Purchase, Clean-Up, Repair and Installation of a Koker

I have been burning wood as my main heat for a few years and due to the large amounts of labor involved, I knew I wanted a coal stoker stove. I have an existing US Stove Hotblast 1537G as an add-on so I wanted a stoker that would basically replace it. I decided on a Keystoker Koker and found a used one and purchased it. It is pretty dirty but I figured for about half what a new one costs it would be worth it. Here are the as-bought pics.







Glass has a crust on it...



Needs cement...

Took the hopper off...



Looks like she got a little hot maybe?





I started pulling it apart and clean her up. Found one of the flue tubes to be totally plugged! I guess the guy who had it didn't know about proper maintenance. My plan is to get it all cleaned up and then move the Hotblast out and install the Koker over the summer.

Got a lot of fly ash and even a little left over coal all vacuumed out.



Grates are in great shape.



A little rust above the stoker.





Does the stoker mechanism need to be removed and repaired? It is bent and the fiber material is partly gone.

You have a real beauty there. Somebody had some wet coal looks like. Others will help with the restoration I'm sure, but you do seem on the right track. I'm just not familiar with the koker......yet, lol.

Was that the one Pennswoods? for a really good price?

I purchased a new Koker last year and it works fantastic! I did alot of research and this unit was the best and most reasonably priced for my needs. I connected it in parrallel to existing forced hot air heat pump duct system...I exhausted combustion gases thru the wall using factor power vent/single wall SST pipe versus a chimney...run the 1500 scfm supply fan continuously with a simple thermostat set at 72 degrees, this keeps the house comfortable at all times...used about 2-3/4 Ton of rice coal since firing off unit on Nov 4, 2009 until now...Heat about total 2800 SF cape cod basement/ 1st /2nd floor areas and each level is about the same temperature...clean the glass every now and then using a razor blade scrapper...I like everything about this unit since it is so simple and made well...The 1500 scfm supply fan was a little tricky to install since I needed to put 4 inch cement blocks under unit since my return duct needed to come into the unit from the left side versus the right...sprayed a coat of epoxy paint in the hopper to provide a little more corrosion protection...looked at the Alaskian unit, but was not made as well and cost significantly more, and then would need to buy a much more expensive power vent that would be connected exterior of the house versus Keystoker which sits inside the house on top of the furnace and is easy to clean and maintain...also like the additional two 4 inch diameter heat exhanger tubes that increases the efficieny of the unit by scrubbing the heat from hot exhaust gases before it goes out heating the world also could not believe the cheap small rectangular ash can that the Alaskian had.

anyway,

First I would contact the Keystoker factory in Skuylkill Haven Pa and ask their opinion and buy an operations manual...
I would replace the fans/motors with fresh new ones....the fire box gasket looks new...I would replace the woven gasket at the base of the hopper....repair bowed grate assembly...ensure all the holes are open and not plugged...wire brush and wipe clean rust and get a can of high temperature paint...clean the glass by first scrapping with a razor blade at about a 15 degree angle and then clean with a crud off solution....Test the unit outside and ensure the pusher paddles are working properly, would also consider replacing this motor also.

There manuals are now free on their website. They are starting to get on board with the net.

Thanks for the great pictures.I do not see anything there that simple tools,a little thought and determination will not overcome.Sounds like you got him at a good price and the best part is to come. Namely when he starts throwing heat for you. Mike

WNY wrote:Was that the one Pennswoods? for a really good price?

No. I got it from a tool and die shop in Syracuse, NY. Supposedly they had it 3 years and used it 2. The U/L tag says it was tested in 2003. I plan to contact the factory to find out what year it is and also find out what to seal the stoker mechanism to the fire box with.

2001Sierra wrote:There manuals are now free on their website. They are starting to get on board with the net.

I printed one out...someday they will update them from hand-drawn to Cad.

mr1x1 wrote:I would replace the fans/motors with fresh new ones....the fire box gasket looks new...I would replace the woven gasket at the base of the hopper....repair bowed grate assembly...ensure all the holes are open and not plugged...wire brush and wipe clean rust and get a can of high temperature paint...clean the glass by first scrapping with a razor blade at about a 15 degree angle and then clean with a crud off solution....Test the unit outside and ensure the pusher paddles are working properly, would also consider replacing this motor also.

I did plug it in and the combustion blower and feed motor work smoothly. The previous owner replaced the nylon cam with an aluminum one already. I did have to modify the mounting of the feed motor/gearbox as it was loose. I think some parts may have been missing. Should I paint the inside of the firebox with high temp paint? I do plan to clean up and paint the hopper as well any exterior parts that need it.

I will be installing a Coal-trol to this furnace and will be testing it outside before I install it in the basement.

Just in case you haven't seen this before, you may want to check this out:
My Koker and the Coal Trol Bad Combo?
Good luck with your restoration,
-Len

The biggest problem with coal stoves is when they are not operating since Moisture and sulfur = accelerated corrosion.

You should coat the inside of the firebox and then place a 60-100W light bulb in box to reduce relative humidity and driveout moisture in the air....At the end of the heating season I will vaccum and wipe clean inside of firebox and coat it with a high temp flat black paint...if you want to make absolutely sure you keep the inside moisture free, you can drive out the moisture by laying up the unit with a nitrogen blanket purge...if you want to be an extremist, a nitrogen blanket flowing about .5 scfh at a little above atmospheric pressure would do the trick...but this would require you sealing the unit gas tight and provide a inlet and outlet and a flow meter to measure nitrogen blanket purge flow. )

Pulled the stoker mechanism off and it's a good thing! The gasket is almost gone in places.

The stove itself looks ok...just needs a cleaning and paint.

Talked to Keystoker and got a lot of great info. This stove was built in November 2006 but was obviously not maintained. Once I get the parts, I will begin to put it back together. It will be ducted in series with my FA oil furnace with central A/C. I am looking to hire someone to do the duct work and posted that in the "Services for Hire" section.

Went to Canandaigua Coal and bought the gaskets needed. Also bought paint and furnace cement so I will be painting and putting back together later this week when it warms up. All the gaskets for $29! Seems cheap enough to replace them every few years if needed.

If anyone needs Keystoker parts...call John at Canandaigua Coal. If he doesn't have them, he'll ship!