Introducing... my Glenwood No. 6 Base Heater

dlj wrote:

pma wrote:-didn't realize coal falling into backburner backpipe would be a problem-you may be right about coal related grate function.
Don't think grate would be an obstruction to wood though- it's pretty flush. In fact the two tabs on your backing plate that the grate sits onto (assume you have these tabs) stick out further than the grate itself. I'm still baffled that you can bolt grate to backplate/jacket/backpipe AND/or cotter pin it securely in place onto the two tabs of the backing plate....seems reduntant

- I didn't know if you were missing the backing plate along with the grate or not. Some of these stove pics here...forget which ones, are showing stove backpipe just bolted to jacket with no backing plate....in which case, I could see sealing problems.

pma,

Sounds more and more like the grate in the back was an option. I do have the tabs.

I don't think I'd spend much time thinking about the redundancy, that was much more common back then. Especially if the back grate was an option. Certainly if I didn't have the backing plate, that could be part of the seal problem. My backing plate is original in cast iron. It's in quite good shape. I took it apart last year and did a re-seal on that back joint and then bolted it back together. I was surprised at how good a condition my backing plate was in - I was expecting much worse... I mean, the stove is about 100 years old and that location takes a lot of heat...

dj

pma wrote:
I'd say you are likely right...

pma wrote:Yes, original part: GBH 6 1909 44 on back. I assume it's cast...but not quite sure how to tell difference.

I have one in better shape- thought not perfect. Think I'm going to do a little bondo touch up and have a couple new ones cast. -also want to have a new air ring assembly cast. I'm a bit worried about the shrinkage though. Hoping gasket material/grinding (?) can compensate? Or perhaps a crimping (not sure of term) around circumference the jacket at the right area....slightly shrinking diameter of stove jacket in that area to match expected shrunken diameter of air ring due to recasting. Really don't know...no experience, just speculating...shrinkage may be minimal enough to not matter.

pma wrote:William, I wonder if is significantly cheaper to have copies cast from an original in batches...if so, might be worthwhile to group plan. [in other words, are two copies from an original double the price of one...or significantly less?] sure you save set up time/effort.

dlj wrote:

pma wrote:Yes, original part: GBH 6 1909 44 on back. I assume it's cast...but not quite sure how to tell difference.

I have one in better shape- thought not perfect. Think I'm going to do a little bondo touch up and have a couple new ones cast. -also want to have a new air ring assembly cast. I'm a bit worried about the shrinkage though. Hoping gasket material/grinding (?) can compensate? Or perhaps a crimping (not sure of term) around circumference the jacket at the right area....slightly shrinking diameter of stove jacket in that area to match expected shrunken diameter of air ring due to recasting. Really don't know...no experience, just speculating...shrinkage may be minimal enough to not matter.

If I had the part in my hand I could tell you, and show you how to tell. Not so easy to explain... Man, that stove was run hot! Shrinkage is typically 1/8" per foot.

pma wrote:William, I wonder if is significantly cheaper to have copies cast from an original in batches...if so, might be worthwhile to group plan. [in other words, are two copies from an original double the price of one...or significantly less?] sure you save set up time/effort.

If you have several parts to put in the mold at once, then yes, you'd find the per piece cost drop noticeably. If you only have one part then you might not have much difference - doesn't hurt to ask though..

dj