Glacier Bay...Is It Worth Looking at?

 
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2001Sierra
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Location: Wynantskill NY, 10 miles from Albany
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90 Chimney vent
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Buderus Oil Boiler 3115-34

Post by 2001Sierra » Sat. May. 29, 2010 9:26 pm

A little bit of Bailey's would help with the analysis of your success as well. May the joy of coal heat be with you! :roll:

 
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offcoursey
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Location: Perkasie PA
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glacier Bay

Post by offcoursey » Sat. Jun. 19, 2010 5:07 pm

All painted and in the basement...

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kjun coal
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Post by kjun coal » Sat. Dec. 10, 2011 6:26 am

How did you set up your stove? I have the same stove and am having trouble keeping a good coal fire going. I have burned wood for many years, but I can't figure this thing out ! I have the old flapper style dampener. Should I take that out and put in a barometeric style? Any tips would be wonderful. Also I would like to get a blower. Is there an exact fit aftermarket blower, or do I need to make my own blower adapter mounting plate?

 
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offcoursey
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glacier Bay

Post by offcoursey » Sun. Dec. 11, 2011 9:05 am

Check your PM...
I only use a barometric damper and I didn't bother with a fan after I saw how expensive they were. The stove appears well built
and it has worked well so far.


 
tsg2009
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Post by tsg2009 » Fri. Feb. 08, 2013 8:00 pm

I also have a glacier bay insert but our fan just went out and I was trying to find out where I could get one for it.

 
dc dalton
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Post by dc dalton » Sat. May. 11, 2013 11:56 am

Found this thread in my search for parts for my stove. This is the exact model I have but it is free standing. I tried most of the links in this thread but since the thread is so old most of them are dead.

My question is does anyone know if there are any companies that still sell the banking plate for this. We have been using ours even though it is cracked in half (the two pieces still mated together) but after this year the plate is destroyed as a few pieces fell out of the cracked areas.

I called a couple of foundries last year about getting a new one made but their fees for the mold we outrageous. Figured I would start looking early this year in case it turns out to be a 'snipe hunt'

thanks

 
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carlherrnstein
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: combustioneer model 77B
Coal Size/Type: pea stoker/Ohio bituminous

Post by carlherrnstein » Sat. May. 11, 2013 2:32 pm


 
top top
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Post by top top » Thu. May. 16, 2013 9:16 pm

I just bought that exact stove for that same price. Go figure. It was in excellent condition and complete except for the books. Mine does not have any holes in the jacket for a fan, just the 1 1/2" X 20" slot on the bottom and a matching one on top. The stack connector accepts a crimped 8 inch pipe, no caulking needed.

I could block the bottom slot, cut a hole in the jacket and mount a squirrel cage blower. The blowers are readily available at places like Graingers. Instead of cutting holes in the stove jacket, I think I will build a sheet metal box that fits the bottom slot and mount the blower to that. Then when I need to replace the blower I don't need to worry about the hole size, bolt pattern, etc. My home made sheet metal box will be easy to modify or just replace.

If you don't have access to a break, an easy way to make the box is to cut out two pieces of sheet metal for the top and bottom, then cut some pieces of 1 3/8 square tubing or C-channel to form the perimeter. Put it together with screws or rivets, no welding required. Mine will be shaped like a meat cleaver, where the "blade" section fits inside the stove (of course there will not be any square tubing there so the air can get out of the box and into the stove) and the "handle" section will be offset and the blower mounted on top. Then I can open the ash door without contacting the blower. If the power goes down I can simply move the blower and let it work naturally.


 
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offcoursey
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glacier Bay

Post by offcoursey » Sat. May. 18, 2013 7:46 am

I did not put a fan on it and it has been doing most of the heating for the house all winter. The only repair I had to do was to have the bar that connects the grates repaired. I drilled out the old 'pegs' and had new ones welded in at a local shop. I also placed a brick under each corner to lift the stove off the ground. I keep the stove at 500* all winter and every once in awhile the oil burner will come on if it is below 20* out and windy. Saving a load of money on oil and the house is 70* instead of 63*! I mounted homemade ducts to the top of the stove to capture the heat that comes from between the top and the door. I ran the ducts to two seperate floor vent and cut in some return air vents at the other side of the house.

 
dc dalton
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Post by dc dalton » Sat. May. 18, 2013 9:49 am

carlherrnstein wrote:Check this place out http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/68/catalogs/Wood ... rence.html and here http://www.woodstoveparts.info/Gibraltar_wood_sto ... parts.html it appears that it might have been made by gibralter.
Thanks, they have a few but not the correct size. The one for this stove is 17" x 6.5"

 
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LsFarm
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Post by LsFarm » Sat. May. 18, 2013 10:40 pm

Build it out of steel, and put a layer of refractory on the fire-side of the plate.. just like the lining on an antique stove...

Or build it out of 1/2" thick steel plate, it will last a few seasons

Greg L.

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