Homemade Firebox Please Review and Comment

 
BigGame
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Post by BigGame » Mon. Feb. 15, 2010 8:20 pm

Please review my pics and send feed back good and bad, thanks for all your help. My firebox is 24"wide 32"deep 36"tall my coal pit is 10" deep. My water jacket is 500 gal minus the firebox area I have 12" of water under my firebox and 24" above it and 12" on the sides. I will have a blower under the grates, and a blower for the heated secondary air system.
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cArNaGe
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Post by cArNaGe » Mon. Feb. 15, 2010 8:33 pm

What kind of coal?

Grates need to shake.

 
BigGame
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Post by BigGame » Mon. Feb. 15, 2010 8:36 pm

1" bit coal My flue is 8" round pipe.

 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Mon. Feb. 15, 2010 8:39 pm

That angled rectangle piece at the back of the firebox, is that backed up with water? If not, I believe it will disappear in a relatively short time. Anything steel in direct contact with a coal fire will need water behind it or firebrick in front of it to survive I would think. That has been my experience anyway.

 
BigGame
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Post by BigGame » Mon. Feb. 15, 2010 8:45 pm

It does have water behind it.

 
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rockwood
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Post by rockwood » Mon. Feb. 15, 2010 8:48 pm

BigGame wrote:1" bit coal My flue is 8" round pipe.
Will there be any firebrick?
Does the grate move/shake to remove ash?
Why do you want to use 1" (stoker coal)?

 
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009to090
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Post by 009to090 » Mon. Feb. 15, 2010 8:49 pm

Nice. Whats the grate made from? Looks like a street culvert drain/grate.


 
BigGame
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Post by BigGame » Mon. Feb. 15, 2010 8:52 pm

No firebrick, The grates slide front to back, My uncle owns 3 coal mines I have unlimited supply of stoker coal.
Thanks.

 
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Post by BigGame » Mon. Feb. 15, 2010 8:55 pm

The grates are a street drain grate 2 1/2" thick

 
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rockwood
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Post by rockwood » Mon. Feb. 15, 2010 9:07 pm

Have you thought about putting a stoker in it instead of being handfed? Or at least design it so a stoker could be shoved in it in the future.

 
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SMITTY
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Post by SMITTY » Mon. Feb. 15, 2010 9:07 pm

Don't think you'll have to worry about warpage, that's for sure!

I think you might have problems with clinker buildup. My Harman grates have sharp edges that match the opposing grate, but then tilt in the same direction when you move the shaker handle -- one side goes up, the other goes down. It creates a grinder of sorts, to grind up any large pieces that may block airflow.

A stoker would eliminate that whole issue altogether.

 
BigGame
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Post by BigGame » Mon. Feb. 15, 2010 9:19 pm

rockwood wrote:Have you thought about putting a stoker in it instead of being handfed? Or at least design it so a stoker could be shoved in it in the future.
I would love to install a stoker, im really not sure where to find the parts, and what I need to do to install it.

 
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Post by tsb » Mon. Feb. 15, 2010 9:38 pm

It's been my experience that home made stoves are fun to
think about, fun to build, but usually a disappointment. Stove
manufactures have made all the mistakes years ago. Unless
you copy a proven design, you probably won't be satisfied with
the results. Your limitless supply of coal may be your saving grace.
Even if your stove is not very efficient, the fact that the coal is free
will save the day. Good luck with your project. Make sure it is an
open system with no chance of creating pressure or you might make
a bit powered steam bomb.

Tom

 
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rockwood
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Post by rockwood » Mon. Feb. 15, 2010 10:31 pm

BigGame wrote:
rockwood wrote:Have you thought about putting a stoker in it instead of being handfed? Or at least design it so a stoker could be shoved in it in the future.
I would love to install a stoker, im really not sure where to find the parts, and what I need to do to install it.
Click on this link to see a cut away showing an underfed stoker in a boiler.
http://activerain.com/image_store/uploads/1/4/3/0 ... 950341.jpg
Used stokers can be found from time to time. You can buy new ones from WillBurt but they are pricey.
**Broken Link(s) Removed**I don't know how common stokers are where you are located but I saw 3 come up for sale this past year near me that would have been perfect for your boiler.

 
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Post by LsFarm » Mon. Feb. 15, 2010 10:34 pm

I don't think you want a full 12" of water around your firebox unless you are going to put a circulation pump to move the water around. The water will stratify and not heat all the way through. If you keep the water circulating it wil heat better. I put in turbulance generators in my water jacket of my 'Big Bertha' boiler to keep the water from stratifying.

I'm not sure you will get much heat from the area below the firebox, since you have to have the grates and and ashpan between the fire and the waterjacket. I think you can skip the water jacket below the firebox.. I'd put in an extra deep ashpan instead.

Make sure you install some form of shaking mechanism for the grates.. unless you plan on letting the fire die out every two days or so to remove the ashes.

Greg L


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