Baro Opinion Overload

I think Chuck_Steak summed up what I think about baros after all the reading I've done last year and this year.

I have made progress with efficiency and my Hitzer 55.....I found with an accurate stove surface thermometer that I could run at 380 to 400*F and keep the area (basement) at 62*F and heat radiates up thru the floor for postive effects upstairs. Previous year I was running at 450 to 500* surface temp. I could use a second thermometer to monitor the exit pipe to the chimney. So I've burned less coal this year than last year for the same comfort level. My average is about 50 lbs per day.

I added a Magnehelic and found my draft runs consistantly at 0.05" water column with occasional spikes up to 0.10 so I am in the ball park there.

I do have a manual damper....run it about half....I still don't know if I really need it....have to wait for next year with a second thermometer on the flue pipe leaving the stove.

I hope I don't really need a baro, as my flue is shared with a wood stove upstairs and while I keep my chimney clean and hope I never see a chimney fire, a baro could be disasterous in the case of a chimney fire as it will feed all the air the fire wants while it is destroying your chimney.

As for talking to the wife....don't have one! I'm perfectly content with three dogs......LOL!

And let me echo that thought that this forum is tops for good info on coal burning!

Oh....and the ash door left open....a potential disaster....can happen to any of us! Don't forget the kitchen timer as one wise member posted.....carry it with you and go back to the stove when it rings....very important when you can't stay right at the stove (as we should) whenever the ash door is open.

Hi, for the manual damper, I did asked my insurance agent if it was possible to install that device inside the flue pipe and he told me that I cannot do so. That was before I learned I did not need any baro. with the Vigilant 11. I think it could be a good idea to ask before...
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what does some insurance company know about a baro ... ? nothing ... im sure they don't burn coal, me personally, I just do what I want. I have two baro's and love them both equally

Nortcan,
Why don't you need a Baro for your VC II?

brckwlt wrote:what does some insurance company know about a baro ... ? nothing ... im sure they don't burn coal, me personally, I just do what I want. I have two baro's and love them both equally

, I know that insurance company don't know anything about coal burning and I also know they are less fast to pay if you have a problem. I still think that it cost nothing to get informed, after you do what you want...

Smoker858 wrote:Nortcan,
Why don't you need a Baro for your VC II?

Hi, the Vigilant11 has a thermostat regulating the heat level by controlling the amount of combustion air entering the stove. The heat level is based on the setting of the thermostat lever and the strenght of the chimney's draft. It also have an internal damper, when the int. damper is closed smoke and heat are held in the stove longer. More heat radiates into the room and less heat going up the chimney. Vermont Castings do not recommend an in-flue damper.
As I wrote in other posts, I had alot of problems with the stove for the 2 first years but after some mofifs. (some minors other majors) the stove is more efficient and easier to use.
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If it ain't broke,don't fix it

freetown fred wrote:If it ain't broke,don't fix it

Hi, Your comment is for whom ?
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Why,you my friend

nortcan wrote:

freetown fred wrote:If it ain't broke,don't fix it

Hi, Your comment is for whom ?
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freetown fred wrote:Why,you my friend

nortcan wrote: Hi, Your comment is for whom ?
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Hi,thanks My Friend for the reply...but I think sometime we can try to improve something that is working. I don't recommand every one to do so but sometime it's important to do so. Nothing is perfect in this World so= everything can be improved...
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