Keystoker HF 90 in basement

Most have a weight on the inside with a knurled nut on the outside. Normally it's closed but on a windy day, you dial it till you can tap it with your finger and it's almost balanced or floating but still on the closed side. Then as the wind gusts it pulls it open and slows your draft.

SteveZee wrote:Most have a weight on the inside with a knurled nut on the outside. Normally it's closed but on a windy day, you dial it till you can tap it with your finger and it's almost balanced or floating but still on the closed side. Then as the wind gusts it pulls it open and slows your draft.

Ahh, I see. Makes sense to calibrate when it's windy, is it something you have to keep adjusting or basically set it once and your done? Another question about draft settings... I see the blower for the grates has a plate you can adjust for air flow (keystoker 90), how will I know where to set the plate on the blower?

NO, they are NOT pre-calibrated, every stove setup is different. The Field Controls RC, most of us use (http://fieldcontrols.com/rc.php) has the scale on it to get it close when setting up it initially. Usually once or twice a season they need to be checked/calibrated. Many of us keep the manometer hooked up all the time and can easily tell what the draft is.

You should/need to calibrate it with a Draft Gauge (Manometer) with a good hot fire, so it can maintain the proper draft on the stove and pull the required draft when really needed on a full burn. There is no other SAFE way to calibrate it, you don't want CO leaking into the house!! It will open/close more when it 's windy, but that will maintain the proper draft on the stove and not pull more air thru it and loose more heat up the chimney.

Read the threads on Baro Install and MANOMETER install for more info.

The Blower plate is factory set at about 1/2 open on the Keystokers, that will adjust your burn, more ash or more clinkers (fused together, too much air), etc....usually you don't have to mess with that at all, but it will change the draft if you change the plate setting, then you have to readjust your baro slightly.....

It's not too complicated, once you do it once.....and read up on how to do it.

Thanks for the info, is this manometer sufficient? It's not the digital one which is the mark III I believe.

Dwyer Mark II Model 25 Inclined Manometer, 3" WC

Yes, that the one many of use use. You can usually find them around the internet for $30-40. You will only use a very small amount of the scale. See this thread for install pics and calibration.

manometer install

WNY wrote:Yes, that the one many of use use. You can usually find them around the internet for $30-40. You will only use a very small amount of the scale. See this thread for install pics and calibration.

manometer install

Thanks WNY for the info and link for manometer install, I feel like I'm working on a science project haha. Question... are all baro dampers adjustable or only some?

Everyone I've ever seen is adjustable. I just had a new steam boiler installed and the baro on the pipe is an 8" ajustable.

Just a little update on the performance of my stove (Keystoker 90) this winter. The stove had absolutely no problems keeping the entire upstairs toasty warm (74F), I didn't have to put any registers in the floor at all I only used the stairwell as the cold air return and heat delivery. I do realize this winter was exceptionally mild and this probably wasn't the most accurate representation of what I can expect every winter, but even on the few very cold nights (single digits) the stove was able to keep up and hold the upstairs temp at 70F. I bought 3 tons of buckwheat coal and as of right now I believe I have about 1/2-3/4 of a ton left. That's CHEAP heat!! This is the best investment I ever made for heating. I love this stove, I hope it lasts a looooooooong time.

Glad your coal burning experience has been a good one..
Read up on 'springtime maintenance' of your stove.. this will keep your stove properly cleaned and in 'storage mode' for the summer..
and this will make your stove last a LOOOONNNNNGGGG time..

Greg L

LsFarm wrote:Glad your coal burning experience has been a good one..
Read up on 'springtime maintenance' of your stove.. this will keep your stove properly cleaned and in 'storage mode' for the summer..
and this will make your stove last a LOOOONNNNNGGGG time..

Greg L

Thanks Greg, I'll be sure to read up on that.

If for some reason you ever decide to upgrade, the Keystoker 105 would be perfect. The 105 is double-walled unlike your 90 which is a single-wall stove. This would send MUCH more of the heat upstairs instead of it being radiated out into the basement. And of course, that extra 15k btu's would help too!

EarthWindandFire wrote:If for some reason you ever decide to upgrade, the Keystoker 105 would be perfect. The 105 is double-walled unlike your 90 which is a single-wall stove. This would send MUCH more of the heat upstairs instead of it being radiated out into the basement. And of course, that extra 15k btu's would help too!

He doesn't have ductwork, he has electric baseboard heat..

But with a forced air system the 105 is a much better 'almost furnace'.

Greg L

is right! I sure don't miss those $450/month bills. Even Propane (which I also have as a backup) is expensive anymore... last year I heated with just propane and I spent $1,300, and still had to have some electric heat on at the other end of the house. This year with coal, NO electric heat whatsoever or propane.