I remove the RC baro , after peeking in with a light and seeing a build up of fly ash not to my liking, and use the shop vac to clean off the back side as well as the fly ash in the pipe that I can reach. Naturally I temp check the pipe either with skin or better yet the infrared thermometer. Usually right after a newely loaded stove the flue temp get down toward 100 and I can reach in both ways quite far.
The key to getting it back to normal is indeed the use of a spirit level.....
no Smitty, not liquid spirits, at least not till its set!!
Fields RC Baro Damper...Why Did It...?
- I'm On Fire
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Ok, I was afraid that I wouldn't be able to clean the fly ash out with the stove running.
Well, the manometer is reading .05" WC. I guess thats where its going to stay. Stove is at 550* and the stack temp is 180*.
I worry too much.
Well, the manometer is reading .05" WC. I guess thats where its going to stay. Stove is at 550* and the stack temp is 180*.
I worry too much.
- Coalfire
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Please explain, if you have it set for eaxample say .05, and that is what your stove calls for why would you have to adjust it for "variables." Just wondering? I read through all those posts in the Baro/MPD debate and remember Lsfarm saying they are automatic. Constantly making adjustments doesn't make them automatic. If there is constant adjustment, why not just run a MPD .Dann757 wrote:Due to all the variables in my particular situation, I adjust my baro frequently. This helps in keeping a desired draft as indicated by my manometer.
If you could explain what you mean that would be great, maybe I could tweak something in my operation.
Thanks, Eric
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Nah.. Just some evil spirits...
Although I did see a $600.00 bottle of Tequila at the NH state store...
Although I did see a $600.00 bottle of Tequila at the NH state store...
- Chuck_Steak
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Yeah, you have to ask them for the good stuff!!.......CapeCoaler wrote: Although I did see a $600.00 bottle of Tequila at the NH state store...
(that's how we get away with no sales tax!)