Got the Hitzer 50 93 Running Today

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RLB112
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Post by RLB112 » Sat. Oct. 16, 2010 8:24 pm

well I got the hitzer 50 93 up and going today. no issues followed the direction on here and presto its runnin. my question is that the local coal stove dealer said that I didnt need a damper, im kinda thinking I do. the pipe is almost as hot as the stove. im gonna add a manual damper tomorrow because my pipe is on an angle running up to the hole in the wall. I don't think I can run the baro ddo to the fact the pipe isnt straight up and down. what do you guys think?

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Sat. Oct. 16, 2010 8:54 pm

I think that most of us that have the 50-93 go with the M D--I'm sure you'll get plenty of feed back on this one :)

 
mason coal burner
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Post by mason coal burner » Sat. Oct. 16, 2010 10:01 pm

you can put a baro on an angle . you just spin it in the T til it's level and plumb .

 
duck
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Post by duck » Sat. Oct. 16, 2010 10:10 pm

We have 50 93 - it sits in a spot designed for a Jotul Combi 4 (1970's) the pipe by not means is it level or plumb from the stove to the thimble the only spot it would work would prevent opening the top of the stove to load coal, so we use a manual damper. Last winter was the first full season using it we had no problems using the MPD.


 
RLB112
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Post by RLB112 » Sun. Oct. 17, 2010 1:05 pm

i added a MD today, with some helpful advise from some members im giving it another go. I will post a little later how its going. thanks

 
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fastcat
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Post by fastcat » Sun. Oct. 17, 2010 3:50 pm

RLB112 wrote:i added a MD today, with some helpful advise from some members im giving it another go. I will post a little later how its going. thanks
Good to hear your up and running, remember with all the advice on the forum each stove and house will have there own settings. I have had mine running now for the past week, during the day I set the bimetal thermostat on 5 with the MPD open all the way and the baro uncapped, stove temp is 125 and stack is just warm below the baro the coal looks like it is out. I have a cap that I put in the baro when I want to heat the house and only use the MPD. At night I turn the dial to 7 stove runs at 250 stack 100 and the 2500 sq ft is 72.5 all night. Think about this, they say with a baro you keep the heat in the stove instead of going up the chimney, well that might be true but what air are you drawing into the baro (room air that you have heated) and now it is going up the chimney. So as for me when heating I will only use the MPD, The baro is good in the spring and fall to get the stove to idle as low as possible on those 60 degree days and that is all when you think about it. If you are sending warm air out you have to be drawing in cold outside air in to be heated. Does your stove have the blower? Putting a reastat on it like a ceiling fan you can slow it down and control air flow into the house for the temp you want in the house. These are all observations I have made and may help you adjust yours. :D

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Sun. Oct. 17, 2010 5:19 pm

fastcat wrote:
RLB112 wrote:i added a MD today, with some helpful advise from some members im giving it another go. I will post a little later how its going. thanks
Good to hear your up and running, remember with all the advice on the forum each stove and house will have there own settings. I have had mine running now for the past week, during the day I set the bimetal thermostat on 5 with the MPD open all the way and the baro uncapped, stove temp is 125 and stack is just warm below the baro the coal looks like it is out. I have a cap that I put in the baro when I want to heat the house and only use the MPD. At night I turn the dial to 7 stove runs at 250 stack 100 and the 2500 sq ft is 72.5 all night. Think about this, they say with a baro you keep the heat in the stove instead of going up the chimney, well that might be true but what air are you drawing into the baro (room air that you have heated) and now it is going up the chimney. So as for me when heating I will only use the MPD, The baro is good in the spring and fall to get the stove to idle as low as possible on those 60 degree days and that is all when you think about it. If you are sending warm air out you have to be drawing in cold outside air in to be heated. Does your stove have the blower? Putting a reastat on it like a ceiling fan you can slow it down and control air flow into the house for the temp you want in the house. These are all observations I have made and may help you adjust yours. :D
I'm not disputing your observations here but, the warm room temperature air going up the chimney through the barometric damper is also good for draft. The manual damper holds draft / fumes back. A little fresh make-up air comming in is not a bad thing. I'd rather have fresh make-up air than stale air, or air with deadly fumes, viruses, etc..

