Just Bought A Oakvale Andes 161

Post Reply
 
User avatar
nortcan
Member
Posts: 3146
Joined: Sat. Feb. 20, 2010 3:32 pm
Location: Qc Canada

Post by nortcan » Sat. Jan. 29, 2011 6:42 pm

Tim wrote:paulfun,
I agree with Will on the stove being overpriced, maybe make em a CASH$ offer of $2,250 and negotiate from there?..I would say she is worth $2,500 + or -, money talks bullcrap walks.
I like that it has the magazine for sure, and for a negotiating point tell them that it is missing the indirect back pipe..from what I can see in the pics. the lower skirt has an opening where the lower cast iron U-Turn and clean out for where the pipe would set is there and there are open screw holes for mounting the indirect tube.
Even though the tube is missing the unit is still useable as is ...you will just loose a little of the efficiency in heat exchange into the room.
Good Luck!
Tim
Tim, not very much in the subject and maybe you already said it but I would like to know if your Glenwood has 1 or 2 loading door?
Thanks nortcan


 
User avatar
dlj
Member
Posts: 1273
Joined: Thu. Nov. 27, 2008 6:38 pm
Location: Monroe, NY
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vermont Castings Resolute
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Baseheater #6
Coal Size/Type: Stove coal
Other Heating: Oil Furnace, electric space heaters

Post by dlj » Sat. Jan. 29, 2011 7:47 pm

mal91152 wrote:I do not believe 7" is a common size. 6 or 8" is all I might be able to get. It looks as though the cast one has a bell at the top to fit in the spot where the lid is. Am I correct?
It has a lip that sits under the top lid. If you look in the top, there is a second step below the top plate. So the top plate stays there just like without. The magazine hangs from that second step. The bottom bells out, or flares out, is my understanding. That flare is a diameter that will slide in from the top. So the whole magazine drops in from the top of the stove and hangs from the top of the stove. I don't think the bottom flare makes much difference really. I wasn't planning on having it on my prototype. If the prototype works well, I'll make up a mold to have the piece cast. The original was made in two pieces and bolted together.

6" is too small. 8" is too big, but as Greg said, 8" could be cut and re-sized.

dj

 
User avatar
dlj
Member
Posts: 1273
Joined: Thu. Nov. 27, 2008 6:38 pm
Location: Monroe, NY
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vermont Castings Resolute
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Baseheater #6
Coal Size/Type: Stove coal
Other Heating: Oil Furnace, electric space heaters

Post by dlj » Sat. Jan. 29, 2011 7:50 pm

nortcan wrote: dlj, does your stove have the magazine in it?
nortcan
Not yet... But I might before the end of this heating season. If not, I will have one for next year...

dj

 
User avatar
EarthWindandFire
Member
Posts: 1594
Joined: Sat. Dec. 18, 2010 12:02 pm
Location: Connecticut
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Leisure Line Lil' Heater.
Other Heating: Oil Furnace and Kerosene Heaters.

Post by EarthWindandFire » Sat. Jan. 29, 2011 7:54 pm

I would be tempted to try installing a DHW coil inside of that magazine.

Maybe a model 18S from Hilkoil would work? The coil measures 18" long by 7" wide.

Obviously would not look good sticking out the top of a stove located in a living room. :roll:

 
User avatar
dlj
Member
Posts: 1273
Joined: Thu. Nov. 27, 2008 6:38 pm
Location: Monroe, NY
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vermont Castings Resolute
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Baseheater #6
Coal Size/Type: Stove coal
Other Heating: Oil Furnace, electric space heaters

Post by dlj » Sat. Jan. 29, 2011 7:58 pm

EarthWindandFire wrote:I would be tempted to try installing a DHW coil inside of that magazine.

Maybe a model 18S from Hilkoil would work? The coil measures 18" long by 7" wide.

