When you compare wood to coal, look at the BTU content. Fuel in, heat out. The rest is technique and picking you way up the learning curve. I know what you're going through as I did too. I didn't have the knowledge of the fellow form members to coach me so it took me a full season to learn to burn this fuel. I burned wood in a VC Defiant for 20+ years. I never intend to go back! BTU for BTU, coal can't be beat unless you have a lot of extra time and a cost effective (aka free!) source.
Your morning fire picture shows a "thin" fire (~ 2-3" minimum) as someone commented. The "ash" along the edged that you had to poke to get to fall down was fused. Each type of coal has a fusing point; that point at which the minerals present (ash) will begin to 'glassify' for lack of a better term. This is a sign of overfireing, closing in on 'clinkering', or the last bit of coal getting all the O^2/air and burning extra (too) hot at the end of the fuel bed. Filling the fire box has been discussed. Once you find out how often to refill, this shouldn't happen. You'll need to refill before the bed looks like it does in your picture.
After you get the shaking down and your recharging schedule figured out, it's a snap after that. I think your stove has about the same output as mine, ~50k BTU/hr with anthracite. You won't get those BTUs with wood as the fuel from the same stove. I know the videos linked below are old and poor, but it shows how I handle a thin fire in my stove. I've honed my technique a lot since then and have found much better coal too (thanks guys!). My stove is a Vermont Casting and not a Harmen and that meands a lot of different mechanics. Still, maybe some of it could help you with your stove. Couldn't hoit!
Edit/correction from below post:
CapeCoaler wrote:I thought it was a Mark III 92,000 btu/hr...8<...
- ... my bad, had a Mk II stuck in the gray matter