Late Model GM 4.3 Fitment Question. the JIMMY Motor!
- dave brode
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Smitty,
It happens that I just freshened the 4.3 in my '01 S10, and I did some study on the engines. Forgive me if some of this is repeat;
The engines bolt in the same. The '96 up "distributer" houses only a cam position sensor, but yours will fit.
The Vortec moniker was used previously, but the '96 up 4.3 is what is considered a "real" Vortec. They have a plastic plenum, and center injector. They look just like the '96 up vortec truck 5.7s. The easy way to i.d. a vortec head is look at the intake bolts. They go straight down.
The '96 up injection is different, and the intake is dry, your TB is a wet intake setup. You could make the later truck's ecu, sensors and the like work, but you would need to REALLY like wiring.
As I see it, you have two options to keep your early injection and engine controls as is;
#1, The easiest way to do it might be to get an aftermarket 4 barrel intake [or a marine 4 barrel intake, iirc, they do exist for the '96 up] that will fit the vortec heads, and fashion an adapter plate to mount your throttle body to it.
#2 is redrill the vortec heads to accept your early intake. I'll look for a thread on that and post if I find it.
The only other things to look at;
1. If you went with the carb'd intake with adapter, making the EGR system work might be an issue. Although since your truck is pre OBDII, it would probably run w/o coding with no egr.
2. The threaded boss for the knock sensor might be different. Drill/tap etc.
3. Bolt pattern on exh manifold to head surface, IF you need to use your older manifolds. Chevy did weird stuff over the years with the end bolt hole [spacing different].
Dave
It happens that I just freshened the 4.3 in my '01 S10, and I did some study on the engines. Forgive me if some of this is repeat;
The engines bolt in the same. The '96 up "distributer" houses only a cam position sensor, but yours will fit.
The Vortec moniker was used previously, but the '96 up 4.3 is what is considered a "real" Vortec. They have a plastic plenum, and center injector. They look just like the '96 up vortec truck 5.7s. The easy way to i.d. a vortec head is look at the intake bolts. They go straight down.
The '96 up injection is different, and the intake is dry, your TB is a wet intake setup. You could make the later truck's ecu, sensors and the like work, but you would need to REALLY like wiring.
As I see it, you have two options to keep your early injection and engine controls as is;
#1, The easiest way to do it might be to get an aftermarket 4 barrel intake [or a marine 4 barrel intake, iirc, they do exist for the '96 up] that will fit the vortec heads, and fashion an adapter plate to mount your throttle body to it.
#2 is redrill the vortec heads to accept your early intake. I'll look for a thread on that and post if I find it.
The only other things to look at;
1. If you went with the carb'd intake with adapter, making the EGR system work might be an issue. Although since your truck is pre OBDII, it would probably run w/o coding with no egr.
2. The threaded boss for the knock sensor might be different. Drill/tap etc.
3. Bolt pattern on exh manifold to head surface, IF you need to use your older manifolds. Chevy did weird stuff over the years with the end bolt hole [spacing different].
Dave
- dave brode
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Smitty,
Here's the thread. It was done on a turbo'd syclone engine, but the port size and bolt pattern would be same as your older engine. Looks like the votec port is taller. Not too simple looking;
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/gmc-syclone-111652.html
here's another thread;
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy/929128-94-4- ... eeded.html
Dave
p.s. - the simplest thing might be to get another set of early heads, freshen those, and put them on the later engine, so all of your stuff bolts on no headaches.
Dave
Here's the thread. It was done on a turbo'd syclone engine, but the port size and bolt pattern would be same as your older engine. Looks like the votec port is taller. Not too simple looking;
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/gmc-syclone-111652.html
here's another thread;
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy/929128-94-4- ... eeded.html
Dave
p.s. - the simplest thing might be to get another set of early heads, freshen those, and put them on the later engine, so all of your stuff bolts on no headaches.
Dave
- SMITTY
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Great info Dave - much appreciated.