Obviously would not look good sticking out the top of a stove located in a living room. :roll:
Actually, I've often thought of wrapping the base under the bottom skirt with water coils. You'd hardly see it, wouldn't have to drill any holes in the stove and aught to provide decent hot water. That would give quite a bit of surface area for heating the water. But as you point out, sitting in my living room doesn't lend itself to those kinds of mods well...

dj

 
User avatar
Tim
Member
Posts: 326
Joined: Wed. Apr. 15, 2009 8:49 am
Location: Grampian, PA

Post by Tim » Sun. Jan. 30, 2011 4:13 am

nortcan,
most all Glenwoods I have seen have 2 loading doors, the bottom one opens independantly the top one has a machined lip that the lower door seals too, so if you open the top door you are actually opening both doors at the same time, the top door on my stove has the large nickle plated "GLENWOOD OAK" plaque attached to it....I hope that makes sence.
Tim

 
User avatar
nortcan
Member
Posts: 3146
Joined: Sat. Feb. 20, 2010 3:32 pm
Location: Qc Canada

Post by nortcan » Sun. Jan. 30, 2011 9:41 am

dlj wrote:
EarthWindandFire wrote:I would be tempted to try installing a DHW coil inside of that magazine.

Maybe a model 18S from Hilkoil would work? The coil measures 18" long by 7" wide.

Obviously would not look good sticking out the top of a stove located in a living room. :roll:
Actually, I've often thought of wrapping the base under the bottom skirt with water coils. You'd hardly see it, wouldn't have to drill any holes in the stove and aught to provide decent hot water. That would give quite a bit of surface area for heating the water. But as you point out, sitting in my living room doesn't lend itself to those kinds of mods well...

dj
Super idea these water warmers.
Just curious but do you think the water could get the gasses so cold that it could stop the chimney's draft?


 
User avatar
nortcan
Member
Posts: 3146
Joined: Sat. Feb. 20, 2010 3:32 pm
Location: Qc Canada

Post by nortcan » Sun. Jan. 30, 2011 9:47 am

Tim wrote:nortcan,
most all Glenwoods I have seen have 2 loading doors, the bottom one opens independantly the top one has a machined lip that the lower door seals too, so if you open the top door you are actually opening both doors at the same time, the top door on my stove has the large nickle plated "GLENWOOD OAK" plaque attached to it....I hope that makes sence.
Tim

Tim, the Glenwood I saw last week had just one door, when you open it there is a sort of flapper door at the top. The seller of the stove told me it was to help when entering big pieces of wood,curious??? It was a Glenwood Oak wood No 116.
nortcan

 
User avatar
dlj
Member
Posts: 1273
Joined: Thu. Nov. 27, 2008 6:38 pm
Location: Monroe, NY
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vermont Castings Resolute
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Baseheater #6
Coal Size/Type: Stove coal
Other Heating: Oil Furnace, electric space heaters

Post by dlj » Sun. Jan. 30, 2011 10:19 am

nortcan wrote:
dlj wrote: Actually, I've often thought of wrapping the base under the bottom skirt with water coils. You'd hardly see it, wouldn't have to drill any holes in the stove and aught to provide decent hot water. That would give quite a bit of surface area for heating the water. But as you point out, sitting in my living room doesn't lend itself to those kinds of mods well...

dj
Super idea these water warmers.
Just curious but do you think the water could get the gasses so cold that it could stop the chimney's draft?
Not at all. I would not wrap the chimney, rather the outside of the fire box. I don't think that would affect the stoves function much at all...

dj

 
mason coal burner
Member
Posts: 797
Joined: Sun. Sep. 27, 2009 12:25 pm
Location: so. nh

Post by mason coal burner » Sun. Jan. 30, 2011 10:59 am

the stove shop that restored my stove has there own roller . they can make any size pipe you need . regular steel or stainless steel . they use very heavy guage steel . not sure what size but it is about 2 x as thick as what you get from the hardware store . Ericson stove shop Littleton MA . they made a SS flue pipe for a pizza oven we did . they cut piece 1 inch bigger than need be . rolled it . held it together with rivets .

