Buderus Juno Install

 
rberq
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 1300 with hopper
Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Anthracite Nut
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Post by rberq » Sat. Dec. 10, 2011 9:52 am

blizzard87 wrote:I think someone had mentioned that I can put in a mpd. should I do that on this stove to try to get more heat output
MPD? IMHO, NO.


 
franco b
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Post by franco b » Sat. Dec. 10, 2011 10:14 am

Maybe yes, maybe no, but not if your CO detector has been going off.

 
blizzard87
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Post by blizzard87 » Sat. Dec. 10, 2011 6:31 pm

Another update. Stove ran great all day, got the fire cooking again shook it down a little this morn, used the tool in the grate as suggested and topped off with a couple shovels. I did one more shake tonight and cleared grate a little again that is where I ran into my previous problem the last time. Really did not have to top it off it did not use that much coal during the day today. All around temp in house was 70 between first fl. and second. She cruises along at about 150 stack temp. I will go through this winter with this stove and learn but I will definitely be looking for a larger heat output stove for next year. As stated my stove is on the small side and too small for what I want it to do especially when it really gets cold out. Any suggestions for a larger hand fired ? But I know that would be a totally different discussion . I now have the coal bug!. LOL

 
franco b
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Post by franco b » Sat. Dec. 10, 2011 8:38 pm

You are in a good position in not needing a stove right away.

check craigslist every day. If you have the chimney you could consider a second stove.

An antique in good shape would also be good.

 
blizzard87
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Post by blizzard87 » Sat. Dec. 10, 2011 9:16 pm

This is what I have come across. I found that coles hot blast, but from what I can see it does not say original anywhere on the stove and I guess there have been some copies through the years and they do not burn the same but they only want 100 bucks for it. I did post some pictures. And I also came across a buderus 3515 brand new in crate for 250. the buderus is 20k BTU more than my stove. I would like to try a chubby but what I come across is a lot of money for junk. I know the quality is there for the buderus but heat outputs are low. I have put a heat gun at my stove and the doors are abot 250-260 deg. and sides are at 170. top of stove by grill at@ 275. so I guess between the fire brick inside and the metal covers on side it insulates pretty well but as for the radiant part of it, it hampers it. I have been running on 3 auto but bumped it up to 4 now.

 
rberq
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Joined: Mon. Apr. 16, 2007 9:34 pm
Location: Central Maine
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 1300 with hopper
Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Anthracite Nut
Other Heating: Oil hot water radiators (fuel oil); propane

Post by rberq » Sun. Dec. 11, 2011 9:06 am

blizzard87 wrote:doors are abot 250-260 deg. and sides are at 170. top of stove by grill at@ 275. so I guess between the fire brick inside and the metal covers on side it insulates pretty well but as for the radiant part of it, it hampers it.
If the top has an open grill, then I don't think the outer surface of the stove are supposed to be all that hot. It is not intended to be a radiant stove. It sounds like a circulator stove. That is, air flows and is heated between the firebox and the outer shell and convection carries the hot air out the top. If you measured the firebox sides I bet they are WAY more than 170 degrees. I used to have a wood stove built on this principle and it was an excellent heater, no fan needed to circulate the hot air because the stove does it naturally.

 
blizzard87
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Post by blizzard87 » Wed. Dec. 21, 2011 7:20 pm

franco b wrote:First realize that this is a small stove. The German output rating is 5000k cal. or about 20,000 BTU. It is not hopper fed like the Pluto but is a standard type batch fed stove. Ash pan is good size. The shaker mechanism is the usual ricky ticky mostly useless European type, but this can be easily overcome by using a flat knife like poker to slice the grate through the front grate which works well. The thermostat is unique in that there is a position to use it in a manual manner if desired. Like the Godin stoves the combustion air is free to migrate into the front grate and the burn pattern is somewhat front to back which again like the Godin, leads to bridging of the coal. It has a setting via a sliding control for secondary air. Tend every 12 hours.

