Rebuilding EFM DF-520 Project

Re: Rebuilding EFM DF-520 Project

PostBy: stoker-man On: Sat Feb 05, 2011 11:30 pm

If it were my pot, I'd hold on to the grates for awhile. The worm looks like it has a sharp edge......replace it.
stoker-man
 
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: 1981 efm wcb-24 in use 365 days a year
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite/Chestnut
Other Heating: Hearthstone wood stove

Re: Rebuilding EFM DF-520 Project

PostBy: gwjwbw On: Sun Feb 06, 2011 9:20 am

there will be some pics of the worm, and any other parts for the worm, then we go from there
Gerard
gwjwbw
 
Stove/Furnace Make: EFM DF520

Re: Rebuilding EFM DF-520 Project

PostBy: gwjwbw On: Sun Feb 06, 2011 9:25 am

coal berner wrote:
gwjwbw wrote:ok, I'm going ahead and making the 8in round collar. I figure I'm missing some kind of collar for the worm, that the one thing I need to order, but gonna wait till whateles I may need before the control stuff.
The frame for the base is all welded, now on monday start on making the sides, then it be ready.
Should I paint the inside and if I do, what type of paint?
I figure I use normal high temp paint for the outside.
Will add pics to show the frame on monday night, then more pic before base get paint.
So far, it been a good project, and cant wait to put in the stoker to fire it up and see what it does.
Thank for your help
Gerard

Auger tube /Pipe 2" ID Pipe either S.S. Aluminum or Sec 40 carbon steel
You will probably need a new Pot bushing and a Auger bushing installed before you fire up the stoker .
Don't forget to put the gas holes facing up / towards the top of pot on the Pot Auger tube should be 5 or 7 holes 1/8"
make sure the stop pins are in the auger bell were the Auger goes into the pot should be a slot cut into the end of Auger tube to set against the pin should be inside the cut slot to stop the auger pipe from moving left to right .
also there should be a stop pin on the air tube side as well to lock in the air tube in to the pot and the blower housing end

Check for cracked or broken grates and make sure the pot has three gaskets in it one at bottom where the grates sit on the goose neck one at the top under the grates and one under the ash ring that goes on top of grates /Pot .
Fill the Oil pan under the drum gear with 20 weight oil or synthetic oil. ATF Fluid works to
Depending on what gearbox you have check fluid 90 weight gear oil or synthetic gear oil
check to see if there is a shear pin in at the end of shaft at the Sq. end.
Are you using the Pot Auger only or both Pot & Bin Auger if both you need a auger pipe coupler to Join both auger tube pipes together.

Don't forget to seal up the base to boiler with boiler putty or hi temp silicone as well as the base side plates and rear flue plate and auger tube going thur the base with 3/8" rope gasket around the inside of auger tube plate that bolts
on the side of base .

Everything should be sealed up good air tight.

Oh don't forget ash door gasket to as well a viewing door gasket.
Hi temp paint for out side of boiler and base I would not really bother with the inside of boiler with paint it will only last a short time before it burns off I would do the inside of base to help with the coal ash from eating the base up .
Also use cider or cement blocks under the 4 corners of base to keep it off the ground /floor that will also help the bottom of base from rotting out from damp floor you need air to circulate under the base.
You also will need a new water coil Gasket



Instead of using block, why dont I just make some legs for it? While I'm making a whole new base, might as well go all out with it, I'm even gonna put in a ash door in the vent compartment, because I saw alot of fly ash back there, now what eles is a good idea to do? lol Thank, Gerard
gwjwbw
 
Stove/Furnace Make: EFM DF520

Re: Rebuilding EFM DF-520 Project

PostBy: gwjwbw On: Sun Feb 06, 2011 3:16 pm

ok people, here some pics of the worm, what you guys think?
The worm is not sharp, guess it ok to use, the tube for the worm, I'm not sure about that.
But I'm still on planning to install the stoker in the base to fire it up and let it run for a few hours outside.
Gerard
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gwjwbw
 
Stove/Furnace Make: EFM DF520

Re: Rebuilding EFM DF-520 Project

PostBy: stoker-man On: Sun Feb 06, 2011 4:52 pm

Hey, that's the wrong end of the worm. I want to see the end on the pot side. Your threaded end is broken off so you won't be adding any other worm to it.
stoker-man
 