I have no interest in wiring, sensors, or computers ... so the route I've chosen is to just slap an Edlebrock 2114 intake & a 1404 or 1403 carb on top, then whatever HEI distributor I can find. Simple & reliable.
I could probably save some cash by tapping the heads, but the aforementioned components are a sure bet. I'm not noted for my great patience after all ....
I'll probably hang onto the old motor & components as well, so if the Jimmy curse decides to bite me in the ass again, I can rebuild the old engine or use it as a core for a long block.
I have no interest in wiring, sensors, or computers ... so the route I've chosen is to just slap an Edlebrock 2114 intake & a 1404 or 1403 carb on top, then whatever HEI distributor I can find. Simple & reliable.
I could probably save some cash by tapping the heads, but the aforementioned components are a sure bet. I'm not noted for my great patience after all ....
I'll probably hang onto the old motor & components as well, so if the Jimmy curse decides to bite me in the ass again, I can rebuild the old engine or use it as a core for a long block.
- dave brode
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Smitty,
Glad to.
Carb and old hei would be simple, as long as:
Some newer vehicles' ecu will freak w/o input from all of the sensors and whatnots. Some of them run the dash and other features. I would research to make sure that you will not get into hassles ditching the efi.
Fwiw, I think an adapter for the throttle body would be less money and hassle.
Good luck, whatever you do.
Dave
p.s. - I put 350 flat tops in mine, had the cam reground to 203/207* at .050", .450". It runs real good, pulls nice well past 5000 now. I also swapped out the "why did they put such a loose torque convertor in these things" for a 1400-1600 stall. Lots more power, and better on gas now.
Glad to.
Carb and old hei would be simple, as long as:
Some newer vehicles' ecu will freak w/o input from all of the sensors and whatnots. Some of them run the dash and other features. I would research to make sure that you will not get into hassles ditching the efi.
Fwiw, I think an adapter for the throttle body would be less money and hassle.
Good luck, whatever you do.
Dave
p.s. - I put 350 flat tops in mine, had the cam reground to 203/207* at .050", .450". It runs real good, pulls nice well past 5000 now. I also swapped out the "why did they put such a loose torque convertor in these things" for a 1400-1600 stall. Lots more power, and better on gas now.
- SMITTY
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Nice! That must go pretty good I'd guess!
This one just has the basic gauge layout. Don't think it's tied to any computer functions, being an '89 .... but if so I'll just eliminate that by wiring the gauges direct.
As far as an adapter goes, I'd have to put one of those marine intakes on in order to do that. Those things weigh close to 75 lbs! This thing doesn't need anymore weight over the front wheels. If it shared the same heads as the '89 I'd definitely do it .... but being a true Vortec ( '00 ) I have to replace the intake manifold anyway ....
This one just has the basic gauge layout. Don't think it's tied to any computer functions, being an '89 .... but if so I'll just eliminate that by wiring the gauges direct.
As far as an adapter goes, I'd have to put one of those marine intakes on in order to do that. Those things weigh close to 75 lbs! This thing doesn't need anymore weight over the front wheels. If it shared the same heads as the '89 I'd definitely do it .... but being a true Vortec ( '00 ) I have to replace the intake manifold anyway ....
- dave brode
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Smitty,
Mine does a little better on gas, but lots more power. I must admit that if I was going for mileage, I'd leave the stock cam alone. Below 2000 chugging up a hill, it was better before.
On yours, perhaps you are thinking of the big bucks efi marine intake that serious 4.3 guys use? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCURY-MARINE-4-3 ... 2eb3269cb9
I was thinking the intakes from '96 up vortec head carb'd 4.3 marine engines. No egr [illegal!], and they look to be single planes [dual plane better for truck], but either would work carb'd or with your efi adapted to them. Note 4 straight down bolt holes;
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-3-Marine-V6-Inta ... 483efd48d8
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-4-3-Marine-V6-I ... 483efd4944
Dave
Mine does a little better on gas, but lots more power. I must admit that if I was going for mileage, I'd leave the stock cam alone. Below 2000 chugging up a hill, it was better before.
