Hi vig11PB, this morning the T* on the stove top was 425*F. I did try to open the air control on the side and saw no change in the top burning and I did closed and opened it a few times to be sure of the testings. I waited a while between each try. The damper was closed. Then I lifted the top griddle just a little and instantly the blue flames arrived and stayed as long as I kept the top lid ajar. The reason for a channel for an over the fire air vent is that I would have it passing between the front plate(the steel plate replacing the front grille) and the hottest spot, the red hot coal bed to over heat the air entering the channel. It could be easier to ignite the gases with super hot air??? The air entering at the lower of the glasses is not very hot on my stove, probably because of that steel plate acting as a heat deflector a that point so I sealed them when testing all I could on the stove.VigIIPeaBurner wrote:Norcan, your stove already has a secondary air inlet, totally cast iron and controlable too. I've usually kept it closed but recently began to open it when I start recharging.When the damper is closed this port lets air into the secondary burn chamber inside the right side of the stove and then to the back secondary chamber . When the Vigilant is in updraft mode (damper open), the air is sucked into the main fire box chamber. There's always a little air feeding directly into the firebox from the glass in the to front doors. Like Harman glass windows, the gasket is only on the sides and top, the bottom does not have a gasket.
I wouldn't use this port in low fire/warm weather conditions. I'm concerned it saps too much draft under these low draft conditions. With it closed, the additional draft would draw O2 from beneath the fire and a more complete combustion. It's also the most direct path into the room from the fire box area so it would be the first source for CO to back draft, damper open or closed. Remember, the Vigilant was once a wood stove.
Nice to have others opinions