What size Door Gasket for Pioneer?

Since stove gasket material is easy to come by near me, What size should I use for a Pioneer, both upper and lower (ash) doors? Also - what suggested adhesive? (not the glass gasket)

My dealer is a long drive, I suspect any good stove gasket and adhesive will work but I can't measure the original size after a couple years of faithful service.

gerry

1/8" x 5/8" Flat for the top .1/8" x 3/4" for the bottom . High temp morter for the top door and high temp RTV for the bottom .

Flyer5 wrote:1/8" x 5/8" Flat for the top .1/8" x 3/4" for the bottom . High temp mortar for the top door and high temp RTV for the bottom .

Thanks for the quick reply. I know the original gaskets were almost round with a self adhesive flat, crushed to custom fit with use. Both top and bottom appeared to have the same adhesive film used for both.

Actually, the gaskets are fine, the original adhesive has failed. Is it wise just to use new bonding material?

Is there any reason round gasket material can't be used, and if so, what size when round? Round is far easier to find.

As a segue, unless I missed it, no fun generator discussions this fall

regards

gerry

gerry_g wrote:

Flyer5 wrote:1/8" x 5/8" Flat for the top .1/8" x 3/4" for the bottom . High temp mortar for the top door and high temp RTV for the bottom .

Thanks for the quick reply. I know the original gaskets were almost round with a self adhesive flat, crushed to custom fit with use. Both top and bottom appeared to have the same adhesive film used for both.

Actually, the gaskets are fine, the original adhesive has failed. Is it wise just to use new bonding material?

Is there any reason round gasket material can't be used, and if so, what size when round? Round is far easier to find.

As a segue, unless I missed it, no fun generator discussions this fall

regards

gerry

I know people have used High Temp RTV on both doors with good results . I think what pops the old gasket and adhesive out of the door is closing the door to tightly . When closing just close the door and flip the handle over ,their is no reason to crank on the handle. The high temp morter does crack and eventually lets go if to much pressure is applied .

Flyer5 wrote:1/8" x 5/8" Flat for the top .1/8" x 3/4" for the bottom . High temp morter for the top door and high temp RTV for the bottom .

Can standard round rope gasket material be used? If so, what size?

Again, the original was not flat until "formed" in use.

regards

gerry

gerry_g wrote:

Flyer5 wrote:1/8" x 5/8" Flat for the top .1/8" x 3/4" for the bottom . High temp morter for the top door and high temp RTV for the bottom .

Can standard round rope gasket material be used? If so, what size?

Again, the original was not flat until "formed" in use.

regards

gerry

I stumbled upon both size gasket materials and a suitable selection of bonding materials at my local ACE hardware. They didn't have mortar but bonding "cement" rated at 1200F. I wonder if 800F rated High Temp RTV would be a good choice even for the top door. Actual infrared temperature measurements on my stove have never had the door metal exceed ~250F.

The problem occurred over the summer. A few spots (thus the gaskets stayed in place and could be used) stuck to the stove and pulled free when I first opened them this past fall.

Would spraying the gaskets with silicone when I prepare the stove for summer be a reasonable idea?

gerry