Stove Temp

I see allot of you guys saying your stack temp is over 500 degrees. I have a franco belge stove and have a Mag thermometer on the stove pipe about 6 inches out of the stove and at a medium setting of 4 ( 1-8 is the scale) my temp runs about 200-225. I have another therm. on the front that reads about 175- 200. I currently burn about 40- 50 lbs per day at this setting. does this sound right? and is that all this stove is capable of. According to the owners ,manual says not to run at 6 for more than 1 hour as it may warp things. I have used an infrared to check temps and I get the same as what the mag thermos get. when I point in through the window it goes off the scale on the infrared. (550 is the max ) currently the stove does heat fairly well however when the temps really get low as they are now (below 20) I cannot get my house above 70. ( The wife likes it 72) Just wondering if I am doing something wrong or that is all I can get out of it. Any info is greatly appreciated ..

God Bless

try feeding it some more air from underneath. that will make her burn warmer

gitrdonecoal wrote:try feeding it some more air from underneath. that will make her burn warmer

Not sure I understand??

Your Stove and stack temps are right on target. I have never seen a 500* stack temp on a anthracite coal stove. The two stoves we are burning have temps of 400*-450* body temp. Stack temp 240*-275* before the baro. After the baro the stack temp is 135* to 170*. We are burning about 65#-70# of Nut Anthracite a day.

PC 12

Some of us are using internal temps, some external, we should always say which is being used.

Bk

bksaun wrote:Some of us are using internal temps, some external, we should always say which is being used.

Bk

My temps are external with infrared and magnet.

PC 12

Stove temp pics.......

I gave up on both the stack temp and the stove top temp reading about 10 days into my first full month of burning. (1 month anniversary yesterday) Right now I have my magnetic thermometer hanging off of the front edge of the top of the stove and it is measuring the temp of the blower air as it comes out of the chamber into the room. The bi-metal coil is directly in the air stream.

I have found that for me it is a more accurate way of running my stove. I have been able to crank it down to a low of 225 during our recent warm spell while still having enough of a draft to keep burning. Today with the arctic blast coming down and outside temp around 20 right now my air is coming out at 400 or so and has been all day. I did open the draft controls early this morning and ran it up to 500 for a little while to bring the fire up prior to loading coal but then settled it back down. What I have found most amazing about this experience is how the smallest movements of the under fire air controls can change the blower air temp. I can swing it 100 degrees either side of 400 easily. What I would really like is to know how much air is actually moving through those small slits.

John

mplynn64 wrote:

gitrdonecoal wrote:try feeding it some more air from underneath. that will make her burn warmer

Not sure I understand??

The amount of heat a coal fire generates is determined by the amount of air that moves up and through the fire - the more air moving up and through the coal bed the hotter the fire. If you open your under fire air source more, you will generate more heat. You should be able to get the couple of degrees more you want with no problem. Try running at 5 rather then 4 for a while. I'm not familiar with your stove but I would generally think that you should be able to burn with a 400* stove top or front temperature with no fear of overfiring. On my Mark II that puts me at 80* room temperature. You need to mess around with your stove’s under fire air valve and see just what it can do safely. You will know when you are reaching its limits by the immense heat and unique orange glow. If you want to cool things of quickly, add more coal and turn your under fire air feed down. Watch your stove top or front temps. I didn’t see that you are using a barro – if not you may want to consider one. That alone would allow you to keep more heat in your house rather then it going up the chimney. My stove runs at 400* stove front. My after barro temp is 200* so that’s an additional 200* + - degrees I’m keeping in my house. There are multiple postings of the use of barros on the forum. Getting one will save you heat and the amount of coal you have to burn to get that heat.

Are you keeping a log of any kind, I find that very helpful so I can refer back to it and not have to reinvent the wheel every time the something changes in the equation. Good luck, Lisa

lowfog01 wrote: .... I didn’t see that you are using a barro – if not you may want to consider one. That alone would allow you to keep more heat in your house rather then it going up the chimney. My stove runs at 400* stove front. My after barro temp is 200* so that’s an additional 200* + - degrees I’m keeping in my house. There are multiple postings of the use of barros on the forum. Getting one will save you heat and the amount of coal you have to burn to get that heat.

Where does the air come from that goes through your Baro?

