Which Chimney Layout Do You Recommend?

I am contemplating moving my MkIII from the basement to a room on the 1st floor of my home. I am considering this because it would give me the additional "radiant" heat from the stove, and it would decrease the area that I am heating by 1/3. There is no way to tie into my existing chimney from the 1st floor and the stove location would be unsatisfactory for numerous reasons even if there was. I have the perfect spot for the stove as far as access and air distribution are concerned. I would need to add a SS triple wall chimney. Here is my question: Which type would be best, through the roof or through the wall? There would be significant cost savings with the through the roof kit. (The roof will be replaced anyway.) Thanks for your input.

The $$ saved makes me think through the roof is a no-brainer. The only downside to the through the roof version I can see would be the need to disconnect from the stove and having to support the flue pipe from the stove to the ceiling while cleaning out the fly ash from the stove.

titleist1 wrote:The only downside to the through the roof version I can see would be the need to disconnect from the stove and having to support the flue pipe from the stove to the ceiling while cleaning out the fly ash from the stove.

Which could easily be accomplished via a decorative brace running the full length of the chimney which could be installed during construction. You could run it on the backside of the piping so that it is a bit more difficult to see.

the best would be an 8/8 flue masonry chimney straight up - it will look better, last longer, and cost less $$

I don't think there would be any need to support the chimney while cleaning it or the stove. The through the roof kits have a support box that mounts to the ceiling rafters to support all of the chimney above that point. Plus there is some support added by the flashing on the roof. Everything below ceiling height is simply single wall black stove pipe.

I am not even considering building another masonry chimney. There is too much BS in my area concerning codes and having a certified person construct it. I am also skeptical that it would provide any cost savings.

Through the roof. Costs less and the chimney stays warmer.

Through the roof is always better. So isn't a masonary chimney. Myself, I used a metal chimney because it fit my modular home perfect. I would have gone masonary myself but, would have needed major structural work. Ya see, where I wanted the chimney to go (Through the closet), the metal chimney slipped up through all my framing, including the hinged roof structure of the modular home. My clearance to wood is exactly two inches, which is specified by the chimney manufacturer. All I needed to do was cut the sheetings. As much as I hate to, I'll most likely use metal again. One more thing: When I had the HITZER stove hooked up, I had the "T" turned so that it acted as a "drop leg" for fly ash to collect, and not build up, plugging the exaust. I didn't do that with the Kaa-2 boiler, and thought I'd be kicking myself. Turns out, I like it much better. Pop the cap off, stick the shop vac in the "T" , and tap on pipe. I can vaccume clear to the boiler, without disconnecting the pipe. See picture.

I'm guessing you might not have the room for a masonry chimney in your LR? The SS chimney with a ceiling mount allows you to 'tuck' your stove into the corner, or, against the wall, wherever you're putting it. The masonry will take up at least 20" square of space you might not have. I'm struggling with the same issue, but I have the option of mounting it on another wall and building an exterior masonry chimney which I hope to do this summer. But I'll have to insulate as well as I can, especially for my baseburner. Definitely, the interior chimney will draft better, be less prone to condensation, look better, and probably last longer. 'Olympia Chimney' - referenced elsewhere on this site- provides a lifetime warranty even for coal use. BTW, my local masonry supplier suggested a round liner since they apparently draft better than square or rectangular.

[quote="4570FAN"]I am contemplating moving my MkIII from the basement to a room on the 1st floor of my home. I am considering this because it would give me the additional "radiant" heat from the stove, and it would decrease the area that I am heating by 1/3.

Isn't the heat satisfactory now? Would a grate in the floor help circulation?? By only heating the upstairs how much coal do you plan to save?

4570FAN wrote:I don't think there would be any need to support the chimney while cleaning it or the stove. The through the roof kits have a support box that mounts to the ceiling rafters to support all of the chimney above that point. Plus there is some support added by the flashing on the roof. Everything below ceiling height is simply single wall black stove pipe.

I am not even considering building another masonry chimney. There is too much BS in my area concerning codes and having a certified person construct it. I am also skeptical that it would provide any cost savings.

I was thinking of the mid season cleaning that I usually do on my Mark III where I'll take the pipe out of the exhaust port on the back of the stove and clean out the back and top of the baffle where fly ash accumulates on these stoves. Since mine is a through the wall set up I only have about 4' of pipe to maneuver and clean at that time. I was picturing trying to handle a longer length pipe for a through the roof set up, but maybe it can just dangle from the support box with no problems.

I installed a masonary chimney over 30 years ago. It is like day one, I insulated the space between the tile and the block to help with draft. All joints are sealed with refractory cement, as well as the footing coated as well before laying the first tile. I wish round tile was available as well because I understand it drafts the best.

constructing a basic 8/8 tile and block masonry chimney is simple and cheap; i'm no pro mason and I've put them up start to finish in as little as three days. It is VERY rare that any locality other than a major metropolitan area would have any restrictions on a property owner building his own chimney, and following code with a basic tile lined block chase is very simple. It will likely save you money on initial construction and will save you money over the life of the stack - stainless doesn't last very long.

Any chance is there a closet near where you want the stove ? Good place to hide things.

My current masonry chimney passes through my living room. There isn't a thimble opening anywhere except the basement. I'm sure that one could be made, but the location of the stove would be a real hassle. It would interfere with "traffic" substantially.

I do have a vent in my floor. It is the grate from an old gas floor furnace. I even have the hot air ducted from the stove to the grate. Tonight it is 2 deg outside. The basement is 78 and the rest of the house is 70 to 72. It's nice to have the floors that warm, but aren't I wasting a lot of heat? It is an unfinished basement, with the red ceramic type block, not concrete.

I just think I could do better with the stove on the 1st floor. It would be in a room all by itself, away from "traffic", near an unused entrance door, with the air ducts pointing into the main living area of the house.

What do you guys think?

4570FAN wrote:My current masonry chimney passes through my living room. There isn't a thimble opening anywhere except the basement. I'm sure that one could be made, but the location of the stove would be a real hassle. It would interfere with "traffic" substantially.

I do have a vent in my floor. It is the grate from an old gas floor furnace. I even have the hot air ducted from the stove to the grate. Tonight it is 2 deg outside. The basement is 78 and the rest of the house is 70 to 72. It's nice to have the floors that warm, but aren't I wasting a lot of heat? It is an unfinished basement, with the red ceramic type block, not concrete.

I just think I could do better with the stove on the 1st floor. It would be in a room all by itself, away from "traffic", near an unused entrance door, with the air ducts pointing into the main living area of the house.

What do you guys think?

Looking at your temperature swing, I think you should leave it where it is. Put it up stairs, and forget the warm floors. Moving the stove up stairs isn't going to save you much coal either. Are there any other reasons you want to move the stove up stairs?