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: 1981 efm wcb-24 in use 365 days a year
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite/Chestnut
Other Heating: Hearthstone wood stove

Re: Rebuilding EFM DF-520 Project

PostBy: gwjwbw On: Sun Feb 06, 2011 5:59 pm

you mean this end?
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gwjwbw
 
Stove/Furnace Make: EFM DF520

Re: Rebuilding EFM DF-520 Project

PostBy: stoker-man On: Sun Feb 06, 2011 7:38 pm

I want to see where the spiral starts, about 18" inward from the cotter pin hole.
stoker-man
 
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: 1981 efm wcb-24 in use 365 days a year
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite/Chestnut
Other Heating: Hearthstone wood stove

Re: Rebuilding EFM DF-520 Project

PostBy: coal berner On: Mon Feb 07, 2011 10:51 am

gwjwbw wrote:wow, that alof of info to digest, lol
anyway, what you think of this fire pot?
getting the screw out it another thing
Thank you, Gerard

Look like you need three out of the six from what I can see from the dark pic
I would pick up or get three refurb ones sent to you the refurb ones will fit better then three New ones with your 3 old
ones remaining If you go New get all 6 of them .
The reason why you want to replace the cracked ones is your going to need to take the pot of the air tube to replace the pot bushing and you will have to use some force to do that by using a rubber hammer or a block of wood with a steel
hammer a torch to heat it up if you got one once you start bagging on the pot those cracked brittle grates will be in pieces when your done getting the pot off and the bushing out and new one in .
You should rebuild the pot anyway with new gaskets and grates pot bushing .
You never put a band ad on a broken Bone .
To add to your parts list you probably will need a new or refub clean out rod with eye bolt and a shoulder bolt for the clean out plate that holds the eye bolt clean out rod on the bottom of pot because they usually snap off when removing them
Last edited by coal berner on Mon Feb 07, 2011 12:03 pm, edited 2 times in total.
coal berner
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 Electric Furnace Man 520 DF
Stove/Furnace Make: Electric Furnace Man
Stove/Furnace Model: DF520

Re: Rebuilding EFM DF-520 Project

PostBy: coal berner On: Mon Feb 07, 2011 11:05 am

gwjwbw wrote:wow, that alof of info to digest, lol
anyway, what you think of this fire pot?
getting the screw out it another thing
Thank you, Gerard

If you talking about the pot screws turn it upside down and cut off the nuts then put new screws and Nuts on
One of the screw will have to be shorter then the others to clear the air tube bell on the pot .
If your talking about the Auger coming out well Just pull on it it will slide out being there are no cotter pins holding it onto the drive shaft & coupler .
coal berner
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 Electric Furnace Man 520 DF
Stove/Furnace Make: Electric Furnace Man
Stove/Furnace Model: DF520

Re: Rebuilding EFM DF-520 Project

PostBy: coal berner On: Mon Feb 07, 2011 11:14 am

gwjwbw wrote:ok people, here some pics of the worm, what you guys think?
The worm is not sharp, guess it ok to use, the tube for the worm, I'm not sure about that.
But I'm still on planning to install the stoker in the base to fire it up and let it run for a few hours outside.
Gerard

New Pot Auger tube for sure .
I would either get a New or Refub Pot Auger with a New Auger bushing as well as a New Pot bushing
Get the list together of Parts and call and get them ship to you or stop by the shop and get all the parts at one time .
Bring your old ones with you Your only 1 hr 09 minutes away or 65.7 miles .
coal berner
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 Electric Furnace Man 520 DF
Stove/Furnace Make: Electric Furnace Man
Stove/Furnace Model: DF520

Re: Rebuilding EFM DF-520 Project

PostBy: coal berner On: Mon Feb 07, 2011 11:50 am

gwjwbw wrote:
coal berner wrote:
gwjwbw wrote:ok, I'm going ahead and making the 8in round collar. I figure I'm missing some kind of collar for the worm, that the one thing I need to order, but gonna wait till whateles I may need before the control stuff.
The frame for the base is all welded, now on monday start on making the sides, then it be ready.
Should I paint the inside and if I do, what type of paint?
I figure I use normal high temp paint for the outside.
Will add pics to show the frame on monday night, then more pic before base get paint.
So far, it been a good project, and cant wait to put in the stoker to fire it up and see what it does.
Thank for your help
Gerard

