kruppie wrote:Thank You very much for the replies.
I am going to take the advice you have given. My hopper is in mid position, will be set to high this afternoon. My knob and fresh air damper is probably grossly misadjusted. I believe I also have made another observation. The 'pot' on my FB is warped in the front, common on this stove. This opens a gap between it and its support. This gap will effectively let air bypass the coal bed and go up the stack. That effect is probably minimal when the burn starts but as the ashes build more air would tend to take this shortcut [path of least resistance] cutting combustion AND diluting the hot exhaust, thereby cooling the stack, further triggering the vicious cycle I seem to be getting stuck in. My chimney is brick with a is 6" terra cotta flue located on the outside of the house. One of you guys spoke of stack temperature. If it is possible could you tell me its temperature when you are burning at a moderate rate? Or any temperature on the stove. I have a thermocouple connected to a multimeter, which is accurate and tolerant to several hundred degrees. I just would like a point of reference, I am nearly color blind so 'orange' coal means nothing to me, hot also seems quite subjective. I mean in November I installed a barometric damper in the stack and the bar code sticker from the hardware store is still on it and shows only minor browning. Thank You again because I am not getting a full nights rest with this thing and this Thursday they have predicted below zero weather here in PA, would be really nice to have this thing humming along while sleeping, peacefully.
capecoal wrote:I own a FB 10.1475 and I recently my CO detectors are going off. I recently bought a new detector just in case my old one was sending out false alarms. I checked my stove and all gaskets and connections seem OK. I get good draft so the flue seems OK. The only thing I notice is that the front glass door does not close as tightly as before but it still closes OK. I have been putting aluminum foil over the glass internally to keep it clean while starting the fire (recommended in manual) and thought that this may have compressed the gasket surrounding the door. Also would an incorrect setting on my damper allow small amounts of CO to enter the room setting off the detectors? I have them well away from the unit as well.
Another question is there a way to adjust the door latch so that it pulls the door shut more tightly.
Thanks----Joe at Capecoal
kruppie wrote:Thank You Richard
The front opening I have sealed (this afternoon) with a woven fiberglass strip we use on our boilers at work. I stuffed it down into the gap and we'll see. I am going to probe the stack temperature soon here. I also found the fresh air damper was adjusted such that my numbers were half. The position at 8 is now at 4. So therefore as I was advised in this great forum another guy was running his at about 4.5 I would need a 9 with my existing settings. Currently I am set for 5 and the temperature at the point where the sheet metal top section meets the left side panel ranges from 156.7 to 167. In all likelihood there is sustained oscillation in the fresh air damper as it regulates. I guess as this thing loads up with ash the fresh air damper slowly opens to allow more air ingress. I am temped to do a time-lapse photo shoot of it. Anyway I got this thing lit at 4 pm today and we'll se how it does through the night. And I also noticed that I don't need to clean the glass with oven cleaner, seems it cleans itself (from a black to a cloudy anyway), the coal fire burns the creosote from the wood starter fire.
I Thank All you folks in here, I need a good nights rest, not worrying about this thing going out and setting off the CO monitors
Just took a look at the adjustments you mentioned. I found the square headed lock bolt (about 4-5mm) at right angles to the latch bolt, and I will try to free it up and adjust. Just one question, in your explanation you mention that the latch pivots on an "eccentric bolt". Is this what appears to be a slotted flat head screw that holds the latch onto the door? If so I will have to free it up as well.
Got it! The set screw was not frozen and I was able to adjust the handle to tighten the door. Once again thank you-----Joe
capecoal wrote:Hi Richard,
thanks for the tip on raising the hopper to its highest setting in my FB stove, it works great now on settings 4-5 as you suggested. One other problem I am having and that is once in awhile my CO detector goes off especially when there is weather change and a low pressure front moves through. Can I attribute the problem to the weather change or do you think I should investigate the stove fitting for gaps. The stack, doors, window, all seem tight so I am open for suggestions as I really dont want to fool with carbon monoxide situation.
Many thanks for all you help,
capecoal wrote:Yes, I do get some sulphur smell. The CO alarms went off when the fire started to die out. For some reason the fire was going great for 4 days without a problem and then it just started to die even with cranking the setting to 8 and allowing some air in the lower ash door.
I will try some of you tips on finding the leak if there is one. I will try the incense stick trick. I will take the side panels off but I cannot get the bolts on the side cover baffles off. They are set tight. My local dealer said that typically these will snap off so what he does is to get a long hose that he attaches to his shop vac and snakes it around the curve in the side flues. Really dont want to do this till spring but I just may have to if my CO detector keeps going off.
Will let you know----Thanks===Joe