"Summer" storage- Cleaning Coal Stove

LPS3 can be bought at local hardware stores, some Automotive stores too and online

It will still rust, the moisture in the air will still make it rust if not protected.

http://www.marvgolden.com/aircraft-supply/lps3.htm

http://www.lpslabs.com/product_pg/corro ... /LPS3.html

Is the heat exchanger replaceable? I know some furnaces are but am unsure about Keystokers.

My father in law has a Harman magnum stoker coal stove. To the best of my knowledge when he shuts it down every year he doesn't do any maintenance to it.

What should he do to take care of his coal stove at the end of each heating season?

brckwlt wrote:My father in law has a Harman magnum stoker coal stove. To the best of my knowledge when he shuts it down every year he doesn't do any maintenance to it.

What should he do to take care of his coal stove at the end of each heating season?

Brock, does he have an Owner's manual for it? Here it is. Theres a checklist in there, he should use. Looks like page 16 lists the Annual maintenance.
http://www.harmanstoves.com/doc/magnumstokerm.pdf

This is a great stove for your house. Can you talk him out of it? Tell him he needs a new one.

I doubt i can talk him out of it.

Its a great stove for his house too. I love going to my in laws, its always so warm and toasty.

I saved the pdf and ill ask him if he has the manual when we visit pa next time. thank you

When I asked the folks at Hitzer they answered that most people they know out there (Indiana) just clean out the firebox and flue real well. Nothing further.

I'll do at least that, and likely WD40 the interior (touching up the exterior in 1 spot with stove paint). Will get chimney swept too. It saw >7 cords of hardwood go up her skirt this past winter, then 2+ tons of anthracite.

I have a koker and I cleaned it all, painted the inside with 1200 degree Black velvet, disconnected the flue pipe, put a bucket of damprid in the bottom and a 60 watt light bulb...closed all doors, humidifier running next to it in the basement. Think this will do the trick!

Do you guys recommend disconnecting the interior stove pipe from the outside chimney for the summer?

I did because I wanted to be able to make my stove airtight over the summer. I closed off the stove exit vent with a pipe "end cap" and and stored everything inside the stove. I got the cap at Lowes. The stove should be airtight so I shouldn't have a moisture problem but I did put some damp rid in the stove,too. I also put an end cap on the chimney connector pipe at the wall, too. That way I don't have an opening to the outside in my family room. I think it looks nicer, too. Have great day, Lisa

end cap is a great idea...gonna pick one up, thanks!

i am gonna give "corrosion x" a try, after the end of season wash down.....its works well on aircraft

coaledsweat wrote:That would work, that's how we keep our welding rod dry.

Just reading this thread for the first time.
Coaledsweat: GREAT Idea! I hate it when I go to do some MIG welding, and the reel of wire is all corroded together, and won't feed. I'm going out the the barn and putting a light bulb inside the welder tomorrow!
Thanks!

LsFarm wrote:In addition to the washing with baking soda, a thorough wire-brushing, vacuuming, there is another idea that I heard just last night. He suggested buying some of the small buckets of moisture absorbant from Home Depot or Lowes, And sealing the flue with plastic and tape, the inlets to the blower motors, and seal the doors real well: make sure the door gaskets are complete, with no gaps.
Check out the LPS-3 product, it leaves a thicker, slightly sticky layer of oil that will stick on th esteel for months. It is designed for long term protection of ferrous metals.

Greg, that is almost exactly my Summerizing procedure:
1) empty all coal from hopper/pusher-bar area, preferably from burning it, until empty.
2) empty 'fines' tray and vacuum out fines from tray area.
3) Remove firebrick (DVC-500 only has 3)
4) Scrape/wirebrush combustion area & pot
5) Vacuum combustion area & pot
6) pull ash pan, pot clean-out, and draft motor cleanout
7) Scrape/wirebrush ash pan area
8) Vacuum ash pan area.
9) remove exterior stove pipe, and brush out.
10) brush out, then air-blow exhaust area from draft motor, to outside Wall Term
11) Wash hopper, combustion area, and ash pan area with baking soda/water mix (keep washing until baking soda stops foaming.) Let dry over night.
12) Spray EVERYTHING with LPS-3.
13) Throw a box of Dessicant in ash pan, and close stove up.
14) On the Wall term (outside) shove plastic bag in the exhaust vent and Cap, then tape over fresh air inlets.
I believe thats all, I'll update this list if I remember any other steps.

Yes, I use the LPS-3 on the snowblower, lawnmower, tractor, backhoe, kids bike chains, etc.... Good stuff

Being a newbie I'm a little hesitant to say anything about this topic. I feel like the cowardly lion standing in front of the great and powerful OZ. Well, here's what I was thinking I would do based on what we do in our machine shop. We chemically etch many of the parts to mark them. Its done with an electrolyte (acid ), a stencil and electrical current. These parts could sit on the shelf for months. In the past I've had lots of problems with rust because of the residual electrolyte left on the surface. Over time I learned that you can use all the oil you want and it wouldnt make any difference unless you use a neutralizer. Follow link http://www.martronics-corporation.com/price-list.htm You almost dont need any oil it works so well. As far as oil, I would recommend Rustlick. Kroil (it kreeps hence the name)might not be a bad choice either.
Thoughts?