manometer

manometer

PostBy: MT On: Mon Mar 26, 2007 10:13 pm

Hi. New member to this forum but been reading it for some time. Bought a LL Hyfire 110, same as Hyfire1, I think. Been using it for about 5 weeks. I installed it without a barometric damper. It has a straight pipe about 32" off the rear of the stove to a tee. I have about 10' of SS 6" flex going up my basement fireplace. Tried to get more heat out of the unit by installing a manual damper in the 32" pipe. Made no difference. My pipe coming out of the stove runs at about 230*and about 170* at the tee. The SS flex is about 125* right above the tee. These readings are with the coal running red to about 1" from the edge. Are these temps OK? I bought a manometer today. Where should I tap the pipe for the tube? Should I check it in more than one place?Thanks Mike.
MT
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Leisure Line
Stove/Furnace Model: HYFIRE 110

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Mon Mar 26, 2007 10:39 pm

The draft is usually checked at the chimney breech. It really isn't critical where, almost anywhere in the stack will work. I use a probe style thermometer at the elbow to the breech. When I want to read the draft I just slide it out and stick the tube in. A piece of steel brake line works well. You'll need to calibrate the manometer each time you use it as they are very sensitive to changes in atmospheric pressure.
If you are measuring the stacks temp on the surface of the pipe, it is a lot lower reading than what is at the center, it could be 100* higher there. That is why the anal retentive types prefer the probe ( :oops: ), it gives a more accurate reading.
I'm not familiar with the LL Hy Fire, you should double check with them about the barometric. I would always install one, but on some stoves with exhaust blowers, it can be very dangerous.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

PostBy: WNY On: Tue Mar 27, 2007 8:26 am

Are you temps on the outside or inside of the pipe.? They don't seem too bad.

What are your actual stove temps? the sides, the convection blower exhaust, etc...?

I use the following temp. probes, mounted in a screw hole and I have never seen over 270 Degrees on the inside of the pipe on the chimney without a baro damper. If your temps are external, they may be a bit high and you are loosing heat up the chimney.?

http://nepacrossroads.com/viewtopic.php?t=1577

Without a baro damper, your chimney could draw very well and pull more heat out of the stove, therfore, loosing the heat up the chimney, the damper will maintain a very constant draw on the stove depending on your settings.
WNY
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker, LL & CoalTrol
Stove/Furnace Model: 90K, Hyfire I, VF3000 Soon


PostBy: MT On: Tue Mar 27, 2007 9:58 pm

Thanks for the reply. I don't have a exhaust blower and the temps i took were on the surface of the pipes. I hooked up the manometer late last night and had a reading of .07 with the stove cranked up gut it wasn't very cold out.
Would this reading go up with colder temps out?
I guess it's to late in the season to play with this thing.
Jerry, do you still make a jacket for the HyFire 110? Are the jackets open on the bottom? Is the 110 the same as the HyFire 1? My blowers are 160 CFM each. Can I upgrade them to the 265 CFM units? Thanks for your help. Mike.
MT
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Leisure Line
Stove/Furnace Model: HYFIRE 110

PostBy: LsFarm On: Tue Mar 27, 2007 10:53 pm

Hi MT, Jerry is out of town untill the middle of next week. Post a question on the LeisureLine forum and he'll get back with you when he's back in town.

I do know that LeisureLine still makes the hot air jacket for the Hyfire models. It is open on the bottom, it is designed to have a duct fan pulling the air up through the open bottom and out a 12" or 14" duct.

I believe that the problem with not enough heat from your Hyfire I is from the fans pulling cold basement air off the basement floor. If you put some cold air returns ducted to the fan inlets so the stove is reheating warm air from the warmer parts of the house instead of cold air off the basement floor.

Take care, Greg L
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

PostBy: nwaelder On: Tue Mar 27, 2007 11:37 pm

You really should get a barometric damper. There really is no way to adjust the pressure in the stove without one.

Also, it serves as a very effective means to avoid hopper fires!
nwaelder
 

PostBy: WiPaul On: Tue Jun 05, 2007 2:44 pm

[quote="nwaelder"]You really should get a barometric damper. There really is no way to adjust the pressure in the stove without one.

Barometric damper, yuk! I have a 6" barometric damper between my smokeless wood furnace (http://www.lamppakuuma.com) and my 8" SS chimney liner. I say yuk, because the BD draws in cold air from every opening in my basement wall. (Sure I could install a 6" outside air intake with a Saskatchewan curve at the bottom; close to the furnace, but I have not yet).

Does the power vent system eliminate the negative draft in the home?
Paul in WI.
WiPaul