Introduction to the Glenwood/2 Videos

Thank you very much everyone. I know I left out some items that I have to remember to include in the next one. So far I have been using the Stanley to knock off the chill thus far. I think this weekend is the time the Glenwood gets lighted.

mason coal burner wrote:love the video william . looking forward to more . when can we expect them . my friend is still willing to sell me his 111 . but there is a big discrepancy in the amount of money he owes me . i'm thinking 2300$ he's saying 500$ . we are actually working together now . I will ask him tomorrow when I can pick it up . and redo the math on what he owes me . how is the job hunt going by the way .

Thanks a lot mason. I am looking forward to when you get the No 111. As far as work is concerned, I got a recall letter a week or so ago and I will be back at work on Nov 3rd. I'm really glad because I am behind on everything and the pump to my Septic Tank just went out! When it rains it pours!

I hear that ...

Nice work on the vids. That's the first in depth look I've had at one of these.

I sure am kicking myself square in the ass for not grabbing one of these when I had the chance. When I first started looking for a coal stove, my buddy had one of these in perfect condition that he was trying to GIVE to me -- as in FREE. Had I known what the hell I was looking at, I'd have grabbed the damn thing & saved myself $3,500 that went to Harman for the 2 stoves I bought .. minus a grand that I got for selling the Mark I.

Let that be a lesson to you newbies!

I had no idea that these stoves were so heavily engineered.I thoroughly enjoyed your videos and am on the watch for the lightoff video. This only reinforces my belief that a good bit of work was done in this country before we ever got here.Thanks for posting the video. Mike

Hi, I saw on an old post that you like the stove size more than the nut size. Does the stove size work better with that triangular rotating grates? I mean if there is less anthracite falling down in the ash pan with stove size?
What floor space do you heat with the Glenwood?
Again, thank you very much for the time you give us.

nortcan wrote:Hi, I saw on an old post that you like the stove size more than the nut size. Does the stove size work better with that triangular rotating grates? I mean if there is less anthracite falling down in the ash pan with stove size?
What floor space do you heat with the Glenwood?
Again, thank you very much for the time you give us.

There is no problem with Nut sized coal falling through the grates. The reason I like Stove size better is that it ignites quicker and is more responsive to draft settings. Nut coal works fine in it though and someone else might prefer Nut coal.
The Glenwood heats about 2,000 square feet of house, plus the basement. The basement is uninsulated and still the entire house including the upstairs bedrooms are extremely warm. In fact the Glenwood heats so well that the snow melts to about 3 feet away from the perimeter of the house. Once I finish the basement and insulate it I am sure I will use even less coal and the Glenwood will run most of the time at low to moderate temperatures, even in sub zero weather.

SMITTY wrote:I hear that ...

Nice work on the vids. That's the first in depth look I've had at one of these.

I sure am kicking myself square in the ass for not grabbing one of these when I had the chance. When I first started looking for a coal stove, my buddy had one of these in perfect condition that he was trying to GIVE to me -- as in FREE. Had I known what the hell I was looking at, I'd have grabbed the damn thing & saved myself $3,500 that went to Harman for the 2 stoves I bought .. minus a grand that I got for selling the Mark I.

Let that be a lesson to you newbies!

Thanks Smitty. I couldn't have asked for a better endorsement than that.

Hi Wsherrick, can you tell me of what material is made the outside of the stove, I mean the round cylinder? Is it steel sheet or cast iron? It should be very strong to support the doors. Does that cylinder hold the upper part to the lower one and how are they tied together?
Your stove looks very very tight fit for a stove of that age, every thing without play. What is the secret? An other thing that facinates me is how the stove can be air-tight without gasket? On our stoves it is a lot of problems if the gaskets are in bad shape and need a regular inspection, on yours it seems to be completly different???
Hope you will understand my English, sometime I cannot write what I think.
Salutations from Qc and hope to see your next video, the 2 first were very informative.

nortcan wrote:Hi Wsherrick, can you tell me of what material is made the outside of the stove, I mean the round cylinder? Is it steel sheet or cast iron? It should be very strong to support the doors. Does that cylinder hold the upper part to the lower one and how are they tied together?
Your stove looks very very tight fit for a stove of that age, every thing without play. What is the secret? An other thing that facinates me is how the stove can be air-tight without gasket? On our stoves it is a lot of problems if the gaskets are in bad shape and need a regular inspection, on yours it seems to be completly different???
Hope you will understand my English, sometime I cannot write what I think.
Salutations from Qc and hope to see your next video, the 2 first were very informative.

Nortcan,

The majority of the stove is cast iron. There is a steel section that the cast iron door frame, top, base and back base burner attachments hook onto. These parts all bolt to the sheet metal and have a lip that, on mine at least, allows these connections to be embedded in furnace cement. The stove is made up of many individual parts that most have almost a tongue and groove kind of connection. These connections are assembled with furnace cement. It makes for a very tight stove. The cast iron surfaces that match, where you would normally have a gasket, are machined surfaces and fit very well. William calls these stoves "air tight" I don't know that I agree 100% with that, but I can say the small amount of air leakage that does occur is very small to the point of being sufficiently negligible to make these stoves run very efficiently with excellent combustion control.

I've run modern air tight stoves as well as this old timer. I quite agree with William, these are amazing stoves....

dj

Thanks a lot dj for the thumbs up. I really appreciate it. I hope you will let us know how your house modifications work this winter.
Now, I can say with full confidence that the ash pit door and the loading doors on my stove don't leak any air. I went over them well with a candle flame to see if I could find any leaks. You are right in saying the stove is not 100% air tight since there is the controlled secondary air ring which is always open and the little hole in the top where the swing top hook/hinge fits into, but; again you are right that any leaks are so small that there is no effect on the performance of the stove.

By the way, have you started yours up yet?

Thanks dlj for the answers. These stoves are well done. The ring with holes is a super idea.
salutations from Qc

wsherrick wrote: By the way, have you started yours up yet?

Just tonight I started it up. It's been warm more than cold for a number of days, I'm been running the furnace when needed. But my older daughter was complaining earlier that she was cold so I fired it up about 4 or 5 hours ago. No need to be cold...

dj

dlj wrote:

wsherrick wrote: By the way, have you started yours up yet?

Just tonight I started it up. It's been warm more than cold for a number of days, I'm been running the furnace when needed. But my older daughter was complaining earlier that she was cold so I fired it up about 4 or 5 hours ago. No need to be cold...

dj

I think tommorrow will be the day for me as well.

I decided to put the two sets of videos next to each other so those that want to see them in order can do so.