Installing Insulation Behind Stove

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holleta
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Post by holleta » Tue. Oct. 26, 2010 5:23 pm

Aside from framing it and useing fiberglass batts, is there any type of sheet insulation (foil sided perhaps?) that can be used over a poured concrete wall behind a stove? All I found was Dow Thermax which is foiled but only rated @ 250*.

My old house had some type of compressed (1" or so thick) fiberglass sheet insulation with foil on one side that worked great but can't find it any more.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks!

 
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I'm On Fire
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Post by I'm On Fire » Tue. Oct. 26, 2010 6:12 pm

I don't see any reason why you couldn't just use regular batting. Just make sure you remove the backing. Or, you can use insulation wrap used on chimney liners. Its about 1" thick with an aluminum backing.

If you know what size you'd need let me know. I have a roll that I used on my liner and I can see What I have left.

 
holleta
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Post by holleta » Tue. Oct. 26, 2010 6:34 pm

I'm not sure how I would fasten batts of fiberglass...it's an unfinished basement with no studs-just a poured concrete wall. Thanks for the offer of the pipe insulation, I will have to look in to that as I am not familar with it.

I was thinking heat resistant sheets would be the way to go because I can glue them or even masonary screw them to the concrete but I'm really not sure what the best option would be. :?

 
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Post by WNY » Tue. Oct. 26, 2010 7:23 pm

IF its just concrete walls, you don't need anything, it is non-combustible. you only need insulation board if you have combustible wall/studs, etc...


 
holleta
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Post by holleta » Tue. Oct. 26, 2010 7:30 pm

I realize I don't need anything but want to insulate for better effciency of my stove. I figure the concrete walls will be a steady 45-50* or so (below ground level basement) and I will have to "heat" them as well.

 
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Chuck_Steak
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Post by Chuck_Steak » Tue. Oct. 26, 2010 8:54 pm

How far away from the wall is the back of the stove?
That's an important piece of information....
Is it less than 24"?

 
holleta
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Post by holleta » Tue. Oct. 26, 2010 10:45 pm

It's less than 24" now, right around 18". I can move it out to the 24' to 28" range if needed though.

 
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Chuck_Steak
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Post by Chuck_Steak » Wed. Oct. 27, 2010 12:33 pm

holleta wrote:It's less than 24" now, right around 18". I can move it out to the 24' to 28" range if needed though.
You should check with your stove manufacturer to be certain,
but I should think that 24" you could use the foil faced foam board with no problem.
That is about my situation, and I am using the foam board.
The only area you should be careful of is, if it is the same wall as your thimble,
you should keep around 18" clearance around your pipe entry to thimble..
(I think it's 3 pipe diameters to meet code IIRC)

Dan


 
holleta
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Post by holleta » Wed. Oct. 27, 2010 8:29 pm

Stove requires an 18" min which I took advantage of to maximize space. The pipe that goes in the thimble is 36" or so so I can pull out more for increased clearance if needed.

 
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Post by duck » Wed. Oct. 27, 2010 9:41 pm

At my workplace we make machinery with heaters and we install rigid fiberglass panels on the inside of the metal shields around the heaters. For years we used Hi Temp (red silicone) adhesive to hold the panels to the shields, the equipment ran betweeen 300 - 500 deg F.

 
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Post by McGiever » Mon. Nov. 01, 2010 12:54 pm

Not Too Fancy, but...2' X 4' Fiberglass type Acoustical Lay-In Ceiling Tiles could be glued and/or screwed to your concrete.

Vinyl side towards concrete and cover yellow fiberglass w/ sheet metal or whatever.

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