 
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fastcat
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Post by fastcat » Sun. Oct. 17, 2010 6:46 pm

I understand where you are coming from and unless I am reading alot of posts wrong it is said with a baro not as much heat goes up the chimney and I would have to disagree if it is pulling heated air from the room. Instead of the heat going from the stove up the chimney the baro drafts it from the room the stove is heating. (This is only my opinion.) :|
oliver power wrote:
fastcat wrote: Good to hear your up and running, remember with all the advice on the forum each stove and house will have there own settings. I have had mine running now for the past week, during the day I set the bimetal thermostat on 5 with the MPD open all the way and the baro uncapped, stove temp is 125 and stack is just warm below the baro the coal looks like it is out. I have a cap that I put in the baro when I want to heat the house and only use the MPD. At night I turn the dial to 7 stove runs at 250 stack 100 and the 2500 sq ft is 72.5 all night. Think about this, they say with a baro you keep the heat in the stove instead of going up the chimney, well that might be true but what air are you drawing into the baro (room air that you have heated) and now it is going up the chimney. So as for me when heating I will only use the MPD, The baro is good in the spring and fall to get the stove to idle as low as possible on those 60 degree days and that is all when you think about it. If you are sending warm air out you have to be drawing in cold outside air in to be heated. Does your stove have the blower? Putting a reastat on it like a ceiling fan you can slow it down and control air flow into the house for the temp you want in the house. These are all observations I have made and may help you adjust yours. :D
I'm not disputing your observations here but, the warm room temperature air going up the chimney through the barometric damper is also good for draft. The manual damper holds draft / fumes back. A little fresh make-up air comming in is not a bad thing. I'd rather have fresh make-up air than stale air, or air with deadly fumes, viruses, etc..


 
RLB112
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Post by RLB112 » Sun. Oct. 17, 2010 8:00 pm

this thig is heating me outa the house. stove temp 500 and pipe temp is 400 with damper closed and all vents closed back damper is at 8 but it is closed. how do I get this thing to cool off. if I open damper stove goes to 550 and stove pipe is at 475. any ideas

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Sun. Oct. 17, 2010 8:13 pm

how can the back damper be at 8 and be closed---that means it had to be way open at one point--turn it all the way down--it's going to take a long time to cool down from 8--count how many balls are hanging free from the back vent--should be about 22 or 24 are you still playing with the rice---by the way--open some windows :)
RLB112 wrote:this thig is heating me outa the house. stove temp 500 and pipe temp is 400 with damper closed and all vents closed back damper is at 8 but it is closed. how do I get this thing to cool off. if I open damper stove goes to 550 and stove pipe is at 475. any ideas

 
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Qball
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Post by Qball » Sun. Oct. 17, 2010 8:21 pm

I run a baro in mine. If you are using nut coal, switch to pea until it gets really cold out. I get a cooler, slower burn with pea (or a mixture of pea/coal) in the fall and spring. As far as heat being pulled from the room, no issue. I have stove in basement with ducts going upstairs. Basement still stays very warm all winter. :D

 
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Razzler
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Post by Razzler » Sun. Oct. 17, 2010 8:54 pm

RLB112 wrote:stove temp 500 and pipe temp is 400 with damper closed
A barometric damper will help a lot with the temperature. When my stove is running at 500* the pipe will be 160* to 180* :| Your stove is getting air from somewhere check all your seals.

 
RLB112
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Post by RLB112 » Sun. Oct. 17, 2010 8:58 pm

i have 24 balls hanging. I had it set on 8 when I was trying to get the fire going. I wanted to turn it down because it was getting to hot I noticed that it was on 8 and it was closed. the fire is running right up to the hopper with the flames shooting up the outside of the hopper. im gonna replace all the gaskets when I can get this thing to burn out. it seems to me that I shouldnt have this thing running this hot with everything closed up.

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