It is an easy stove to use. In use the stove is gradually filled to the top with either pea or nut coal with nut being freer to breath and hotter fire. Again like the Godin stoves it is totally lined with firebrick and in addition has a firebrick baffle at the top. Because there is little heat exchange surface leading to high stack temperature, it is a must that a barometric damper be installed to control excess draft and keep down fly ash as well as avoiding wasting heat. The thermostat will work better as well if it does not have to control high draft. Close that bottom door very tight. Crack top door when shaking down.

I used one of these stoves for over a month in the fall and liked it, but needed a bigger stove. I did not install a barometric damper and found fly ash to be excessive and the thermostat to be somewhat sluggish. I believe too high draft to be the cause.
Hey Franco, everything has been running great with this stove, been running 12-days straight and only into my 8th bag of coal. If it was my pellet stove it would have been 16-bags but question I have is the secondary air is half closed or half open, should I leave it like that or close it completely ? would it hamper or improve. tx. Blizzard


 
franco b
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Coal Size/Type: nut and pea

Post by franco b » Wed. Dec. 21, 2011 8:42 pm

I would prefer to leave it half open. You have a 12 inch deep fire pot which can generate a lot of gasses at loading time and also carbon monoxide during the burn. A bit of over fire air can only help to burn them and also much reduce any chance of puff back. You are doing well with it so why fool with success?

 
blizzard87
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Post by blizzard87 » Thu. Dec. 22, 2011 5:24 am

Thanks again, will leave it. The stove seems to stay around 200 right before my tee with the setting at 3 and my pipe into chimney is around 135. basement is at 77 been a little warmer here past cple days. I just did not know what kind of control that slider might have had with the fire. I think I have pretty much went through my initiation with being a newbie coal burner. Had trouble starting a fire, lost a fire, and had a small puff back that scared the heck out me a few days back only because I rushed to fill the stove and then opened door back up too soon. So I could have just imagined if that slider was completely closed what could have happened. Blizzard

 
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Post by blizzard87 » Sat. Jan. 14, 2012 7:00 am

Went to tend stove this morning after nice long overnight burn and when I opened door to toss in a couple scoops, I noticed cracks starting on the walls of the modular fire brick in some areas. Should I shut it down and cement up or leave alone. So far they look like hairline cracks. No co's are going off, stove never put on manual or higher than temp setting 3. thanks bliz

 
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I'm On Fire
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Post by I'm On Fire » Sat. Jan. 14, 2012 7:15 am

I'm not sure, and if I'm wrong someone will correct me. But, as long as the brick agent disintegrating and are still close together I wouldn't worry about it. I'm on my second season with the DS and I didn't touch any of the brick.

 
blizzard87
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Post by blizzard87 » Sat. Jan. 14, 2012 7:18 am

I'm On Fire wrote:I'm not sure, and if I'm wrong someone will correct me. But, as long as the brick agent disintegrating and are still close together I wouldn't worry about it. I'm on my second season with the DS and I didn't touch any of the brick.
so far they are just hairline so I will just keep a eye on it. By the way how do you like your ds?

 
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lowfog01
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Post by lowfog01 » Sat. Jan. 14, 2012 7:31 am

I wouldn't worry about a hairline crack in the fire brick. It may not even go through the entire brick. Keep an eye on it like you said and if the top half falls in the fire, replace it. If not, wait until after the season and then replace it. I usually end up replacing one or two of my bricks for hairline cracks every year. They are pretty cheap. Take care, Lisa

 
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Post by I'm On Fire » Sat. Jan. 14, 2012 7:32 am

It keeps me and my family toasty warm. Also keeps the oil man away. Best purchase I've ever made I'd recommend one of these stoves to anyone.

 
blizzard87
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Post by blizzard87 » Sat. Jan. 14, 2012 7:40 am

I'm On Fire wrote:It keeps me and my family toasty warm. Also keeps the oil man away. Best purchase I've ever made I'd recommend one of these stoves to anyone.
I now see quite a few people buying these stoves on this forum and they love them. It has not been that cold here yet in ct. not much of a winter. I am waiting to get some parts for my chubby when back together I will be taking out the buderus and installing the chub. I think it should fare well for my needs but if it falls short I will be considering a ds. and put the chubby upstairs.


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