not doing so good :(

http://www.ventingdirect.com/united-sta ... m/p1587157

Found the 1557 kit for $150.

Also found the manual on US Stoves Site and according to the instructions the 11 DIKL installs to the rear of the furnace and for the 16 DIKL it mounts to the front of the unit somewhere. Though, I'm not sure where.

http://www.usstove.com/Downloads/Owners ... 11DIKL.pdf

I will have to agree, it sounds like a draft issue. maybe a pic of your chimney pipe would also help, a short run out of you tin shed will have a big effect on draft. Also, Im sure other members will probably have a better idea than I would but a single 6 pipe into you house sounds like a pretty big bottle neck for your heat.

Thanks Yall

well another crappy night after im on fires tip about the fan i went out to the shop and dug up a blower that looked like the one they sell, and a little rigging to the fan and i got it stuck on the stove, turned it on and all seemed to be good had heat and when the thermostat shut down the blowers the stove felt good and didnt act like it wanted go into melt down, went to bed at 12 it was 74 and by 5 it was 62 NOW when i looked at the stove this morning there was still 90% of the pile of coals still in there,no flames just red coals, but im guessing that they are not giving off enough heat to keep the limit switch on, as to the chimney it was short but i added to it for the coal burning its about 10' tall now, was 4' for burning wood. so im still lost as to whats wrong, if i open the ash door draft OR feed door draft or both it will crank out heat and keep the house hot BUT when the thermostat shuts off the blowers when its hot in the house the stove sits there and just gets extremely HOT its so hot that you can smell it and you cant even touch any part of the air cover on it im sorry to keep bugging everybody about this, i have a little less than a 1/2 ton to burn and if i dont get it fixed by then im going to have to go back to wood (wife is tired of cold mornings) thanks again

OK here is a 2 year olds drawing of what i have (its the best i could do with the mouse on the laptop)

the RED is the coal
the orange is the hot air into the house
the blue is cold air for the blowers
this set up works fine with wood (but i wanted to burn coal for ease of handling and length of burn)

Does your owners manual tell you anything about the dorced induction fan? I see someone else posted about it mounting on the rear but I was told that it has to be mounted to the front. It seemed that anything mounted to the rear would only push air into and around the firebox but would not help with the burning in anyway. In order to help the burning it would need to push air directly into the fire box under the coal.

paulfun wrote:Does your owners manual tell you anything about the dorced induction fan? I see someone else posted about it mounting on the rear but I was told that it has to be mounted to the front. It seemed that anything mounted to the rear would only push air into and around the firebox but would not help with the burning in anyway. In order to help the burning it would need to push air directly into the fire box under the coal.

yet it shows the forced air and it does show it for the back, they have a special plug in the back of the stove to take out... thanks

Tnguy wrote:

paulfun wrote:Does your owners manual tell you anything about the dorced induction fan? I see someone else posted about it mounting on the rear but I was told that it has to be mounted to the front. It seemed that anything mounted to the rear would only push air into and around the firebox but would not help with the burning in anyway. In order to help the burning it would need to push air directly into the fire box under the coal.

yet it shows the forced air and it does show it for the back, they have a special plug in the back of the stove to take out... thanks

The forced air distrabution kit has a 100cfm fan and should blow air around the firebox (inside) from the sides when hooked up to the rear of the stove ( according to US Stoves). Thats about all the info I have so just make sure you have at least the 100cfm fan is all I can think of other than wireing the fan.
Did you have the forced air fan wired to only work with the distrabution blowers or did you wire it direct to force air constanly? Might make a difference.
Wish I could be of more help!

question, how do have the furnace hooked to you house thermostat? tell me if I am wrong here but it sounds like you have have it so your circulation fan turns on according to your temp in your house instead of the temp in your plenum, that would account for the overheating. You should be controlling you house temp with the draft on your fire , not by the quantity of warm air being blown in.

paulfun wrote:

Tnguy wrote:

paulfun wrote:Does your owners manual tell you anything about the dorced induction fan? I see someone else posted about it mounting on the rear but I was told that it has to be mounted to the front. It seemed that anything mounted to the rear would only push air into and around the firebox but would not help with the burning in anyway. In order to help the burning it would need to push air directly into the fire box under the coal.

yet it shows the forced air and it does show it for the back, they have a special plug in the back of the stove to take out... thanks

