New Boiler Temps
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS 260
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I burned wood all day and the boiler works great with wood. Now I am confused.. The boiler temps stayed at 160*-180* ALL DAY ! I had more heat than I knew what to do with. I cranked all the thermostats to the mid 70s including the attached garage and the new shop. At 9:00 tonight I just checked on it and threw another log in. It is humming nice at 175* and my shop housing the boiler is a warm 70 .
The boiler works great with wood now how do I make it work with coal? I am going to stack it with wood till tomorrow and call Amos at the factory ,maybe UPS will bring my manometer tomorrow..
Mac
The boiler works great with wood now how do I make it work with coal? I am going to stack it with wood till tomorrow and call Amos at the factory ,maybe UPS will bring my manometer tomorrow..
Mac
- lsayre
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
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Glad to hear that the boiler is capable. Was it designed for wood and/or bituminous coal (air over), or was it designed for anthracite coal (air under)? What kind of coal have you been burning in it?
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You did get the coal model, right...
DS#3C Boiler...
Not the wood model...
DS#3W Boiler...
DS#3C Boiler...
Not the wood model...
DS#3W Boiler...
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS 260
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- Other Heating: Pellet,oil
The slip and the handwritten paper on top of the boiler says DSC#3 . It has the grates and shaker handle I never saw the wood version and would think it would not have the grates with a shaker handle . Last night I drifted off at 10 woke up at 11 pm the boiler temp with the wood was at 215 every room in the hose was 72, the new shop was 70. I increased the house garage call for heat and opened a door to loose some heat .Filled the boiler with coal and closed the MPD . My wife asked if I was worried . I laughed and said the boiler has never went past 160 for any length of time with coal. I checked on it at 1:30 am it was at 140 and as usual at 5:30 Am a nice red bed ready to be topped off with a boiler temp at 120*. It is dependable for consumption and 120* output and 160-190 with wood.
Mac
Mac
- oliver power
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From what I've gathered following this post, I'm going to stick my neck out here. I'm going to say the boiler is poorly designed for coal. I'm thinking if the 3" water tubes were smaller, and more of them, you'd have better heat transfer, due to more surface area. Here's my theory; The gasses are comming off the fire, and going up, and out the flue. On this path, the hotter wood gasses are rubbing the surface area of the two 3" water tubes you say cross the boiler/firebox. Heat is being absorbed, and boiler temp rises. The coal gasses take the same path. Because the coal gasses are cooler, not much heat to transfer. Which all goes back to what we've been saying all along. The coal fumes needs to be held/trapped, and slowed way down in the firebox. They are simply passing through, taking the BTU's along for the ride. If you were to put a baffle up high, inbetween the two 3" tubes, and the smoke outlet, I think you'd see a big difference. Lowering the smoke outlet, or extending the one you have down, will also trap heat. Your draft needs to pull the coal gasses down, and then out the exaust pipe, leaving the heat trapped in the boiler. Apparently, the closed 8" damper with 2 holes in it is still not slowing things down enough. Remedy: You need to trap the heat in the boiler, and install a barometric damper.
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A call to Amos will help solve the problem...
- oliver power
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I agree CapeCoaler. It's time the originator's get involved. Good answer....CapeCoaler wrote:A call to Amos will help solve the problem...
About two pages back he said he talked with Amos when he mentioned only needing a mechanical damper.oliver power wrote:I agree CapeCoaler. It's time the originator's get involved. Good answer....CapeCoaler wrote:A call to Amos will help solve the problem...
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS 260
- Coal Size/Type: Pea
- Other Heating: Pellet,oil
I ordered a manometer and forgot today is a holiday ,should have it tomorrow . I attached some pics been so busy messing with it .. I have probably 100 pictures of the clock the temp , time of day load or no load on and on..... here is some basic pictures of the setup I have a new Droid and still learning how to get use to it for pictures.
mac
mac
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Last edited by macdabs on Mon. Feb. 21, 2011 3:41 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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- Member
- Posts: 143
- Joined: Mon. Jan. 03, 2011 1:57 pm
- Location: central Pa
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS 260
- Coal Size/Type: Pea
- Other Heating: Pellet,oil
More pics of the boiler and house interface to the existing boiler. And the paint color on the oil boiler temp background is John Deere Green ..
I had left over and resprayed the shell when I cleaned it one summer. I get busted on all the time when some one sees the boiler...
Mac
I had left over and resprayed the shell when I cleaned it one summer. I get busted on all the time when some one sees the boiler...
Mac
Attachments
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- Member
- Posts: 143
- Joined: Mon. Jan. 03, 2011 1:57 pm
- Location: central Pa
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS 260
- Coal Size/Type: Pea
- Other Heating: Pellet,oil
Here is pictures of the wood fire with the boiler temps. I had to turn all the stats up in the house to get rid of the heat . The new shop temp was 72 and I had al the stats cranked up to get rid of the heat at the house also.. It was heating bliss..... If I can get the same results with coal I will be one happy camper.
Mac
Mac
Attachments
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Somewhere you mentioned not being sure about how to set the automatic damper up. I believe it's the same as used on Chappee boilers, either a calorstat or Sampson.
Here is an owner's manual for Chappee that a member was kind enough to scan. http://cemrweb.cemr.wvu.edu/~mathews/boiler/
Page 8 has the directions on setting the damper chain length vs. numbers on the stat.
Here is an owner's manual for Chappee that a member was kind enough to scan. http://cemrweb.cemr.wvu.edu/~mathews/boiler/
Page 8 has the directions on setting the damper chain length vs. numbers on the stat.
Mac,
Please go back to basics...
#1...I see four adjustable draft knobs
The two on the upper door MUST be closed to burn anthracite, Are they?
#2...The two on the base of the unit should be open far enough to regulate the heat (speed of burn) of
the coal fire...No one can tell you exactly how far to open them... But the rule would be
to stay below Over-firing Temperatures. The water circulation should help to moderate
over-firing too.
Can you confirm the above?
Then move to other issues as need be.
Many who have had similar problems in the past have found that they had not enough coal loaded,
or that the heat was going up the flue...or both! You may have an enormous volume of air going up
the flue and its temperature could then be low, and seemingly within proper limits. You have guages
but not the single most important, in solving this riddle..the manometer.
Bob
Please go back to basics...
#1...I see four adjustable draft knobs
The two on the upper door MUST be closed to burn anthracite, Are they?
#2...The two on the base of the unit should be open far enough to regulate the heat (speed of burn) of
the coal fire...No one can tell you exactly how far to open them... But the rule would be
to stay below Over-firing Temperatures. The water circulation should help to moderate
over-firing too.
Can you confirm the above?
Then move to other issues as need be.
Many who have had similar problems in the past have found that they had not enough coal loaded,
or that the heat was going up the flue...or both! You may have an enormous volume of air going up
the flue and its temperature could then be low, and seemingly within proper limits. You have guages
but not the single most important, in solving this riddle..the manometer.
Bob
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Hey Sting,
Love the new haircut - great photo.
Love the new haircut - great photo.