Rebuilding EFM DF-520 Project

coal berner wrote:

gwjwbw wrote:ok, I'm going ahead and making the 8in round collar. I figure I'm missing some kind of collar for the worm, that the one thing I need to order, but gonna wait till whateles I may need before the control stuff.
The frame for the base is all welded, now on monday start on making the sides, then it be ready.
Should I paint the inside and if I do, what type of paint?
I figure I use normal high temp paint for the outside.
Will add pics to show the frame on monday night, then more pic before base get paint.
So far, it been a good project, and cant wait to put in the stoker to fire it up and see what it does.
Thank for your help
Gerard

Auger tube /Pipe 2" ID Pipe either S.S. Aluminum or Sec 40 carbon steel
You will probably need a new Pot bushing and a Auger bushing installed before you fire up the stoker .
Don't forget to put the gas holes facing up / towards the top of pot on the Pot Auger tube should be 5 or 7 holes 1/8"
make sure the stop pins are in the auger bell were the Auger goes into the pot should be a slot cut into the end of Auger tube to set against the pin should be inside the cut slot to stop the auger pipe from moving left to right .
also there should be a stop pin on the air tube side as well to lock in the air tube in to the pot and the blower housing end

Check for cracked or broken grates and make sure the pot has three gaskets in it one at bottom where the grates sit on the goose neck one at the top under the grates and one under the ash ring that goes on top of grates /Pot .
Fill the Oil pan under the drum gear with 20 weight oil or synthetic oil. ATF Fluid works to
Depending on what gearbox you have check fluid 90 weight gear oil or synthetic gear oil
check to see if there is a shear pin in at the end of shaft at the Sq. end.
Are you using the Pot Auger only or both Pot & Bin Auger if both you need a auger pipe coupler to Join both auger tube pipes together.

Don't forget to seal up the base to boiler with boiler putty or hi temp silicone as well as the base side plates and rear flue plate and auger tube going thur the base with 3/8" rope gasket around the inside of auger tube plate that bolts
on the side of base .

Everything should be sealed up good air tight.

Oh don't forget ash door gasket to as well a viewing door gasket.
Hi temp paint for out side of boiler and base I would not really bother with the inside of boiler with paint it will only last a short time before it burns off I would do the inside of base to help with the coal ash from eating the base up .
Also use cider or cement blocks under the 4 corners of base to keep it off the ground /floor that will also help the bottom of base from rotting out from damp floor you need air to circulate under the base.
You also will need a new water coil Gasket

gwjwbw wrote:wow, that alof of info to digest, lol
anyway, what you think of this fire pot?
getting the screw out it another thing
Thank you, Gerard

gwjwbw wrote:wow, that alof of info to digest, lol
anyway, what you think of this fire pot?
getting the screw out it another thing
Thank you, Gerard

gwjwbw wrote:ok people, here some pics of the worm, what you guys think?
The worm is not sharp, guess it ok to use, the tube for the worm, I'm not sure about that.
But I'm still on planning to install the stoker in the base to fire it up and let it run for a few hours outside.
Gerard

gwjwbw wrote:

coal berner wrote:

gwjwbw wrote:ok, I'm going ahead and making the 8in round collar. I figure I'm missing some kind of collar for the worm, that the one thing I need to order, but gonna wait till whateles I may need before the control stuff.
The frame for the base is all welded, now on monday start on making the sides, then it be ready.
Should I paint the inside and if I do, what type of paint?
I figure I use normal high temp paint for the outside.
Will add pics to show the frame on monday night, then more pic before base get paint.
So far, it been a good project, and cant wait to put in the stoker to fire it up and see what it does.
Thank for your help
Gerard

Auger tube /Pipe 2" ID Pipe either S.S. Aluminum or Sec 40 carbon steel
You will probably need a new Pot bushing and a Auger bushing installed before you fire up the stoker .
Don't forget to put the gas holes facing up / towards the top of pot on the Pot Auger tube should be 5 or 7 holes 1/8"
make sure the stop pins are in the auger bell were the Auger goes into the pot should be a slot cut into the end of Auger tube to set against the pin should be inside the cut slot to stop the auger pipe from moving left to right .
also there should be a stop pin on the air tube side as well to lock in the air tube in to the pot and the blower housing end

Check for cracked or broken grates and make sure the pot has three gaskets in it one at bottom where the grates sit on the goose neck one at the top under the grates and one under the ash ring that goes on top of grates /Pot .
Fill the Oil pan under the drum gear with 20 weight oil or synthetic oil. ATF Fluid works to
Depending on what gearbox you have check fluid 90 weight gear oil or synthetic gear oil
check to see if there is a shear pin in at the end of shaft at the Sq. end.
Are you using the Pot Auger only or both Pot & Bin Auger if both you need a auger pipe coupler to Join both auger tube pipes together.

Don't forget to seal up the base to boiler with boiler putty or hi temp silicone as well as the base side plates and rear flue plate and auger tube going thur the base with 3/8" rope gasket around the inside of auger tube plate that bolts
on the side of base .

Everything should be sealed up good air tight.

Oh don't forget ash door gasket to as well a viewing door gasket.
Hi temp paint for out side of boiler and base I would not really bother with the inside of boiler with paint it will only last a short time before it burns off I would do the inside of base to help with the coal ash from eating the base up .
Also use cider or cement blocks under the 4 corners of base to keep it off the ground /floor that will also help the bottom of base from rotting out from damp floor you need air to circulate under the base.
You also will need a new water coil Gasket

Instead of using block, why dont I just make some legs for it? While I'm making a whole new base, might as well go all out with it, I'm even gonna put in a ash door in the vent compartment, because I saw alot of fly ash back there, now what eles is a good idea to do? lol Thank, Gerard