Got me frustrated..had stove working okay with box temp of 400-500 a month ago, then I installed the hopped, can't get stove above 300, chimney temp gets around 150,
flue is wide open, damper closed, and vent on ash drawer has to be open almost all the way to get a good burn, Chimney is 15 ft , 2 ft above roof. I was getting a good hot fire before I installed the hopper. Can the hopper affect the stove operation that much and affect the draft?
Help With Alaska Kokiak..Drafting
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Poconoeagle
- Member
- Posts: 6397
- Joined: Sat. Nov. 08, 2008 7:26 pm
- Location: Tobyhanna PA
naw. Did you "hang" the baffle straight down in its perch behind the hopper? My personal feeling is that if you hang the lip of it in the back portion of the welded in bracket so that it angles down and toward the back, it requires the exhaust to circumnavagate around and then out the hole. I feel that provides more heat retention and draft control.
a .05 draft-.06 seems pretty optimal for the 18' chimney I burn thru and 500-750 can be had. also I keep the shaker slide-slot closed and just use the 4 lower slots as they provide the proper air flow into the stove and aid the designed in glass wash system.
keeping the 4 vertical air paths clear of ash and small chunks of coal is important. with the hopper in and full I do a good corner poke every second filling cycle to get the ash build up to drop down. if left un poked, the rear of the burning chamber tends to get ash packed.....
a .05 draft-.06 seems pretty optimal for the 18' chimney I burn thru and 500-750 can be had. also I keep the shaker slide-slot closed and just use the 4 lower slots as they provide the proper air flow into the stove and aid the designed in glass wash system.
keeping the 4 vertical air paths clear of ash and small chunks of coal is important. with the hopper in and full I do a good corner poke every second filling cycle to get the ash build up to drop down. if left un poked, the rear of the burning chamber tends to get ash packed.....