20+Y.O. Harman ST8 Parts Dilemma...Cracked Grate

Hi All... I have a 20+ y.o. Harman Mag Stoker. I had some problems with it at the end of last season pushing through unburnt coal. I talked to a few dealers, some said it was the spring/fall draft issue, another said the chimney crock was probably full, and yet another said the area below the grate was probably clogged full of ash. So I made it my Summer project and here it is fall and I still haven't touched it...until today. And it wasn't me who was doing the hands on. I figured I would get a dealer to clean it out and get the area under the grate, which I wasnt comfortable doing myself, and just generally give it a once over. As it turns out, the grate is cracked. And the stove is a ST8, Harman doesn't make the part anymore. My only option is a retrofit which will probably cost waaaaaaaay more than I have to spend. I have called approximately 10 different Harman dealers today and nobody has any NOS grates or even an old stove sitting around that has the part I need to strip it off. Then I got to thinking, I have lived in this house for 11 years, who knows how long that grate has been cracked. Is it safe to use in this condition? I have read some other threads that one person said he had a cracked grate for 15 years. Heck, I may have been using this stove with a cracked grate for several years. Anyway, saftey is the biggest concern. I honestly don't see how this would affect operation, and since I cant find the proper part, have no money to do the retrofit and honestly, I can't get the grate out of there myself anyway ( I was going to get it welded but that freakin' thing is in there tighter than, well...really tight) and I really don't want to risk hammering on it to the point of the thing falling into pieces. Any help is thoroughly appreciated, and if anybody has any leads on a one piece grate, let me know, I'll take it. Thanks, All!

If it's the burn grate, it would just affect the air flow thru it, may not even affect the operation or concern.

Maybe post a pic or two of what is wrong then we can determine exactly what needs or not needed to be done.

Here ya go...(fingers crossed)

Also, in the first pic, the grate looks like it has a bulge to it.

In my opinion, that crack would have zero effect on the operation of the stoker.. The crack is closed tight, no extra air to get out of it, or other issues..

I'd say your original problem was an accumulation of fines below the grate, clogging the air holes.

Greg L

LsFarm wrote:In my opinion, that crack would have zero effect on the operation of the stoker.. The crack is closed tight, no extra air to get out of it, or other issues..

I'd say your original problem was an accumulation of fines below the grate, clogging the air holes.

Greg L

Anybody want to second that? I feel that is probably accurate myself. A PILE of fines? (I guess) fell out of the grate when I was hammering on it trying to get it out of there (unsuccessfully). And now I can see my flashlight through the holes in the grate when I shine it from underneath.

I've seen worse ST8 grates that are still being used today. Yes, they bulge in the middle when they get too hot. The crack is insignificant. I would continue to use that grate, but I would also start saving my pennies for the Magnum conversion kit. You really get alot with the kit, It costs about $500, and completely turns your ST8 into a magnum. Not too shabby for $500. Consider that upgrade in the future, maybe NEXT summer's project

Thanks, everybody. I guess I know where my income tax refund is going to go. Appreciate the help, I feel much better, and I've found a good resource for coal Q&A.

I have an ST8 also that I bought last spring. It has a crack down the center. I have yet to light it as I work too many hours. I heard that the under grate can fill with fines and block the air flow. As with a hand fired the incoming air helps to cool the bottom of the grate.

After seeing the pics, Like I said, it should affect the operation at all. looks fine, the grate itself doens't apear to leak at the crack, even if it does, won't hurt anything. Just clean out the holes and under the grate, remove combustion blower if you have to and vacuum under the grate.

Looks just like mine. I've burned it this way for the past nine years - since I bought my house with the stove in it. I had a picture of it - looks exactly the same - but can't find. Can't take another as my stove is burning. I think you're fine.

does anyone have a manual for this stove. I just bought one .

smitty01 wrote:does anyone have a manual for this stove. I just bought one .

Oh my gob! Two Smitty's! They are multiplying! Must be all that water and soft dirt.

Welcome to the forum new Smitty. Sorry I can't help with your ST8 but I'm positive some of the stoker guys can help you.

Hi all my name is Harold and first let me apologize for posting a question but I cant seem to figure this out ..I stumbled upon this forum searching for parts for a Harman ST8-VF8 its a flat-top,3 glass...I bought this last fall as a usable torn apart stove ...knowing nothing more than I needed heat and having a little faith the seller wasn't pulling my leg , I managed to reassemble and regasket the stove it worked great last year ...this year I'm starting to get worried I started it up after cleaning the ash from the duct and furnace top and noticed the pusher bar? Not working so I shut it off and pulled the pusher bar/rod out (after motor removal) cleaned it up with sandpaper cleared all the coal dust out of where it slides..the problem now is it moves in and out but doesn't actually push the coal into the burn area..I am mechanically inclined but this is beyond me I've tried putting a spacer in to push the plate forward more but it didn't help ..any one have any advice ?

Hi Harold, welcome to the forum.

I have one of these little monsters, too. I'm wondering how far your push-block travels? I try to set mine to travel about 1/4" when the coal is bone dry to 3/8" or so when it's wet.

When I first start mine for the year and I'm feeding the first run of coal onto a completely empty grate, it takes forever for it to get there.

To ask a stupid question: is the push block actually moving or is the adjustment rod simply going back and forth? The rod or block could be stripped.

I'm not entirely sure what you mean by putting a spacer in to push the plate forward, but if I'm understanding you, it sounds like this will have the reverse effect. Whenever the block slides back the coal from the hopper drops in front of it then the block runs forward and pushes it in. I'm sure you figured this all out, of course, but by adjusting the tongue at the back of the push rod all the way in you should be able to feed coal very quickly. I have noticed that it doesn't feed as fast when the hopper is pretty nearly and/or the coal is wet.

Where do you have your timers set?

If you need the manual let me know and I'll PM it to you.

Good luck! Let us know how you're making out.