I was talking about air leaking in over the coal fire, dampening the coal fire. Where as a wood fire would thrive in same situation. It's a long shot, due to the fact that the coal is all burning up. I still say trap the heat, and add a baro. Is there a hanging baffle that was supposed to come with that boiler, but did not? KEYSTOKER boilers have water walls, low stack outlet, and hanging baffle. The baffle hangs on a couple hooks. How about a picture of the rest of your firebox (3" water tubes, walls, smoke outlet, etc.). Fireplaces are never efficient. That's why the fireplace insert was invented.macdabs wrote:The pictures with the wood was almost all wood embers , the stove really burns wood well . I have a double sided fireplace that takes up half my living roof with fans that will not produce the heat that the boiler can without sucking half of the heat out of the house. If I was retired I would just burn wood in the darn thing all the time.
The door I think is sealing pretty good I have a co2 detector next to the stove that has yet to detect anything.
We got dumped on snow last night I hope my manometer arrives today to get a handle on this and correct the problem or move forward with another boiler that way I am ready for next year . The ton of hard coal is almost gone and with all the snow it will be tough to find some good clean dry hard coal in our area this close to the end of the season.
The hanging flap at the load door is to help keep smoke from comming out when the door opens. Quite common on wood burners.macdabs wrote:There is a hanging flap above the loading door all it does is keep the fly ash back I think and deflect the flames if you open the door with the damper closed . I will try to get some pics of the fire box today . Also the boiler temp was at 100* at 5:30 am I loaded it to the max at 11:30 Pm . When the bed gets half way down I noticed the coal on the outer edge turn grey and the rear of the box do not burn as good . This makes it difficult to pack the stove again and get a good fire going so the boiler struggles again to get back up to temp. Not to mention if you have a zone for a heat call everything takes that much longer. I think the ash buildup in the 6 hours could be killing the burn also . I was really waiting to hear from someone that is using the same boiler to compare notes... I attached a copy of the only thing i got with the boiler for setup and operation.
macdabs wrote:My wife called the manometer arrived. What is the best place to drill the hole above the MPD 8"? I got a digital handheld unit with a brass barb fitting. She shot me pic looks pretty nice .Can't wait to get some readings with the MPD closed and opened.