Magee Crown #112

nortcan · By: **nortcan** On: Fri Jan 14, 2011 11:17 am

Very happy for you. Take care of it.
nortcan

ashburnham55 · By: **ashburnham55** On: Sun Jan 16, 2011 5:00 pm

Adding some pictures.

wsherrick · By: **wsherrick** On: Sun Jan 16, 2011 7:55 pm

You got it cleaned up really nice. This stove has beautiful lines to it and it is extremely attractive. I can't wait to see it hooked up and hear about how it runs.

nortcan · By: **nortcan** On: Sun Jan 16, 2011 8:18 pm

I wold like to know if the grate syst. works like the one in a Chubby stove? I mean how does it work?
Thanks nortcan

wsherrick · By: **wsherrick** On: Sun Jan 16, 2011 8:43 pm

nortcan wrote:I wold like to know if the grate syst. works like the one in a Chubby stove? I mean how does it work?
Thanks nortcan

No it doesn't work anything like the Chubby. This stove has what is called an, "annular grate," It is very common the whole grate rests on a round slide and you can rotate back and forth to shake out the ashes and the center pulls all the way out to dump and clean the fire.
The picture from above here is decieving. The outer ring that you see is NOT part of the grate. That outer ring is on top of the firepot. This is the vent from which the gasses exit the combustion chamber, go down AROUND the firepot, down through the base burning chamber and then back up the rear pipe to exit.

ashburnham55 · By: **ashburnham55** On: Sun Jan 16, 2011 9:22 pm

Norcan,

I am glad that Will jumped in because I have no idea how this grate or any other grate works for that matter. lol

I found some left over coal ash in the bottom of the ash door that was as fine as baby powder... I can not wrap my mind around how this is possible with the large gaps in the grate.. I placed a quarter on top of the grate so you could see just how large the gaps are.

Will,
Could you explain this a little better so I can understand it?

wsherrick · By: **wsherrick** On: Sun Jan 16, 2011 11:27 pm

ashburnham55 wrote:Norcan,

I am glad that Will jumped in because I have no idea how this grate or any other grate works for that matter. lol

I found some left over coal ash in the bottom of the ash door that was as fine as baby powder... I can not wrap my mind around how this is possible with the large gaps in the grate.. I placed a quarter on top of the grate so you could see just how large the gaps are.

Will,
Could you explain this a little better so I can understand it?

These stoves burn the coal totally and completely until it is absolutely consumed. All you have to do is gently shake the grate back and forth and the powder falls out. Now you can shake out bigger chunks if you over do it, but; you will learn. I haven't seen the inside of the ash pit yet, but; you should have a sliding damper down there that opens the base burning chamber to the ash pit. This allows coal gas that got away the first time to get burned in a second trip through the fire, this allows the bed temperature of the fire to remain well above the ignition temperature of the fixed carbon consistently throughout the whole fire bed instead of having hot and cool spots. The coal will lay there until it is ALL gone. The combustion efficiency of these stoves is unmatched. I'm telling you now so believe me later,

you have a masterpiece of engineering there.

ashburnham55 · By: **ashburnham55** On: Mon Jan 17, 2011 12:26 am

So now you have got my attention --> hahaha

Could you tell me about refractory cement? Will I need to put a new liner in or is the one in place good to go as is?
As far as I can tell there are no cracks and I do not see any major damage to the fire pot, but then again I do not have the experience know what is acceptable and what is not.

wsherrick · By: **wsherrick** On: Mon Jan 17, 2011 12:51 am

If the Refractory Liner is sound, there should be no need to replace it. What you do need to do thoroughly check the whole stove out to see if there are any leaks in the seams. Generally when somebody gets a stove that hasn't been used in many decades, I advise that it be taken apart and put back together with new cement and new stove bolts. This assures that the seams will be air tight and the stove will perform like it is supposed to and above all be safe to operate. This procedure also allows all the parts to be inspected to make sure there are no hidden cracked or broken castings. Many times this might not be needed, but; at the very least you must test the stove for leaks. The best way to do this is have a fire in the stove and then check the seams with a candle or some thing that makes a flame. If the flame gets sucked into a spot, there is leak there. Most times a finger full of Furnace Cement will fix it.

Tim · By: **Tim** On: Mon Jan 17, 2011 4:14 am

WOW!....she sure came out nice!
You did a great job shining up the nickle trim, what did you use to polish it?
Looking forward too seein her with a fire.
Enjoy!
Tim

ashburnham55 · By: **ashburnham55** On: Mon Jan 17, 2011 9:35 am

I took your advise and used Brasso and it shined right up --> thank you !
I was shocked to see how it came back to life.

I need to replace the oval stove pipe on the rear of the stove as it is damaged beyond repair. I believe it is a 6" pipe but not to sure. Would you know where I could find a 4' section?

wsherrick · By: **wsherrick** On: Mon Jan 17, 2011 3:05 pm

ashburnham55 wrote:I took your advise and used Brasso and it shined right up --> thank you !
I was shocked to see how it came back to life.

I need to replace the oval stove pipe on the rear of the stove as it is damaged beyond repair. I believe it is a 6" pipe but not to sure. Would you know where I could find a 4' section?

Call Doug at Barnstable Stove Shop. He can sell you one or tell you where to get one.

Tim · By: **Tim** On: Tue Jan 18, 2011 8:47 am

X2 what William said

ashburnham55 · By: **ashburnham55** On: Mon Oct 24, 2011 7:52 pm

I decided to rip the stove apart and reseal it with furnace cement just to be safe. I ended up breaking the stove down about three weeks ago and I am glad I did. The steel barrel was petty thin back of the fire pot so I ended up having another steel barrell made. While apart I had the opputunity to take a wire wheel to all of the many parts and I finnally have the base resealed and back together. Taking apart the stove was easy compaired to the jigsaw puzzle i ended up with when putting it back together but enjoying every minute of it. I am working my way up the stove and I still have to finish cutting the pipe opening opening on the rear of the barrel. Once down I will tear it back down to base so I can polish the barrel and then seal her up. I still have to pour a linning and order the mica. I am also still missing a few parts that I need to locate or have fabracated. Still missing a 8.25" lid and an cast iron oval pipe cover like the one in the 2nd picture below. (I found a picture of one online)

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wsherrick · By: **wsherrick** On: Mon Oct 24, 2011 8:35 pm

Looks like you are doing a bang up job there. I have just started using the Glenwood No 9 base heater in my living room and it has exceeded my expectations for it by quite a margin. It is the exact same design as yours but a bit smaller. You will be very happy with this stove.
If you must, then you can get a steel fabricator to make the cap for the back pipe, but; hopefully you can get an original one.

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