EFM 350

Wood'nCoal wrote:There's a mesh permanent filter in the furnace. It probably needs a cleaning. Last time I cleaned it I noticed writing on it recommending a spray that is supposed to be applied before the filter is reinstalled. I guess I should check the filter.

OMG that thing has to be SOLID with dust. I do mine every 2-3 months, and that is not enough.

Kind of an early X-Mas present to yourself and family. Do you have a good spot for milk and cookies for the jolly traveler?

I'll bet the entire team would like to warm up by the boiler. The wind has been about 35 mph here tonight, so I hope the GPS works well for your visit!
Poor Sting has been VERY bad and his avatar reflects his poor standing with the North Pole!!
Don't want to block your flue liner........ like his is going to be!

I did clean it last year sometime, it was bad. I'll have to address it!

I think I have a spray can of K&N oil, you can have, but I bet that wouldn't be too nice to be smelling inside the house

I think I'll pass on that! I was going to use some Pam (the cooking oil spray) but decided not to and reinstalled it dry.

Kind of an early X-Mas present to yourself and family. Do you have a good spot for milk and cookies for the jolly traveler?

Yep! It's 27° and breezy here, not as cold as last week, though.

The filter in the furnace is barely dirty. IIRC I cleaned it towards the end of last heating season. I'm going to add a disposable filter, there's a lot of air space in the reusable one.
I disconnected and capped the pipe to the oil-fired DHW unit. While I was nearby there was a call for heat. Bearing in mind it's 28° out and windy I was able to set the baro to hold the draft to -04" WC, and that big 8" RC is moving around quite a bit.
After 48 hours I think this EFM is handling the load easily...I think I'm in love with my boiler.
A big thank you to Scrapper and JC for their help and advice, also to forum members who have posted their suggestions.

DVC500 at last wrote:

Wood'nCoal wrote:The heat exchanger did reduce the air flow in the ducts a noticeable amount, but it seems to be working.

John, you may want to go up one size on your blower motor. If you have a 1/4 HP motor, go up to 1/2HP to overcome the induced blockage/back pressure caused by the Heat exchanger.
You'll find out how much extra strain is bing put on that motor by how long it takes to burn out.

I'm planning on making my HX removable. I've got a 16x18" unit on the way which is a wee bit bigger than I wanted as it will take a little more sheet metal work, but I wanted to minimize the airflow resistance as much as possible. Even yet, while heating flow shouldn't be a problem, A/C airflow WILL be a problem in the summer. My furnace runs the blower on medium-low for heat and fan, but high for A/C. But even on high it has a hard time pushing enough cold air to the second floor vents. It doesn't help that the vents are on the FLOOR, either. SO the cold air just hugs the floor and falls down the stairs to the first floor and then on to the basement (it's all open stairs).

So I'll just close off the ball valves, loosen the unions and pull out the HX and cap off the hole in the plenum for the summer.

Good idea, I can tell you for a fact that the heat exchanger has reduced the airflow. I would definitely remove it during A/C season. My duct system would not lend itself to A/C, the 2nd floor would never cool off. My only 2 returns are in the living room.

Wood'nCoal wrote:

markviii wrote:Everything but the liner size sounds good. 6x6" is tight for that volume of air.

4/4 with rice didn't give you an acceptable burn?

-Rob

Agreed, but changing the chimney size is not an option!
Didn't run rice, went with buck. Changing that is an option.

Well, Chris, we shall see. I don't know what HP the blower motor is. I do know that the furnace was starved for return air, there are only 2 ducts, both on the living room floor. That in itself was a strain on the motor, it may be working less now with the heat exchanger in place.

Motor is .12 / 1/8 HP - 1725 RPM. either 2.5 or 2.8 AMPS. No Need to change coal size Take foil tape and seal up the
joints on the duct work Thur out the basement and anywhere else you can reach & where they are leaking air

JC-Chris was talking about the blower motor in the oil furnace, not the motor on the stoker, but thanks for the info anyway.

Wood'nCoal wrote:JC-Chris was talking about the blower motor in the oil furnace, not the motor on the stoker, but thanks for the info anyway.

Yes and what is the size on your Oil furnace

Gotta take a look.

Too long!

I played both & my computer seized up! That's Verizon quality right there ...

Good deal, John. Looks mint!!

I can't watch them embedded anymore, there's just blank white squares there now.