Warm morning advice

I have a Warm Morning 521, but I need a little advice , as I have seen a few members have similar on here hopefully they will chime in and give me some direction.
First - having trouble controlling heat doing vol phase of burning. I will shake down and break up fused red hots (about half full) then add coal to top of firebrick. leaving bottom draft barely open, top draft always closed. It will chug along but in about half hour all the coal on top catchs and my oval boot and top of stove are glowing, and there is flames going 4 feet up pipe. burned the thermostat off heat reclaimer the secont day that way. My temp above heat reclaimer runs about 300-400 during this time, boot runs about 700. After volatiles burnoff and coal has fused into big glob it runs a bit cooler, with blue flames from the chimney bricks. Is this high heat normal and or Ok, if not how can I better control it .

Set up - Warm Morning 521 - 6 " pipe - Miracle Heat Reclaimer(TSC) - 6" Baro Draft - 22' tile lined 7" square chimney
Burning baseball sized High Vol -High Sulfer Ohio Coal (Meigs Creek #9 Seam)

Sounds like an air leak...
Bit needs some over fire air to burn off the vols before the flue pipe...
So...
crack the over fire air...

Also, adjust your baro for proper draft and use a gauge to set accurately. Most hand fired run .04-.06 draft.

I don't think a baro is a good idea in a bituminous burning flue pipe,, the amount of soot would make keeping the baro properly adjusted a full time job..

I agree, introduce some above the fire air, maybe the volitiles will burn off from the begining of introduction of the fresh coal. instead of all at once creating the overtemp.

I agree that air must be getting into the stove somewhere.. check door gaskets, check sections of the stove for cracked or missing furnace cement. No amount of fuel or type of fuel can burn without oxygen.. so find the leak [s].

Greg L

Greg is correct. Take out that Barometric Damper and put in a standard pipe damper. These stoves must have a standard pipe damper to control the stove. Any cooling of the smoke will get you plenty of soot build up. I grew up with these stoves and they work great with Bituminous as that is what they are built for.
When you have a fire in the stove, get a candle or BBQ lighter or something that makes a flame. Close off the primary damper on the ash pit door. Go around the seams and where the doors meet the body of the stove and this will reveal any leaks. A leak will pull the flame into the stove through the crack. Fix any leaks with Furnace Cement.
Try this method of running your stove and see if this works better.
After you load the stove up. Cut the bottom damper to just open Barely, I mean just a sliver.
Open the top dampers partially.
Cut the pipe damper back to about 30 to 40 degrees closed. The draft on your chimney will determine how much to close the pipe damper.
Your going to get smoke until the coal burns off the hydrocarbons and you have nothing left but orange glowing carbon. Then you can close the top damper.
How much you need to adjust each damper will come with watching what the fire does. Start with the minimum of draft settings and adjust until you find the settings that work best.

In the event you want to burn anthracite in the stove, you can leave the baro in place, just cover the opening with aluminum foil to block all airflow through the flapper door. Then install a MPD above the stove, but below the baro.

Greg L

Finally getting a handle on the Warm Morning, thanks for all the advice. I agree I need to install a MPD, I think that this will help alot. As far as the baro I understand the concerns of soot but that hasnt been a problem so far, furthermore according to the Warm Morning instructions that I have seen, these stoves were actually supplied with a baro. So far I have figured out that if I only open the draft just a sliver and sprinkle a lil bit of ash on top when loading it keeps the top of the coal from catching too bad and burns most of the volatiles through the chimney bricks .

Things that dont work- overfire air, any amount of overfire air aggravates the problem of overheating. Warm Morning are designed with no door gaskets and therefore get plenty of overfire air with the slider closed.

WNY wrote:adjust your baro for proper draft and use a gauge to set accurately. Most hand fired run .04-.06 draft

I would do as WNY (Dave) suggested.
If you have the baro set to pull about .05 draft through this stove it should settle down and be easy to control.