AHS-130 Flapper Problem

jmmazzy · Post by **jmmazzy** » Wed. Oct. 01, 2014 7:50 pm

Yes that is correct. I can never get a real hot burn in this pot, I can in mine but not my sons. Boiler hookups are almost identical. I am heating 7000 sq ft. with no problem. (15 gal oil last winter supplement) well insulated house with 2x4 construction. Son is heating 4500 sq ft w/2x6 foam filled and can not keep up, never shuts off. So I figure it has to do something with this fan being off plumb. I need some input from you guys so I can be more comfortable before I put a torch to it.

jmmazzy

Post by **Rob R.** » Wed. Oct. 01, 2014 7:57 pm

AHS-130 Flapper Problem

Would you like to combine this with your previous thread?

It would be great if you could post pictures to help us understand what you are describing. It sure sounds like you have found a significant difference between the two boilers.

lsayre · Post by **lsayre** » Wed. Oct. 01, 2014 8:01 pm

jmmazzy wrote:Yes that is correct. I can never get a real hot burn in this pot, I can in mine but not my sons. Boiler hookups are almost identical. I am heating 7000 sq ft. with no problem. (15 gal oil last winter supplement) well insulated house with 2x4 construction. Son is heating 4500 sq ft w/2x6 foam filled and can not keep up, never shuts off. So I figure it has to do something with this fan being off plumb. I need some input from you guys so I can be more comfortable before I put a torch to it.

jmmazzy

Is the port cover (flapper) on your son's boiler pulling in aggressively (sealing positively) when the fan comes on (and does it spring free when the fan shuts off)? Have you ran a boiler brush through the channel that runs from the "Popes Hat" region under the flue discharge port and above the cyclonic separator on into the swirl chamber? Have you opened her up in the back and directly cleaned out the swirl chamber and cleaned the fan blades? Are your fan shafts two pillow block bearings set screws tightly adhering to the fan shaft?

jmmazzy · Post by **jmmazzy** » Wed. Oct. 01, 2014 8:23 pm

Yes I would like to combine this post Rob.
I'll take some pictures tomorrow and post them.
Larry YES to all. Flapper does shut but not aggressively as mines does and not really hold tight as mines does. My flapper slams shut, His dosn't but it does shut.

jmmazzy

lsayre · Post by **lsayre** » Wed. Oct. 01, 2014 8:26 pm

jmmazzy wrote:Yes I would like to combine this post Rob.
I'll take some pictures tomorrow and post them.
Larry YES to all. Flapper does shut but not aggressively as mines does and not really hold tight as mines does. My flapper slams shut, His dosn't but it does shut.

jmmazzy

I cured mine by aggressively cleaning the channel that I mentioned which runs down into the swirl chamber. Is this the channel that you feel is defectively formed?

Also make sure the cyclonic separator discharge hole at the bottom is open and not plugged up.

jmmazzy · Post by **jmmazzy** » Wed. Oct. 01, 2014 8:31 pm

Done that Larry. Do it twice a year once in Jan and again at shutdown.

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Wed. Oct. 01, 2014 8:36 pm

Larry, Didn't you post pics of that channel area back when you did the cleaning?

jmmazzy · Post by **jmmazzy** » Wed. Oct. 01, 2014 8:40 pm

Larry, cyclonic separator discharge hole at the bottom is open and not plugged up.I keep these boilers spotless.

jmmazzy

lsayre · Post by **lsayre** » Wed. Oct. 01, 2014 8:41 pm

McGiever wrote:Larry, Didn't you post pics of that channel area back when you did the cleaning?

Actually a contributor to my thread posted a pic as I recall.

jmmazzy · Post by **jmmazzy** » Wed. Oct. 01, 2014 9:03 pm

I have been throught everything on this boiler even changed the fan assembly between my boiler an his with the same results, the only thing left that is not identical is the swirl tube and I have a strong feeling this my be the problem. After all what else is left. I'm going to sleep on it tonight but my gut feeling now is to cut it and make it square, that fan is pitched 1/2" and It might make a difference.

jmmazzy

rwwsr · Post by **rwwsr** » Thu. Oct. 02, 2014 9:12 pm

Mazzy
Finished reading your first post. Surprised larger pulley did not fix problem. FWIW If you have not already done this, try moving fan closer to dust shield to increase cfm/velocity of fan. I know you tried moving fan closer to vessel but the back of fan (side facing dust shield) is open and relies on distance from dust shield to create cfm/velocity. Normal setting +-50% maybe try +-25% (if no impingement on shield). Maybe just a waste of time but it seems you have tried every thing else.
Disclaimer: this is just my $.02

cabinover · Post by **cabinover** » Fri. Oct. 03, 2014 6:30 pm

Could you not fashion a shim to test your theory? Make it with tabs that will hold it secure to the swirl tube, even if you had to tack weld it to secure it. It'd be worth a try and you can undo that. Harder to undo the torch cut if you know what I mean.

Just a thought from this tired mind after delivering propane all day to the unfortunate masses.

Pa papa · Post by **Pa papa** » Fri. Oct. 10, 2014 6:58 am

"I fired her up last week and after 2 days she died and setting the Co2 off." from your original post

Sounds to me that you have no draft on your son's chimney, or did I miss that vital piece of information in your thread?

jmmazzy · Post by **jmmazzy** » Sat. Oct. 11, 2014 11:10 am

Sorry I been away so long. been away. I am working on this now. Tried the fan thing. Will get back when It is installes.

jmmazzy · Post by **jmmazzy** » Sat. Oct. 11, 2014 11:17 am

pa papa

I thought of that but the oil fired boiler is hooked up to the same stack, we either run one or the other. If this dosn't work I will put an inline draft inducer in and try that.

AHS-130 Flapper Problem

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