Help Installin A 520

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JDerck
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Post by JDerck » Tue. Aug. 10, 2010 7:58 pm

I was looking to see if any one could give me some good advice on installing a 520 I got a manual but im not real sure on how to properly plumb and wire it .... looking for some good pictures on the plumb bypass and maybe some good pics on the wiring

 
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Sting
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Other Heating: OBSO Lennox Pulse "Air Scorcher" burning NG

Post by Sting » Tue. Aug. 10, 2010 8:29 pm

Check out this thread

Dual Boiler Plumbing and Wiring.

 
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CoalHeat
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Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
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Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert

Post by CoalHeat » Thu. Aug. 12, 2010 10:30 am

I'm moving this to the EFM section.


 
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stoker-man
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Hand Fed Coal Boiler: 1981 efm wcb-24 in use 365 days a year
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Post by stoker-man » Fri. Aug. 13, 2010 10:47 pm

Glad I could help !

 
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Sting
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Post by Sting » Fri. Aug. 13, 2010 11:29 pm

stoker-man wrote:See these pictures:
Stoker-piping1 copy.jpg
OK -- I don't mean to pick here -- but there must be some disclaimer.

Last season some handyman jerk-wagon was trying to insult me for mixing fittings on a low bid install that made use of what was on site.

Here your doing an install for factory propaganda and I count several types in a short vertical foot on that supply line
-- we have
- sand cast - Mal-able - Galvanized - Black - copper - bronze -

WTF :? The short nipple is already covered in rust from electrolysis. Your air scoop is too close to the nearest elbow for fault tolerant flow.

At least paint that stuff so it looks like all black!

Ok -- maybe I am picking......... :roll:

 
JDerck
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Post by JDerck » Fri. Aug. 13, 2010 11:50 pm

so what size copper did you use there ? I would like to get a better idea ... the guy I bought the boiler from was jack ryan... he kind of gave me his theory on the plumbing witch is very similiar ... minus the checkvalvles and all that.... so my expansion tanks actually runs into the feed?


 
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stoker-man
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Post by stoker-man » Sat. Aug. 14, 2010 6:15 am

The union leaked over a weekend when the fire went out and it cooled down. That's what caused the rust. Hasn't leaked since, but paint is a good idea. That galvanized tee is there because I needed one in a hurry and the supply house was about a week out and that's all I could get. There are no less than 20 auto air vents in the system, plus numerous manual vents. Air was never a problem from day one.

The return line is 1 1/2" at the first valve and reduces to 1 1/4" after the first valve.

You know how you look at something every day and don't even see it anymore? Now I see it.

 
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Yanche
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Post by Yanche » Sat. Aug. 14, 2010 10:32 am

Sting wrote:
stoker-man wrote:See these pictures:
Stoker-piping1 copy.jpg
OK -- I don't mean to pick here -- but there must be some disclaimer.

Last season some handyman jerk-wagon was trying to insult me for mixing fittings on a low bid install that made use of what was on site.

Here your doing an install for factory propaganda and I count several types in a short vertical foot on that supply line
-- we have
- sand cast - Mal-able - Galvanized - Black - copper - bronze -

WTF :? The short nipple is already covered in rust from electrolysis. Your air scoop is too close to the nearest elbow for fault tolerant flow.

At least paint that stuff so it looks like all black!

Ok -- maybe I am picking......... :roll:
Wow. Looks like it was a design contest, build it out of what's left over in the plumbing truck. I'm with Sting on this one. Just offensive to my engineering mind. Design it right, build it once.

 
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cArNaGe
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Post by cArNaGe » Sat. Aug. 14, 2010 10:51 am

I used black pipe. Wrong or Right it works good for my needs. It was brought up that I should have turned the two T's so I could rod out the vessel.

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