,
For the good info and the vote of confidence.

Being I hooked my C35 into a fireplace/chimney shared with the boiler in the basement (which doesn't turn on except to make hot water for the sinks,washing machine, and bathtub now!),
and the fact I've never hooked up a coal stove in my life,
and I'm obsessed with my family's comfort and well being, the first thing I did was go to Home Depot and buy a plug in Co2 detector it's located five feet to the right of the stove.

When I made my damper changes it was 6:00 I didn't hit the rack until 10:00
I had a good 4 hours of monitoring the changes before I was comfortable enough with them to sack out.

I just need to figure out how to keep the stove hot till morning :-k

I'm going to post a question on the general board any insight would be much depreciated

Thanks
Joel
Jash