 
User avatar
nortcan
Member
Posts: 3146
Joined: Sat. Feb. 20, 2010 3:32 pm
Location: Qc Canada

Post by nortcan » Sun. Jan. 30, 2011 11:16 am

dlj, an other question about your stove, are the trims on it in brass or nickel finish? On the avatar they seem to be more golden than nickel.
Really dlj your stove, Tim /Will and others having similar ones make me "jealous". Happy for you and hope to be in the Society soon. Before, I was thinking of replacing the Vigll by an antique one but actually the Vig is in a sort of fire proof cage with warm air syst outlet. All that would need too much work to change for a much higher stove so I try to find an other place for the new Antique in the house. Then I would use it as a " look at it Back-up" or in the very very coldest temps. Again the wife must accept the new bed for her, I mean for the stove.
nortcan

 
User avatar
dlj
Member
Posts: 1273
Joined: Thu. Nov. 27, 2008 6:38 pm
Location: Monroe, NY
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vermont Castings Resolute
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Baseheater #6
Coal Size/Type: Stove coal
Other Heating: Oil Furnace, electric space heaters

Post by dlj » Sun. Jan. 30, 2011 3:13 pm

nortcan wrote:dlj, an other question about your stove, are the trims on it in brass or nickel finish? On the avatar they seem to be more golden than nickel.
Really dlj your stove, Tim /Will and others having similar ones make me "jealous". Happy for you and hope to be in the Society soon. Before, I was thinking of replacing the Vigll by an antique one but actually the Vig is in a sort of fire proof cage with warm air syst outlet. All that would need too much work to change for a much higher stove so I try to find an other place for the new Antique in the house. Then I would use it as a " look at it Back-up" or in the very very coldest temps. Again the wife must accept the new bed for her, I mean for the stove.
nortcan
Nortcan, I've never seen one of these old stoves with brass finish on the trim. Doesn't mean they don't exit, just I've never seen one. You shouldn't be jealous. You should be proud of all the great work you've done on your VIGII. That's a fine stove indeed!

My trim is nickel plated cast iron. The picture was just a crappy photo I took to put something in the avatar... I wasn't paying any attention when I took it. Since you asked this question, I actually looked at my photo just to check it out, and it's a pretty poor photo of my stove indeed... I had all the trim re-plated and it came out really nice. Looking at my avatar photo and then the stove, you'd think they were two different stoves...

dj

 
User avatar
dlj
Member
Posts: 1273
Joined: Thu. Nov. 27, 2008 6:38 pm
Location: Monroe, NY
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vermont Castings Resolute
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Baseheater #6
Coal Size/Type: Stove coal
Other Heating: Oil Furnace, electric space heaters

Post by dlj » Sun. Jan. 30, 2011 3:18 pm

mason coal burner wrote:the stove shop that restored my stove has there own roller . they can make any size pipe you need . regular steel or stainless steel . they use very heavy guage steel . not sure what size but it is about 2 x as thick as what you get from the hardware store . Ericson stove shop Littleton MA . they made a SS flue pipe for a pizza oven we did . they cut piece 1 inch bigger than need be . rolled it . held it together with rivets .
Hmm, I was thinking about darned close to 1/4" thick. That would be darned tough to roll. I think you'd have to roll it hot. I could call them and see how thick they could make it. That's worth a phone call for sure...

dj

 
User avatar
LsFarm
Member
Posts: 7383
Joined: Sun. Nov. 20, 2005 8:02 pm
Location: Michigan
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

Post by LsFarm » Sun. Jan. 30, 2011 3:20 pm

Nickle is a yellow-gold color, but a very bright 'thin' yellow, Chrome is a blue-black color.. when you put them side by side the difference is very noticable..
Polished brass is more of a red-orange color..

Polished Nickle is a very 'warm' looking plating.. Chrome is a cold blue-black..

Greg L

 
User avatar
nortcan
Member
Posts: 3146
Joined: Sat. Feb. 20, 2010 3:32 pm
Location: Qc Canada

Post by nortcan » Sun. Jan. 30, 2011 9:00 pm

Is polished nickle difficult to keep bright. I mean is it like silver ,sorry I don't know how write it: I mean like plates,cups ..you have on some kitchen tables. These need a lot of work to stay shining.
nortcan


Post Reply

Return to “Antiques, Baseburners, Kitchen Stoves, Restorations & Modern Reproductions”