Furnace cement cracks and falls out.

BillMarti wrote:I think I'll try the silicone on the base but I don't want to seal the lower 3 plates as of yet. I want to reverse my feed assy. to the right hand side and purchase one of them plastic silos that is used to convert veggie oil to diesel fuel it'll hold a little over a ton. I want to thank you guys once again for coming through on another PITA problem.

Thanks guys
Bill S.

If you plan on using the unit I would seal the plates keeps air out from screwing up the draft and the gases from coming out into you home Carbon monoxide sulfur killing you

whislienut,

I was also taking that caulk into consideration for a more permanent fix but knowing it doesn't harden makes it a little better suited for this application. Thanks for the input I think it'll also be easier to remove for maintenance.

coal berner wrote:

Pa Dealer wrote:You cant go wrong using high-temp silicone. Not only for fume containment but it will really keep the dust down also, have done it for alot of people. Border putty no matter what kind always cracks eventually.


R.Y

It keeps air from leaking out of these units they must be air tight to run correctly Also more important like you said keeps the carbon monoxide gases & sulfer smell from leaking out

#1 The EFM is not airtight nor does it need to be to work. Too much air from a bad gasket or whatever will cause loss of heat up the chimney but it won't cause a CO emergency. #2 if you have CO leaking out from the base check your chimney for a restriction or fly ash buildup int he back of the boiler. Also how long is the coal pipe, a short pipe will cause CO to draft out of it if there's not too much coal covering the auger. I can open the fire door and the ash pan door on my EFM and no CO escapes because my chimney is sucking the fumes out. If your chimney doesn't have the proper draft you must fix it. #3 If you do need to reseal the base you must lift off the boiler, scrape all the old putty off, clean it with alcohol or thinner or something and then apply new putty and set the boiler back on the base.

I think if you fix your chimney draft problem your other problems will go away.

e.alleg wrote:

coal berner wrote:

Pa Dealer wrote:You cant go wrong using high-temp silicone. Not only for fume containment but it will really keep the dust down also, have done it for alot of people. Border putty no matter what kind always cracks eventually.


R.Y

It keeps air from leaking out of these units they must be air tight to run correctly Also more important like you said keeps the carbon monoxide gases & sulfer smell from leaking out

#1 The EFM is not airtight nor does it need to be to work. Too much air from a bad gasket or whatever will cause loss of heat up the chimney but it won't cause a CO emergency. #2 if you have CO leaking out from the base check your chimney for a restriction or fly ash buildup int he back of the boiler. Also how long is the coal pipe, a short pipe will cause CO to draft out of it if there's not too much coal covering the auger. I can open the fire door and the ash pan door on my EFM and no CO escapes because my chimney is sucking the fumes out. If your chimney doesn't have the proper draft you must fix it. #3 If you do need to reseal the base you must lift off the boiler, scrape all the old putty off, clean it with alcohol or thinner or something and then apply new putty and set the boiler back on the base.


I think if you fix your chimney draft problem your other problems will go away.

It's true that a working chimney does put negative pressure on the boiler to remove fumes, but clogged up chimneys and low draft days (hot humid day in the summer with no breeze) or when somebody forgets to close the ash door completely it is best to have the boiler sealed to the base. To reseal the boiler to the base, you do not have to lift the boiler up, simply remove the jacket, vacuum the joint between the boiler and the base to suck out dust and loose pieces of old boiler putty, the pieces of boiler putty that don't come out leave in and seal the whole edge with a high temp flexible caulking also seal the side and rear panels of the base. This will also help dust migration. I have resealed many of these units for people and there was definately less dust.




ry

e.alleg wrote:

coal berner wrote:

Pa Dealer wrote:You cant go wrong using high-temp silicone. Not only for fume containment but it will really keep the dust down also, have done it for alot of people. Border putty no matter what kind always cracks eventually.


R.Y

It keeps air from leaking out of these units they must be air tight to run correctly Also more important like you said keeps the carbon monoxide gases & sulfer smell from leaking out

#1 The EFM is not airtight nor does it need to be to work. Too much air from a bad gasket or whatever will cause loss of heat up the chimney but it won't cause a CO emergency. #2 if you have CO leaking out from the base check your chimney for a restriction or fly ash buildup int he back of the boiler. Also how long is the coal pipe, a short pipe will cause CO to draft out of it if there's not too much coal covering the auger. I can open the fire door and the ash pan door on my EFM and no CO escapes because my chimney is sucking the fumes out. If your chimney doesn't have the proper draft you must fix it. #3 If you do need to reseal the base you must lift off the boiler, scrape all the old putty off, clean it with alcohol or thinner or something and then apply new putty and set the boiler back on the base.

I think if you fix your chimney draft problem your other problems will go away.

Your barking up the wrong tree