When to Replace Stoker Stove Gaskets?

Hello, I have an Alaska Channing 111, its in its 3rd winter of service. I do plan on replacing the door (and window), and the ash pan door gaskets at the end of this season. My question is hopper gasket and other gaskets associated with the feeder system. They seem to be ok, really don't want to pull everthing apart if I don't have to. The manual says every three years gaskets should be replaced. Whats the practice you guys use with your stoves?

Usually when they wear out. Just replaced my gaskets on my LL HYfire, I think it was dated 1995, The hopper, burn plate, etc.. were pretty crispy. I had put new door gaskets on when I bought it (Used) about 3 years ago.

As long as they are soft, I would leave them alone, I don't use any on the hopper side, and I try to use minimum stove cement if any, especially on the doors, where I don't use any cement at all, the channel on the doors are close to a half circle,( Alaska models ) and the gaskets tend to stay there with nice flexibility if installed properly.

The one crtical part to use a gasket or cement, is the location between the burn grate and the back of the stove, you should block any air passage to prevent the fire from creeping back, otherwise you'll end up with a hopper fire. ( search hopper fire on this forun, you'll see my first posting with pictures ) hopper fires aren't fun.

I guess I have a peculiar outlook on this--I replaced my door & glass gasket on my stove last summer--around Dec. I noticed some hot spots.Of course I thought something drastic was going on I spoke w/ an older guy (can you beleive that??)who has my style stove, I told him what I had done maintenance wise & he told me to replace the rest of the gaskets,which I did HOT...His analogy was "would you only replace the brake pads on the right front of your truck???" My hopper & ash door LOOKED o.k. but after changing them,there was a definate improvement---point being--you're already there,git er done I'm sure this would apply to any style stove

Thanks for your advice!

the hopper gasket, IMO, should be the last gasket that needs replacing. WHile it gets hot, it stays the coolest and isn't exposed to the same environment extremes as the others. Proper install of the gaskets is very important. If you replace them all at once, you can forget about it for a couple/few years instead of having to reassess every year. But obviously, evaluating the gasket condition and placement every spring cleaning should still continue

Thanks , that makes sense. Never replacing gaskets I think I read somewhere here that you can buy gaskets with adhesive on one side to make the job easier. Anyone recall that post?

Hi, I'm new here and I've been having trouble with a slight sulfur smell. I'd like to change my gaskets but the place where I bought my stove wants $170 to change the gaskets. I watched videos and read forums on changing gaskets and am fairly mechanically inclined. The only problem is I can't find anywhere what size and length of gaskets to purchase. Any help would be very much appreciated

Nighthawkgt21 wrote:Hi, I'm new here and I've been having trouble with a slight sulfur smell. I'd like to change my gaskets but the place where I bought my stove wants $170 to change the gaskets. I watched videos and read forums on changing gaskets and am fairly mechanically inclined. The only problem is I can't find anywhere what size and length of gaskets to purchase. Any help would be very much appreciated

If the stove is operating at the proper draft, you should not be getting any sulfur smell even if gaskets are slightly worn. Check your pipes and draft. Do you see sweat on the hopper lid?

I really cleaned my stove pipes and vents inside the stove itself, I wanna see if that remedies the issue. So far neither my wife nor I have noticed any condensation.

Nighthawkgt21 wrote:I really cleaned my stove pipes and vents inside the stove itself, I wanna see if that remedies the issue. So far neither my wife nor I have noticed any condensation.

Should get a draft meter or manometer and verify to be safe. What kind of baro do you have. If it is the calibrated Fields controls it will at least give you an idea if you have enough. But not a 100% positive indication. Some dealers will rent or let you borrow one. Or you can find them pretty inexpensive. Search the forum lots of ideas.