Just Bought A Oakvale Andes 161

nortcan · Post by **nortcan** » Sun. Jan. 30, 2011 9:08 pm

dlj wrote:
nortcan wrote:dlj, an other question about your stove, are the trims on it in brass or nickel finish? On the avatar they seem to be more golden than nickel.
Really dlj your stove, Tim /Will and others having similar ones make me "jealous". Happy for you and hope to be in the Society soon. Before, I was thinking of replacing the Vigll by an antique one but actually the Vig is in a sort of fire proof cage with warm air syst outlet. All that would need too much work to change for a much higher stove so I try to find an other place for the new Antique in the house. Then I would use it as a " look at it Back-up" or in the very very coldest temps. Again the wife must accept the new bed for her, I mean for the stove.
nortcan
Nortcan, I've never seen one of these old stoves with brass finish on the trim. Doesn't mean they don't exit, just I've never seen one. You shouldn't be jealous. You should be proud of all the great work you've done on your VIGII. That's a fine stove indeed!

My trim is nickel plated cast iron. The picture was just a crappy photo I took to put something in the avatar... I wasn't paying any attention when I took it. Since you asked this question, I actually looked at my photo just to check it out, and it's a pretty poor photo of my stove indeed... I had all the trim re-plated and it came out really nice. Looking at my avatar photo and then the stove, you'd think they were two different stoves...

dj

Sorry, my English didn't mean what I wanted express: I like very much the look of your installation ,we feel the warm embiance of the room. nortcan

Post by **franco b** » Sun. Jan. 30, 2011 9:13 pm

Yes the luster will tarnish, but there is just nothing that can equal the beauty of nickle. If you have an old nickle coin you will see it just gets a dull look and does not go black like silver.

nortcan · Post by **nortcan** » Sun. Jan. 30, 2011 9:36 pm

Tim wrote:nortcan,
most all Glenwoods I have seen have 2 loading doors, the bottom one opens independantly the top one has a machined lip that the lower door seals too, so if you open the top door you are actually opening both doors at the same time, the top door on my stove has the large nickle plated "GLENWOOD OAK" plaque attached to it....I hope that makes sence.
Tim

tim
I think I did an error on the stove model: it was a Glenwood Oak Modern 116.
nortcan

dlj · Post by **dlj** » Sun. Jan. 30, 2011 9:57 pm

nortcan wrote:Is polished nickle difficult to keep bright. I mean is it like silver ,sorry I don't know how write it: I mean like plates,cups ..you have on some kitchen tables. These need a lot of work to stay shining.
nortcan

Well, my trim has gone through two heating seasons, and I can't see a difference from when I first got it re-plated. Now maybe if I had a fresh piece to put next to it I might see a difference. But it's certainly not like silver that needs polishing like what you are asking about. To my eye, the trim is still shinny and doesn't look tarnished at all, at least not yet...

dj

mal91152 · Post by **mal91152** » Mon. Jan. 31, 2011 6:06 am

Dj, how expensive was the replating of your trim and how long did they have the pieces?

swededoc · Post by **swededoc** » Mon. Jan. 31, 2011 6:44 pm

Sorry to interrupt you question to dj, Mal, but I was told by a professional rebuilder the replating cost was about $500. I may, I like to ask another question: how do the magazines work if you're not there to shake down the fire, and the ash bed gets more and more dense?

dlj · Post by **dlj** » Mon. Jan. 31, 2011 8:32 pm

swededoc wrote:Sorry to interrupt you question to dj, Mal, but I was told by a professional rebuilder the replating cost was about $500. I may, I like to ask another question: how do the magazines work if you're not there to shake down the fire, and the ash bed gets more and more dense?

Yes, that's about right for the Glenwood. It depends on how good a polish job they do, real nice, a bit more. I had mine done at the same time as having the whole stove refurbished, so the time for mine is not relevant...

I don't really know the answer yet about the magazines, but I was told the stove runs well for a good 24 hours. In really cold weather I'm getting a good 10 to 12 hours so the additional 12 hours would be really sweet. I am gone sometimes for 18 hours or so and I have to slow down the fire to be able to keep it. When it's warmer, there is no issue, I'll keep the fire for 20 + hours, but when it's cold, I need a longer burn time.

I like to walk into a nice warm house, so my times don't represent the average house... I'm also in an old fixer-upper that is slowly getting fixed up... But it' not so tight yet...