On yours, perhaps you are thinking of the big bucks efi marine intake that serious 4.3 guys use? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCURY-MARINE-4-3 ... 2eb3269cb9
I was thinking the intakes from '96 up vortec head carb'd 4.3 marine engines. No egr [illegal!], and they look to be single planes [dual plane better for truck], but either would work carb'd or with your efi adapted to them. Note 4 straight down bolt holes;
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-3-Marine-V6-Inta ... 483efd48d8
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-4-3-Marine-V6-I ... 483efd4944
Dave
- turbine
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I go to web site car-part.com or truck-part.com for part interchanges. With a little search cunning you can find what fits, (ie what starter will fit flex plate, which flex plate fits which convertor). and where to buy the parts used. or use that info to purchase new parts. I think some 4wd sites sell engine to trans adaptor plates.
- dave brode
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Good info, but he doesn't need anything to adapt the trans. The rwd 4.3s are all same [same as old V8s]
Dave
Dave
- SMITTY
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Those last 2 links (4 & 2 barrel) are the ones I was talking about. They are very heavy -- I think they're cast iron .... but whatever it's made of, it's double plus the weight of an Edelbrock. Still has at least 30 lbs over the stock one. I guess they don't care about weight on the water ...
The other issue is in order to bolt an Edelbrock carb to that, I'd have to buy an adapter plate .... so there goes the cost factor.
The other issue is in order to bolt an Edelbrock carb to that, I'd have to buy an adapter plate .... so there goes the cost factor.
- dave brode
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Smitty,
L-I-B, I didn't realize that they were iron.
I forgot about you wanting to use an afb [er, they call them edelbrocks these days - LOL]
Dave
L-I-B, I didn't realize that they were iron.
I forgot about you wanting to use an afb [er, they call them edelbrocks these days - LOL]
Dave
- LsFarm
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My 'Car that wouldn't DIE' story:
When I was going to college I had a '71 dodge dart that I bought from the local salvage yard.. it had been driven between two trees.. both sides had been 'modified' by the trees.. It was just sheet metal damage.. but the insurance had totaled it, so I bought it from the scrapyard..
It was an ugly green, like 'BellTelephone Service Truck Green'... not even olive drab.. and of course it had those wavey fenders and doors.. I still don't know why I bought it, I hated it within a month or two.
It had 85K on it, pretty lousy tires.. the 225cuin. Slant six and automatic.. little 13" wheels.. it just wasn't my style at all..
I lived 1.5 miles from the onramp to the freeway, so once on the onramp, the pedal went to the metal. and stayed there,, untill the temperature guage pegged, then I backed off the pedal 10mph to get the needle out of the red.. and I drove it that way for over a year.. usually 4 days a week to college. The tires got so bad that in the rain it would spin a rear tire when I hit a tar strip, and the tire hopped off the pavement,, I had to back off the throttle to regain traction..
I drove the car like this till it had 150K on it.. don't remember doing much but replacing the tires before I wore through all the plys in the tread..
I then gave the car to my sister.. and she changed the oil.. I put spark plugs and points in it at 200K,, and my sister sold it at 250K for $200 to be the 'first car' of one of her neighbor's kids. it lasted untill 321K.. it had never had the transmission pan off of it, and it still ran reasonably well,, but the road salt had eaten away the rear leaf spring perches on the 'unibody' frame. and it wasn't safe to drive anymore..
It was driven back to the scrap yard I'd bought it from years earlier..
Those slant six engines and torqueflight transmissions were TOUGH.. and probably masochistic..
Greg L
When I was going to college I had a '71 dodge dart that I bought from the local salvage yard.. it had been driven between two trees.. both sides had been 'modified' by the trees.. It was just sheet metal damage.. but the insurance had totaled it, so I bought it from the scrapyard..