Auger tube /Pipe 2" ID Pipe either S.S. Aluminum or Sec 40 carbon steel
You will probably need a new Pot bushing and a Auger bushing installed before you fire up the stoker .
Don't forget to put the gas holes facing up / towards the top of pot on the Pot Auger tube should be 5 or 7 holes 1/8"
make sure the stop pins are in the auger bell were the Auger goes into the pot should be a slot cut into the end of Auger tube to set against the pin should be inside the cut slot to stop the auger pipe from moving left to right .
also there should be a stop pin on the air tube side as well to lock in the air tube in to the pot and the blower housing end

Check for cracked or broken grates and make sure the pot has three gaskets in it one at bottom where the grates sit on the goose neck one at the top under the grates and one under the ash ring that goes on top of grates /Pot .
Fill the Oil pan under the drum gear with 20 weight oil or synthetic oil. ATF Fluid works to
Depending on what gearbox you have check fluid 90 weight gear oil or synthetic gear oil
check to see if there is a shear pin in at the end of shaft at the Sq. end.
Are you using the Pot Auger only or both Pot & Bin Auger if both you need a auger pipe coupler to Join both auger tube pipes together.

Don't forget to seal up the base to boiler with boiler putty or hi temp silicone as well as the base side plates and rear flue plate and auger tube going thur the base with 3/8" rope gasket around the inside of auger tube plate that bolts
on the side of base .

Everything should be sealed up good air tight.

Oh don't forget ash door gasket to as well a viewing door gasket.
Hi temp paint for out side of boiler and base I would not really bother with the inside of boiler with paint it will only last a short time before it burns off I would do the inside of base to help with the coal ash from eating the base up .
Also use cider or cement blocks under the 4 corners of base to keep it off the ground /floor that will also help the bottom of base from rotting out from damp floor you need air to circulate under the base.
You also will need a new water coil Gasket



Instead of using block, why dont I just make some legs for it? While I'm making a whole new base, might as well go all out with it, I'm even gonna put in a ash door in the vent compartment, because I saw alot of fly ash back there, now what eles is a good idea to do? lol Thank, Gerard

Well if you can make legs wide enough and strong enough to support 800lbs of empty boiler and 1100 lbs when full of water then go for it .

But 4X8 paver or cement solid block are cheap you will need 4 one on each corner .
Being you have a DF 520 with a Sq door you do not need a clean out door on the back of base You can clean everything
thur the front door and you need to do a clean out once a year or twice a year depending on what coal you are burning

By taking the baffle plate off the brackets and putting it to the side then taking out the two back plates on the hooks
you can clean out the flat heat exchanger plates as well as all the fly ash in the back or bottom of base by using a 1-1/4" shop Vac hose with one or two hose attachments or by taking off the breach pipe in the back you can go thur the 8" flue
hole to vac out the fly ash in base you need to take off and clean out the pipe any way .
coal berner
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 Electric Furnace Man 520 DF
Stove/Furnace Make: Electric Furnace Man
Stove/Furnace Model: DF520

Re: Rebuilding EFM DF-520 Project

PostBy: gwjwbw On: Mon Feb 07, 2011 5:05 pm

up date...........
pics of frame before skin goes on tomm
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gwjwbw
 
Stove/Furnace Make: EFM DF520

Re: Rebuilding EFM DF-520 Project

PostBy: stoker-man On: Mon Feb 07, 2011 6:08 pm

Looks pretty strong to me.
stoker-man
 
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: 1981 efm wcb-24 in use 365 days a year
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite/Chestnut
Other Heating: Hearthstone wood stove

Re: Rebuilding EFM DF-520 Project

PostBy: Poconoeagle On: Mon Feb 07, 2011 6:16 pm

yes indeed and the last one shows the cost! :)
Poconoeagle
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Buckwalter & Co. , EFM520
Stove/Furnace Model: No. 28 Glenwood 1880, Alaska

Re: Rebuilding EFM DF-520 Project

PostBy: 009to090 On: Mon Feb 07, 2011 7:21 pm

Do you need any diagonal braces in the base, just to keep it from twisting? Just a thought...
It appears to have great compression strength, but I'm wondering about tension, albeit, it should be low.
009to090
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520 HighBoy
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: DVC-500 x 2
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Rice