LsFarm wrote:In addition to the washing with baking soda, a thorough wire-brushing, vacuuming, there is another idea that I heard just last night. He suggested buying some of the small buckets of moisture absorbant from Home Depot or Lowes, And sealing the flue with plastic and tape, the inlets to the blower motors, and seal the doors real well: make sure the door gaskets are complete, with no gaps.
Check out the LPS-3 product, it leaves a thicker, slightly sticky layer of oil that will stick on th esteel for months. It is designed for long term protection of ferrous metals.
Greg, that is almost exactly my Summerizing procedure:
1) empty all coal from hopper/pusher-bar area, preferably from burning it, until empty.
2) empty 'fines' tray and vacuum out fines from tray area.
3) Remove firebrick (DVC-500 only has 3)
4) Scrape/wirebrush combustion area & pot
5) Vacuum combustion area & pot
6) pull ash pan, pot clean-out, and draft motor cleanout
7) Scrape/wirebrush ash pan area
8) Vacuum ash pan area.
9) remove exterior stove pipe, and brush out.
10) brush out, then air-blow exhaust area from draft motor, to outside Wall Term
11) Wash hopper, combustion area, and ash pan area with baking soda/water mix (keep washing until baking soda stops foaming.) Let dry over night.
12) Spray EVERYTHING with LPS-3.
13) Throw a box of Dessicant in ash pan, and close stove up.
14) On the Wall term (outside) shove plastic bag in the exhaust vent and Cap, then tape over fresh air inlets.
I believe thats all, I'll update this list if I remember any other steps.
Yes, I use the LPS-3 on the snowblower, lawnmower, tractor, backhoe, kids bike chains, etc.... Good stuff