It was an ugly green, like 'BellTelephone Service Truck Green'... not even olive drab.. and of course it had those wavey fenders and doors.. I still don't know why I bought it, I hated it within a month or two.
It had 85K on it, pretty lousy tires.. the 225cuin. Slant six and automatic.. little 13" wheels.. it just wasn't my style at all..
I lived 1.5 miles from the onramp to the freeway, so once on the onramp, the pedal went to the metal. and stayed there,, untill the temperature guage pegged, then I backed off the pedal 10mph to get the needle out of the red.. and I drove it that way for over a year.. usually 4 days a week to college. The tires got so bad that in the rain it would spin a rear tire when I hit a tar strip, and the tire hopped off the pavement,, I had to back off the throttle to regain traction..
I drove the car like this till it had 150K on it.. don't remember doing much but replacing the tires before I wore through all the plys in the tread..
I then gave the car to my sister.. and she changed the oil.. I put spark plugs and points in it at 200K,, and my sister sold it at 250K for $200 to be the 'first car' of one of her neighbor's kids. it lasted untill 321K.. it had never had the transmission pan off of it, and it still ran reasonably well,, but the road salt had eaten away the rear leaf spring perches on the 'unibody' frame. and it wasn't safe to drive anymore..
It was driven back to the scrap yard I'd bought it from years earlier..
Those slant six engines and torqueflight transmissions were TOUGH.. and probably masochistic..
Greg L
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i did not read the whole thread smitty, but i'm pretty sure the balancers and the timing covers are very different, years ago customer brought me a 86 c10 with a blown up 4.3 and an engine out of a 96 blazer.......it was more trouble than it was worth to make the newer 4.3 fit in the 86 truck......i made it run, but unfortunately his used engine was a dud......6 months later i'm installing a reman 350 in the truck
- SMITTY
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Uugh .. that sucks. I hate doing things twice.
Yeah your right - they are different ... but I will be using everything from the '00 engine, except the intake, injection & electronics.
Yeah your right - they are different ... but I will be using everything from the '00 engine, except the intake, injection & electronics.
- dave brode
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Iirc, '92 ish up has the pricier, narrower, single row t-chain req'd due to room that the balancer shaft's gears take up. There was a later change to mount a crank position sensor in the plastic cover. That sensor can just sit there and do nothing in his case.
The replacement [plastic] covers come with a plug for vehicles that don't use the sensor [see below].
http://summitracing.com/parts/RNB-635-502/
Btw, not sure about the earlier balance shafted engines, but the '95 or so up covers have a groove for a silicon seal, rather than a flat gasket like old engines. GM says to replace the cover any time it's removed. The cover comes with seal on it, so gasket kits do not have a seal for them [the seal for the balancer is sold, however???] I would recommend a new GM cover, as the Dorman covers are junk imo.
I might have been a hack job, but I reused my original. I used a bead of rtv on block and cover, quickly put the balancer on to center it, and let it sit overnight. No leaky.
As far as pulleys, afaik his will fit the later balancer. Looks like the old big bolt in center, three smaller bolt setup.
Dave
The replacement [plastic] covers come with a plug for vehicles that don't use the sensor [see below].
http://summitracing.com/parts/RNB-635-502/
Btw, not sure about the earlier balance shafted engines, but the '95 or so up covers have a groove for a silicon seal, rather than a flat gasket like old engines. GM says to replace the cover any time it's removed. The cover comes with seal on it, so gasket kits do not have a seal for them [the seal for the balancer is sold, however???] I would recommend a new GM cover, as the Dorman covers are junk imo.
I might have been a hack job, but I reused my original. I used a bead of rtv on block and cover, quickly put the balancer on to center it, and let it sit overnight. No leaky.
As far as pulleys, afaik his will fit the later balancer. Looks like the old big bolt in center, three smaller bolt setup.
Dave