NO DRAFT...

To tell you the truth, i'm over whelmed with stuff that has to be done by winter. I'm going to tomorrow i'm going to put the clay on top and hopefully cement or mortar it in. After that i'm going to try to connect stovepipe out of the collar directly towards the exit out of the house. I still want a barometric damper in there, but my question is where? Should i put it in the middle of the direct route from collar to exit?

CoalBurner5 wrote:I am going to call my heating and plumbing person and have him move my pipes so that they are more direct into the back of the chimney, which will also move the barometric draft some as well.

After you redo the pipe be careful opening that outside door because it looks like it could bang into the repositioned stovepipe and dent it. You may have to devise some kind of door stop so the door doesn't hit it.

no need to be overwhelmed, all you need to do is raise the height of the stack with tile AND brick to be about 1' above the closest peak. Next, run the smoke pipe between the boiler and the stack at around a 45º angle so it takes the shortest route between the boiler and chimney, then move the baro from the bull end of that "T" to a "T" in the middle of the straight run of smoke pipe.

okay two things..

first what does it mean when this thread turns colors. Now its blue....

Secondly, I'm not 100% sure i'm going to brick it all the way up. i'm not the best with masonry stuff. GIve me wood and a few table saws and routers i'm good to go. masonry, i've never played with it. I have about 6 inches of brick coming up above the last piece of clay liner. So my game plan is to set that clay liner down inside the chimney so that the piece of clay that i'm putting on buts up against the last piece in the chimney. It will only then have about 1ft 6 inches showing on top. Hopefully that will cure the problem. I will then get a straight shot from collar of boiler to the exit outside of the house and place the barometric draft on that straight shot.

I know you guys think i'm crazy, but i really think this tree line might have something to do with it. So that's going this weekend too. (it has to go anyways, it's to close to the house and i'm not into talking to insurance agents right now) it's just safer.

Is it okay to have that clay liner stick out the top of the chimney rougly a foot and a half?

CoalBurner5 wrote:okay two things..

first what does it mean when this thread turns colors. Now its blue....

Secondly, I'm not 100% sure i'm going to brick it all the way up. i'm not the best with masonry stuff. GIve me wood and a few table saws and routers i'm good to go. masonry, i've never played with it. I have about 6 inches of brick coming up above the last piece of clay liner. So my game plan is to set that clay liner down inside the chimney so that the piece of clay that i'm putting on buts up against the last piece in the chimney. It will only then have about 1ft 6 inches showing on top. Hopefully that will cure the problem. I will then get a straight shot from collar of boiler to the exit outside of the house and place the barometric draft on that straight shot.

I know you guys think i'm crazy, but i really think this tree line might have something to do with it. So that's going this weekend too. (it has to go anyways, it's to close to the house and i'm not into talking to insurance agents right now) it's just safer.

Is it okay to have that clay liner stick out the top of the chimney rougly a foot and a half?

It really isn't the best. That is why you were recommended to finish it off the right way with the brick exterior.

You can also check into getting something like this : http://www.extendaflue.com/cast.html



Rick

Just adding a tile above the brick is not ideal, but I see it often enough to think it will get you through the winter. Have you considered hiring a mason and having it dine right the first time?

Alright guys so here is the progress i've made.

I took the chimney up with tile 3 feet higher than what it was in the picture. Now it clearly passes the 10/2 rule. It's much better than the 10/2 rule. As of right now it is only clay tile liner. I have already purchased the brick to take it up some more as well. That will probably have to wait till friday or saturday morning. I'm probably going to increase it so that i have approximately 6 inches of clay still sticking up through the top. I started a fire and so far so good. It usually took some time before i started to get some bad smells, but so far so good.


Thanks for all the help and i'll keep you guys up dated.

forgot to ask if anyone knew the exact dimensions of the auger pipe. I realize that it is stainless steel 2 inch pipe. But does anyone know the size of the notch that is suppose to be cut into it.

I'm just curious so that if i have to i will make a new one and only put holes on the top. Not sure if i will have to, but just curious. I know the holes are 1/4 inch holes.

Thanks again.

The pin is 1/8", so if you made the slot 3/16" wide, you'd be OK. It has to fully seat into the gooseneck and I'm guessing the slot is 1/2" long. You can always lengthen it if you pull out your old pipe and see it's a longer slot. I don't think the extra holes have anything to do with your draft problems. I don't see how they could.

I was told today that the chimney size should be much greater than 7''x7''. Has anyone ever had problems with a 7''x7'' inside dimensions for the exterior flue pipe?

don't pay attention to them, maximum volume isn't your issue, draft is. "8/8" liners aren't always 8/8 id, depends on the size of the brick and what brand/sizes the masonry supply house has in stock, either way, doesn't really matter too much.

Also, if you do the math, an 8" round flue has an area of 50 sq. in. and a 7 x 7 I.D. tile has an area of 49 sq. in. The area is the same but the turbulence is different. Just use the standard 8 x 8 O.D. liner.

I know of good chimneys using a 7" round pipe. In fact, according to the national standards, it's acceptable to downsize the recommended flue pipe by one inch, depending upon the firing rate of the unit. An 8" pipe will handle the maximum load of the stoker, but if you fire constantly at half that rate, you could downsize by one inch. The standards don't talk about coal, but for oil fired appliances, this is true.

okay so i have the coal up and burning. I have minimal smell and it is pouring down rain. I'm assuming this is good news. I have already extended that chimney up 3 feet higher. And plan on fixing the stovepipe work today or tomorrow.

So far i've gained a lot from just extending the chimney. My hopes are that with bricking around that liner later in the week and with fixing the stove pipe direction that it will solve the whole problem.

I will keep you guys updated.

The pipe rework will help, and the higher you go with the chimney the better it will draft.

So far so good. Burned coal all night last night and had minimal (if any) smell. I did a little more sealing off of the coal bin and tonight will check for more of an odor. I have not moved the stove pipe at all yet. I'm still wondering if i should.

Would it make a big difference to move the stove pipe and if I do decide to move the stovepipe for a more direct route outside the house, where should i locate the barometric damper?

I could put it:
a.) at the collar of the boiler and then shoot up towards the exit of the house
b.) in the middle of the straight shot from the collar to the exit of the house
c.) right before it exits the house (currently where the cleanout is located)

GIve me feedback for which would be the best location.