Clayton 1600 not getting hot

Doug, I checked the panels this morning ther is no insulation on any of them. Also the welds seem fine, no paint discoloration or any thing like that on the panels. I looked at the parts diagram, they don't show any foil insulation on the panels. The only foil back insulation is on the cabinet top. Could this be what is making me crazy, a couple pieces of insulation? I did see in the maual for the hot water coil installation that is says tocut away a section of insulation (if so equipped) directly behind the access panel. Sounds like some furnaces are insulated others are not or it's a genereric install guide. Also this is a model 1602m, I started the threat with the wrong model number.
So if adding insulation will help,where would i get it and how would i attach it? Looks like both sides and rear need it. Also dumb me the blower motor on the cooler side was running, so it would be a lil cooler. I did but a thermo on both sides at the time 250 right 350 left.

Thanks
Liz

There are stick pins supposed to be tacked to the inside of the furnace jacket panels. The foil backed insulation is attached using the pins and a metal tab which holds the insulation. The insulation is available through Usstove. I've purchased replacement insulation in the past and did notice a big difference with the heat produced. All of the Usstove 1600 series furnaces should come from the factory with insulation. I don't know why you are missing yours. Installing the insulation should make better heat though the supply duct.

Hey Doug,

the 1600m does not come with insulation no tacked on pins inside the panels. I called US Stove to see if I could get the insulation panels from the 1602r becasue they seem to be identical and they want to sell me the draft inducer kit. I the inslulation I was told would interfer with the radiated heat from the fire box and that the dual blowers will blow all the radiated heat out. When I said I had issues with getting the furnace up to temperature and that we are drafting .08 they told me I need to force more air through the coal and the draft inducer would do it. I told here that the air would get over the coal and put it out, she insited this is what we need to do. 60 dollars of insulation or 200 for the inducer help me decide.

One other question...how many pounds of coal can you fit in your firebox......just curious because they said 160lbs of coal.... I get to 100 and I am up to the fire brick.

I am really just plan old frustrated...my oil furnace is 125000 btu and can warm it up to 90 degrees in there, and my ratty old double barrell stove kept toasty in the 30x30 part and when I opened the whole place up to 100x30 would make up a 30 degree temp differential.

I also bumped the temp up in there to 65 degrees last nite no help.


Totally frustrated at this point

I'm surprised that they said the 1602 doesn't come with insulation. That is news to me. Maybe they changed the jacket design or eliminated it to keep the cost down.

To be honest with you, the Clayton kind of sucks for anthracite coal burning, unless you only want moderate heat and burn times.

Where the Clayton does shine and perform very well, is for burning hard wood and bituminous coal.

So, my recommendation is to get the draft kit and change your fuel to a mix of hard wood and bituminous coal. Then you'll get the temperatures and the burn times you desire.

I usually line the sides of the fire box with split hard wood, then load between the logs heaping with bituminous coal. I set set the ash door draft, turn up the wall thermostat, turn the combustion draft fan on, and enjoy the heat. This only works with bituminous coal. Anthracite just forges into one big clinker. The bituminous coal smokes some, turns into coke, and then into a lot of ash powder.

With as much success I've had burning anthracite coal in a Clayton, it is my opinion that it isn't well designed to burn anthracite coal. The Clayton does and will do well burning wood or bituminous coal, because it's design favors good burning of this fuel.

To answer your question on how much coal it will hold, I have found that the Clayton 1600 furnace will hold about 120 pounds.

Doug,

I appreciate your time and thought on this.....I found a heating contractor supply that has the insulation so I am going to go there next week.

I have one more question then this thread can die, lol and I am off to the emergency room (have something in my eye...if it's a fleck of coal I will scream).

When you use the slide baffle do you completely close it?? I been burning the last of my coal and I let it open a lil bit. The stack is now at 400 and the temp on above the feed door is 550. I just figure I have tweaked and adjusted everything else why not open it a lil bit. It maybe working or this furance could be taunting me into buying more coal.

That is all, listen in about an hour or so you will prolly hear a scream.

Thanks for your help

Liz

The slide baffle above the feed door should remain pushed in other than when the feed door is open or you are initally staring the fire. The slide baffle rides on top of the fire brick placed in top of the fire box to increase the gas flow path in order to increase the length of time in the fire box. So by leaving the slide baffle rod out, you are letting the gases have a direct path up the chimney and this will cool the fire temperatures.

See your heating contractor for what they call adhesive stick pins. You can mount them on the inside of the furnace jacket, then push the insulation so the pin goes though, and cap the pin with the metal clip. Make sure that the insulation is rated for the heat. I'm sure if your heating contractor knows where you intend to use it, he will provide you with the proper stuff.

Ok I think we have a Eureka moment....I fired her up one last time on coal decided to start earlier in the day and keep an eye on it. Soooooooo....was burning good 630 on thermo above the door go figure we left the outside door open becasue it was getting hot and as the sun was setting my oil furnace kicked on, Well we closed the door and the temp held for a bit. Then the oil furnace kicked on again, we had bumped the temp up on it. The coal furnace temp started dropping fast so we put a pipe to ash pan damper and there ya go....burning at 580 atm with a stack of 410.

Now a new question, what is the idea size pipe that should be run to the ash pan door? It's about a an 8' run with a 90 in it maybe 2 90's.

We didn't think combustion air was necessary since it isn't tight, didn't think of the oil furnace though.

Not giving up yet

Thanks again
Liz

Earlier I said that I'm using a 4" pipe though a glass block window, once used for venting a dryer. It works well in my situation. So I would say using a 3" or 4" pvc, or metal solid or flex pipe would be sufficient. Amazing! The oil furnace sucked that much. I guess that your tent is tighter than you thought? Good find. Let us know how she burns now. I bet you'll have it going good now.

I have a friend who is having a hell of a time getting his Clayton to get heat from. He had it wide open today and when I opened the door the fire was a gentle glow..like my Harman MkIII turned down almost shut. He just ordered a blower and installed in between the loading door and the bottom door. I took a match and held it against the bottom intake adjuster and air was coming out blowing out the match so we shut that down and the fire perked up in a matter of minutes. I told him to try that and see it he can get some heat that way. He's burning Antracite Nut and though he hasn't lost a fire in a month or more he just hasn't been getting heat out of it. His house is very small too.
He isn't PC savy so I'm working on his wife to get online here and try to get some answers.

many members have had problems burning anthracite in the US Stoves. try this thread also
successfully burning anthracite coal in a clayton furnace
HotBlast 1500 coal burning newbee help