Don't forget the Glenwood also has an air feed ring around the fire box close to the top of the fire. I'd guess that once you lost some of your bottom air that top ring would keep things going nicely.

Hopefully I'll be able to answer this question before the end of this heating season, but if not, stay tuned for next winter... I will definitely have it in then...

dj

nortcan · Post by **nortcan** » Mon. Jan. 31, 2011 11:17 pm

dj, for the air entering from the ring, can you adjust it with a trap or is it fixed? These Glenwood stoves and others similar are so impressive for hi-tech. and for the look. Lot to learn from these stoves and their's owners.
nortcan

dlj · Post by **dlj** » Tue. Feb. 01, 2011 7:17 am

nortcan wrote:dj, for the air entering from the ring, can you adjust it with a trap or is it fixed? These Glenwood stoves and others similar are so impressive for hi-tech. and for the look. Lot to learn from these stoves and their's owners.
nortcan

Fixed. No adjustment on them.

dj

wsherrick · Post by **wsherrick** » Thu. Feb. 10, 2011 11:17 pm

What in the World is happening with the Andes? I was hoping we would hear about it up and running.

mal91152 · Post by **mal91152** » Fri. Feb. 11, 2011 6:36 am

Wil I been dieing to try it but there is way too much snow and ice outside my basement to get her to where I can run her. Every bit of free time is spent chopping or shoveling. Also I am afraid that if I try to move it one of us might slip and drop the stove then all my work would be for nothing. Believe me it is killing me to wait and I am not getting the heat I would like from the auto feeder. The local coal place sells junk coal as I get ~ 50 by weight in the ash. He is the only place near by or within at least 1 hour plus drive. Last year I shared a delivery from a guy and his coal was great. I had a couple of 5 gallon buckets saved and when I added to the stove, the temperature ran at least 100 degrees hotter by the gauge. The ash burned down with very little unburnt coal pieces.For sure coal is not all the same.

wsherrick · Post by **wsherrick** » Sat. Feb. 12, 2011 12:46 am

mal91152 wrote:Wil I been dieing to try it but there is way too much snow and ice outside my basement to get her to where I can run her. Every bit of free time is spent chopping or shoveling. Also I am afraid that if I try to move it one of us might slip and drop the stove then all my work would be for nothing. Believe me it is killing me to wait and I am not getting the heat I would like from the auto feeder. The local coal place sells junk coal as I get ~ 50 by weight in the ash. He is the only place near by or within at least 1 hour plus drive. Last year I shared a delivery from a guy and his coal was great. I had a couple of 5 gallon buckets saved and when I added to the stove, the temperature ran at least 100 degrees hotter by the gauge. The ash burned down with very little unburnt coal pieces.For sure coal is not all the same.

You want the best coal you can get, but; you'll be amazed to find that these Base Burners have remarkable digestions.

mal91152 · Post by **mal91152** » Sat. Feb. 12, 2011 7:40 am

I guess I will ask a stupid question. With the triangular type of grate shaker/grinder, do you rotate them to pull the material down and grind the hard ash or counter rotate to fluff so no hard pieces get stuck between? On my stove there is 4 triangular grates. You have to move the crank handle from one shaft to the second shaft and gears connect. The crank handle fits on a triangle that has flat sides to indicate the flat sides on the grate. I guess this is to return them back to a flat position.

lobsterman · Post by **lobsterman** » Sat. Feb. 12, 2011 11:24 am

This is the same grate geometry as the Glenwood. As I learned from W, shake from side to side perhaps 45 degrees in each direction a few times on each pair, does not take much at all, until you feel resistance of hard coal and as a visual check you can see red embers just begin to fall. Empty pan if you need to before you shake (not after).

wsherrick · Post by **wsherrick** » Sat. Feb. 12, 2011 1:49 pm

All you do is gently rock the grates back and forth with the primary dampers closed and the stove set to direct draft and the pipe damper open. Setting the dampers thus keeps the dust out of the house and pulls it out the chimney. You stop when you feel resistance, this is good coal on top that has settled down to the grates. Every now and then you fully rotate the grate to change which side of the triangle gets exposed to the fire. If you don't allow ash to build up under the grates and you operate the stove in a non abusive manner, then these prismatic grates should last until you are well into collecting social security. They are readily available and easily replaced if it ever becomes necessary, however.

You will also find that these grates are extremely easy to operate and best of all, very clean. Once you get the method down you can eliminate almost all of the dust infiltration into your house. You will be hard pressed to find a cleaner operating stove.