Thanks all for all the responses.. mke sme feel batter about the stove.. What I have noticed is the colder outside temp the more the baro opens. Of course when it gets warmer out I sometimes have issue with loosing draft. I guess with out side temps below 20 my heat pump does kick on to keep hosue at 72... I do try to keep it at about 5 during th day when I am home and does keep the heat pump from running but overnight is another issue.. Thanks again all ..

God bless

Chuck_Steak wrote:

lowfog01 wrote: .... I didn’t see that you are using a barro – if not you may want to consider one. That alone would allow you to keep more heat in your house rather then it going up the chimney. My stove runs at 400* stove front. My after barro temp is 200* so that’s an additional 200* + - degrees I’m keeping in my house. There are multiple postings of the use of barros on the forum. Getting one will save you heat and the amount of coal you have to burn to get that heat.

Where does the air come from that goes through your Baro?

The baro pulls cooler air from your room allowing you to keep more of the heated air in your stove. Do a search on Baro dampers. There has been serveral postings on them in the past. Check out Air Flow and the Baro Dampener. Good luck, Lisa

DigicamLife wrote:I gave up on both the stack temp and the stove top temp reading about 10 days into my first full month of burning. (1 month anniversary yesterday) Right now I have my magnetic thermometer hanging off of the front edge of the top of the stove and it is measuring the temp of the blower air as it comes out of the chamber into the room. The bi-metal coil is directly in the air stream.

I have found that for me it is a more accurate way of running my stove. I have been able to crank it down to a low of 225 during our recent warm spell while still having enough of a draft to keep burning. Today with the arctic blast coming down and outside temp around 20 right now my air is coming out at 400 or so and has been all day. I did open the draft controls early this morning and ran it up to 500 for a little while to bring the fire up prior to loading coal but then settled it back down. What I have found most amazing about this experience is how the smallest movements of the under fire air controls can change the blower air temp. I can swing it 100 degrees either side of 400 easily. What I would really like is to know how much air is actually moving through those small slits.

John

Myself, I have the magnetic type thermostat on the exaust pipe only. It's strictly for safety. I run the stove so that I'm comfortable. If it feels a little cool, I give it a little more air. A little hot, I give it less air. Of course, that was the first winter after buying the stove. After that, I know where the stove runs best. I set my drafts, and forget about it. It's been a great stove(HITZER 50-93). But, as many of you know, I'm replacing it with a Kaa-2 boiler/hot water heat.

lowfog01 wrote:
Where does the air come from that goes through your Baro?

The baro pulls cooler air from your room allowing you to keep more of the heated air in your stove. Good luck, Lisa

I was sort of being a smart a##, Lisa...
I knew what you were getting at.
That said, I don't think the benefits are "quite" as big as is usually mentioned.
Certainly they are, if one cannot, or does not want to, control their stove themselves.
Or you have an incredibly unstable draft.
I just see so many answers to a host of questions that say "gotta have a baro",
and honestly, I just don't think it's always the case to solve every problem...
Especially when we read of a problem that is more closely related to LACK of draft.
The answer there is not "gotta have a baro"..

For one thing, you say it takes in cool room air.
That is true... to a degree.
It is cold air that you heated with your stove.
It's not like every time your baro opens, it saves that amount of heat.
The other consideration, is that all that air that you think comes from your room,
actually comes from outside....

Another thing to consider, is that if your stack pipe is 300*, for example,
that heat is going into your room. If you have a 5-6 foot section of pipe
to your thimble, that is a lot of surface area.
As much as one side of your stove.
Do you get more heat from your stove at 300, or 150?
These things have to be considered when thinking that every time
your baro opens it saves "all that heat"...
You can't just take the difference between your stack and stove,
and think you are saving "all that heat".

pc12-47E:

I see your running a Jotul 507. Is that the one Freddy had? At 359 F the Jotul is hardly working. If you really want to be impressed by the Jotul, push the stove up to a temp of 700 F. It will make you think you have reactor that is going critical, however, it is still well within its operating temp range. The Jotul can be fired up to a temp of 932 F according to the manual. My green Jotul runs at a temp of 650-700 F 24/7 while it is cold. My red Jotul runs at a temp of 450-500 F when it is this cold outside. Last night temp -18.5 F inside 2500 sq. ft. of space, temp 82 F . Last season the green Jotul ran at a temp of 800 F 24/7. I didn't have the red Jotul last season. The green Jotul has been burning continuously for the past 12 months. They are a great stove!

The snowman.