AHS-130 Flapper Problem

jmmazzy · Post by **jmmazzy** » Tue. Oct. 28, 2014 7:34 pm

Yes it is.

cabinover · Post by **cabinover** » Tue. Oct. 28, 2014 7:38 pm

jmmazzy wrote: I'm not a fan guy but I would say it was creating some kind of a turbulence.

Don't think turbulence was your problem Mazzy. You weren't drawing all the draft you were supposed to (or could have been) when the fan was in operation. Everywhere you weren't close to the tube with your fan was lost airflow that was desperately needed.

I think it also hurt you on your idle fire. Picture this if you will. You have 1/4" times what....10" or so around the fan and tube which draft can flow. Now open half of that up to 1/2". I would think air velocity would suffer. I'm not an engineer nor did I stay at a Holiday Inn last night so maybe this is all BS. Just a theory.

Glad you've got it on the run now though, happy heating!

jmmazzy · Post by **jmmazzy** » Tue. Oct. 28, 2014 8:10 pm

Cabinover Thanks for your velocity theory, it sound good.

I'll be playing with fan ajustment sometime this week. Never done any since I done the temporary fix. I'm not an engineer either and I hate Holiday Inn

cabinover · Post by **cabinover** » Tue. Oct. 28, 2014 8:24 pm

I never got too nervous over fan adjustment. I figured if it didn't rub on one side or the other it must be good enough!

jmmazzy · Post by **jmmazzy** » Mon. Nov. 10, 2014 4:46 pm

Cabinover said. I never got too nervous over fan adjustment. I figured if it didn't rub on one side or the other it must be good enough!

And thats what I done. Ajusted fan last weekend, backed off 1/8". Flapper doesn't slap shut it slams shut now, coals take off just like my stoker.Set fuji controller on both stokers at 130. Used Bacharach draft control at flapper peep hole, drawing -11 on sons and -12 on mines. Turned all thermostates up in house including the 48,000 BTU unit heater in garage and indirect dhw tank and it handled it no problem. Next summer I will take the torch to it and make it like its suppose to when it comes out ASH shop. Amazing isn't it.

Mazzy

chevymatt · Post by **chevymatt** » Mon. Nov. 10, 2014 5:54 pm

jmmazzy wrote:Cabinover said. I never got too nervous over fan adjustment. I figured if it didn't rub on one side or the other it must be good enough!

And thats what I done. Ajusted fan last weekend, backed off 1/8". Flapper doesn't slap shut it slams shut now, coals take off just like my stoker.Set fuji controller on both stokers at 130. Used Bacharach draft control at flapper peep hole, drawing -11 on sons and -12 on mines. Turned all thermostates up in house including the 48,000 unit heater in garage and indirect dhw tank and it handled it no problem. Next summer I will take the torch to it and make it like its suppose to when it comes out ASH shop. Amazing isn't it.

Mazzy

Do you have a measurement from the steel plate to the back of the fan? I had to replace the fan driveshaft a few years back and it's never been quite the same. I never knew that the spacing could make that much of a difference. Mines a S260 but I would have to think they would be very similar

jmmazzy · Post by **jmmazzy** » Mon. Nov. 10, 2014 6:14 pm

I don't, see pic on Oct. 11 post that is an issue I still have to correct, but if my memory is correct the markings on the shaft was 1" apart. ahs recommends that you push the fan shaft all the way in (mark the shaft) pull it all the way back and mark the shaft again and place the shaft 1/2 way. In my case I pushed it all the way in and backed off 1/8" Hope this helps

Mazzy.

chevymatt · Post by **chevymatt** » Mon. Nov. 10, 2014 6:17 pm

Thanks for the info. It does help and if it heats up as quick as yours does I'll be a happy camper

cabinover · Post by **cabinover** » Tue. Nov. 11, 2014 7:36 pm

I think I went in until the fan just touched the tube and backed off a little. The closer it is makes sense to me that it should give you a better draw through the coal bed rather than drawing around itself.

Post by **greenftechn** » Mon. Nov. 24, 2014 7:46 am

One reason for the flap being pulled in too weakly (or not at all) would be fly ash deposits just inside the restrictor plate. This is one area of annual maintenance that is poorly described in the manual. At the end of the season, we recommend disconnecting flue connecting pipe, removing the flue tube assembly, and cleaning this area. After removing the flue tube assembly (4 bolts for the S130 uniting the flange of the assembly with the one on the boiler), you will see the square hole that leads into the heat exchanger. Use a brush with a flexible braided wire handle and vigorously work it back and forth through the hole. Some vacuum assist can help. You can also run the fan on the boiler, but you'll get a lot of fly ash in your face doing so.