AHS S130 : Barometric Damper and Flue diameter question

Thanks! I'm not totally excited about 24 gauge snap lock, but at least it's 5".

I wonder if it would be possable to use truck exhaust pipe in 5"http://store.airflo.com/exhaust-elbows.html

You want Imperial Brand Black Matt stovepipe 24 ga

SKU# BM0110 5" x 24" BM Stove Pipe

Adj. Elbow 24 ga

BM0013 5" x 90deg BM Adj. Elbow

Bought mine at the local Ace Hardware. If your local store doesn't stock it they can order it.

Imperial product selector web site:

http://www.imperialgroup.ca/catalog.cfm ... ategory=12

Download catalog:

http://www.imperialgroup.ca/pdf/Black-StovePipe_US.pdf

My local HVAC wholesale house doesn't stock wood stove stove pipe. Even with a trade discount it was more expensive to special order there that the in stock price at my local Ace Hardware.

Might this tickle your fancy:

304L or 316L Stainless Steel Rigid Chimney Liner Pipe...316L is the one rated for coal & oil.

Smooth Walled Interior
The fact that the Rigid liner has a smooth wall on the interior of the pipe means that you get optimum draft and flow, a flex liner can produce small amounts of turbulence and some installations may require a smooth interior pipe.

http://www.chimneylinerdepot.com/store/ ... Liner.html

Oh, and yes liner may be used for stove pipe.

When I installed my 130M , I set it up per the AA instructions using the type M baro, 6" baro tee at the thimble, 5" pipe from the AA with one 90 bend. The notable exception is that I couldn't get the 5" to slip into the 6" tee so I didn't complete it that way. I do not have an excessive natural draft in my 21' chimney.

My observations:

I did not experience any exhaust gasses coming into the boiler room.

The type M baro was unnecessary except to break the excessive draft on windy days. The intent of the AA factory recommendation is to prevent undesired stoking and overheating the boiler because of excessive draft. Ultimately I set it to the maximum for those occasions. Being a novice I didn't "get that" until after the first year.

The type M baro weight adjustment and pins rusted up quickly due to the acid content of the exhaust. That rendered it useless as a precision instrument, not that it mattered in this case.

The pressure drop, and resulting loss of effluent velocity, created when the gasses pass from the 5" to the 6" pipe caused fly ash to accumulate in the 6" pipe, some 2" deep.


After three seasons my 5" vent pipes needed replacement. Taking lessons from experience and from Yanche and others, I decided to experiment and use 5" all the way from the AA to the vertical clay liner in the chimney. I did this to keep the effluent velocity high for the entire trip from boiler to chimney. I figured that the risk of fly ash accumulating in the 6" would be eliminated. I used a cheaper 5" Fields B34 baro.

My observations:

The baro, not being required for regulating firing draft, works just fine set to allow relief only during high wind situations.

I do not get gasses in the boiler room when the stoker fires, despite not having the baro tee modified per the AA manual.

There is far less fly ash accumulating in my horizontal vent pipes. It is mostly in the tee snout at the baro.

Yanche wrote:You want Imperial Brand Black Matt stovepipe 24 ga

SKU# BM0110 5" x 24" BM Stove Pipe

Adj. Elbow 24 ga

BM0013 5" x 90deg BM Adj. Elbow

Bought mine at the local Ace Hardware. If your local store doesn't stock it they can order it.

Imperial product selector web site:

http://www.imperialgroup.ca/catalog.cfm ... ategory=12

Download catalog:

http://www.imperialgroup.ca/pdf/Black-StovePipe_US.pdf

My local HVAC wholesale house doesn't stock wood stove stove pipe. Even with a trade discount it was more expensive to special order there that the in stock price at my local Ace Hardware.

Many thanks Yanche! I've got a local Ace Hardware not too far from me.

McGiever wrote:Might this tickle your fancy:

304L or 316L Stainless Steel Rigid Chimney Liner Pipe...316L is the one rated for coal & oil.

Smooth Walled Interior
The fact that the Rigid liner has a smooth wall on the interior of the pipe means that you get optimum draft and flow, a flex liner can produce small amounts of turbulence and some installations may require a smooth interior pipe.

http://www.chimneylinerdepot.com/store/ ... Liner.html

Oh, and yes liner may be used for stove pipe.

That 316 SS pipe looks fantastic, but at $60 for 2 feet of it it is a bit steep in price for sure!!!

McGiever wrote:Might this tickle your fancy:

304L or 316L Stainless Steel Rigid Chimney Liner Pipe...316L is the one rated for coal & oil.

Smooth Walled Interior
The fact that the Rigid liner has a smooth wall on the interior of the pipe means that you get optimum draft and flow, a flex liner can produce small amounts of turbulence and some installations may require a smooth interior pipe.

http://www.chimneylinerdepot.com/store/ ... Liner.html

Oh, and yes liner may be used for stove pipe.

Has anyone successfully used chimney liner pipe as stove pipe?

I've thought about it. Assuming you could structurally support it soundly, it would be a long lived solution. Not very practical in my opinion. My long lived stove pipe would be schedule 40 steel pipe. A good welder with some pipe cutting band saws and geometry skills for determining elbow wedges could do it.

lsayre wrote:

McGiever wrote:Might this tickle your fancy:

304L or 316L Stainless Steel Rigid Chimney Liner Pipe...316L is the one rated for coal & oil.

Smooth Walled Interior
The fact that the Rigid liner has a smooth wall on the interior of the pipe means that you get optimum draft and flow, a flex liner can produce small amounts of turbulence and some installations may require a smooth interior pipe.

http://www.chimneylinerdepot.com/store/ ... Liner.html

Oh, and yes liner may be used for stove pipe.

Has anyone successfully used chimney liner pipe as stove pipe?

Larry,
A metal chimney liner built to exist in any and all chimney environments is a superior product when compared to a manufactured for interior use only stove pipe.

Note: I'm not advocating or endorsing chimney liners for use inside a chimney...just as substitute for interior stove pipe if that tickles your fancy.

Isayre:

For what it's worth (perhaps nothing), I removed my baro damper(a 5" model) after the first year. I rarely have an excess draft condition; my problem is usually marginal draft. My chimney is 22'-23', my boiler is in the basement and I frequently run with .01" idle draft. For me, the baro damper was just another location for draft and/or exhaust leakage.

I guess that with your particular conditions, and the experience to know that the damper wasn't accomplishing much, it made sense to actually remove it. I will need a damper though, as my situation may be different. My oil boiler even has a damper on it.

My oil burner has a damper on it also. I think the oil units are very sensitive to airflow (and thus draft) conditions.

I'm in for a 6" baro damper with the 5" flue pipe as per AA. My Coal Gun manual says that a standard type "M" damper should be used, but "RC" units seem popular and they are less expensive. What are the differences, and should I spring for the more expensive type "M" barometric damper, or will the "RC" be sufficient? Is there anything different with regard to how an "M" is installed vs. how an "RC" is installed?

It appears from photos that the Type RC slips into a standard stove pipe Tee, but (also from observing photos) the Type M does not appear to have the depth to indicate that it also slips into a Tee. How is an M damper properly installed? This is the same questing as I had asked above, but with no answers to date I had to bump this up.