The forced air distrabution kit has a 100cfm fan and should blow air around the firebox (inside) from the sides when hooked up to the rear of the stove ( according to US Stoves). Thats about all the info I have so just make sure you have at least the 100cfm fan is all I can think of other than wireing the fan.
Did you have the forced air fan wired to only work with the distrabution blowers or did you wire it direct to force air constanly? Might make a difference.
Wish I could be of more help!

how did you get that info from them?? i spent an hour on the phone with them and barley got the name of the stove out of them

the forced air fan is wired to come on when the thermostat in the house tells the distrabution blowers to come on, there is a limit switch wired up on the stove that wont let the distrabution blowers run till the stove is up to temp BUT the forced air blower i wired in BEFORE the limit switch so it will blow to help heat up the stove faster. as for the forced air blower its an old thing and i dont know how much air it puts out

thanks for all the help

Willis wrote:question, how do have the furnace hooked to you house thermostat? tell me if I am wrong here but it sounds like you have have it so your circulation fan turns on according to your temp in your house instead of the temp in your plenum, that would account for the overheating. You should be controlling you house temp with the draft on your fire , not by the quantity of warm air being blown in.

no the coal stove has its own thermostat in the house to control the blowers, the trouble i have with overheating is that when i get the draft adjusted to keep the house warm then when the blowers shut off it feels like the stove is going to overheat

thanks for the help

yet it shows the forced air and it does show it for the back, they have a special plug in the back of the stove to take out... thanks[/quote]


The forced air distrabution kit has a 100cfm fan and should blow air around the firebox (inside) from the sides when hooked up to the rear of the stove ( according to US Stoves). Thats about all the info I have so just make sure you have at least the 100cfm fan is all I can think of other than wireing the fan.
Did you have the forced air fan wired to only work with the distrabution blowers or did you wire it direct to force air constanly? Might make a difference.
Wish I could be of more help![/quote]

how did you get that info from them?? i spent an hour on the phone with them and barley got the name of the stove out of them

the forced air fan is wired to come on when the thermostat in the house tells the distrabution blowers to come on, there is a limit switch wired up on the stove that wont let the distrabution blowers run till the stove is up to temp BUT the forced air blower i wired in BEFORE the limit switch so it will blow to help heat up the stove faster. as for the forced air blower its an old thing and i dont know how much air it puts out

thanks for all the help[/quote]

I simply called the 1-800 number on thier web site and went to tech help. Was polite and told them you were my cousin and couldnt call because of your work hours. talk nice and be polite!

Still not so sure I like the Idea of air being forced around the sides of the fire!? It seems to me that all the coal stoves have air movement from the bottum up not forced in from the sides (anyone have any thoughts on this?)

Could you give us a pic of the stove from the front with the ash door open as I,m curious of the difference between the 1557 and the 1600 being that one is said to have the air forced in from the front and yours is said to be forced in from the rear/sides?

I'm not a bit burner but stove blower operation isn't based on what fuel is being used. If I understand this correctly, the blower is controlled by the house thermostat and not a stat on the stove itself. You fire the stove, the thermostat in the house turns on the blower to heat the house and when the house gets warm, the thermostat in the house shuts off the blower, the stove is still cranking and it gets HOT with no air circulation when the blower unit shuts down.

Try temp wiring the blower to a stat that is controlled by stove temp not the house temp. My edumacated guess is that it will solve the overheating stove problem and transfer your problem to the temp in the house. If that does turn out to be the case, then you will have the good problem of trying to burn less coal because the house is getting too hot. Experiment with opening "windowstats" to control house temps while you back this beast down. When you get the temps in the house satisfied back off on the stove temps and close the windows. That will stop the temperature swings for the stove and even things out. Then you can back down on the fuel usage till you get to the happy medium.

ok Update


i think i got most of it whipped, the limit switch on the stove was way up in the top left corner and even with burning wood it would shut off way too early because it wasnt getting the heat to stay on, so i moved it down closer to the fire box and it worked great SO under the same theory i started sitting the switch here and there on the stove till i found the "sweet" spot. now i run the air draft low and the stove rns at a "non melt down" temp and the blower runs longer.. all in all i threw a few big chunks in it last night at around 8pm and it lasted till 7am before the fan started to cycle on and off because there wasnt enough heat to keep it going...

i know its not the right set up BUT it works for me for now, when i get rich like yall then il get a good set up LOL


THANKS FOR THE HELP FROM ALL

Could you slow the heat transfer to your house in order to get a better burn from the coal by forcing it to burn longer? That way it would be more like a boiler and radiant type setup rather than a blast of hot air and then a cool down period.

Just throwing thoughts out there for you to ponder, maybe it won't work for your particular case.