I Have My Base Burner (BB)
- wsherrick
- Member
- Posts: 3744
- Joined: Wed. Jun. 18, 2008 6:04 am
- Location: High In The Poconos
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Base Heater, Crawford Base Heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford Base Heater, Glenwood, Stanley Argand
- Coal Size/Type: Chestnut, Stove Size
The main things that should be tight are; seams, doors, dampers and windows. A small amount of secondary air above the fire won't hurt the efficiency of the stove.
-
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 11417
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 5:11 pm
- Location: Kent CT
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
- Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
I would try a stud finder both on the roof and on your ceiling. I don't know how it would work through the roof shingles but worth a try without disturbing anything.nortcan wrote:I think that the idea to get just in the middle of a chevron scare me for the chimney's job.
Well, when driving back home this AM, I reminded that hole at the top of the stove. Yes sometime I shoot a bit too fast... On my Vigll, when I drilled the 2 holes in the front doors, it was for over the fire gasses burning. But after a while I didn't realize a big change for that. I didn't push the testing very much :a Golden Bride stole my mind...But one thing really had changed: the glasses stay very clean. They didn't get very dirty before but now the air coming from these holes really air wash the glasses. On the photo, you can see the glasses not cleaned for more than 2 months and they were just whipe a little before that time.wsherrick wrote:The main things that should be tight are; seams, doors, dampers and windows. A small amount of secondary air above the fire won't hurt the efficiency of the stove.
Then I try a lot of times to just ajar the top griddle after loading the stove. Instantly the blues ignited like in a gas stove. So I realised that the air coming from the 2 holes was sucked to the top of the stove and exit there and not over the fire. I admit that the hole at the top of the Golden can be a plus and like Wsherrick said won't hurt and if it does like on the V.C. with the top griddle, it may activate the gasses ignition.
Attachments
I don't know what type of stud finder you have but I did try with a couple of models and never had a good result. I have a new one in stock and will give it a chance. Nothing to loose.franco b wrote:I would try a stud finder both on the roof and on your ceiling. I don't know how it would work through the roof shingles but worth a try without disturbing anything.nortcan wrote:I think that the idea to get just in the middle of a chevron scare me for the chimney's job.
Thanks
Hi. When reading some other posts on the forum about stove makers challenges,, I was wondering if the Golden Bride was equipped for the over the fire gasses burning.
So one more time I examinated it. If my deduction is correct (we never know), the stove has a slot just in front of the fire pot acting as an air channel aiming to the top of the fire pot for the over the fire gasses burning.
The fire pot is suspended and can be pull out of the stove like a drawer. So the air is heated around the outside part of the fire pot then goes up to the upper slot and arrives over the anthracite load to help for the gas burning.
Still the lower small slot I made a flapper for. Someone told me that the slot was to enter a poker to remove coal and ash coming too close to the windows???? But is it also possible the slot was to get some more air for the over the fire gasses burning? It's placed just below the air path going to the upper slot. But then why a flapper, maybe for closing the hole when shaking? But the flapper is a gravity closing so it can't stay open to feed air to the fire pot??? Don't really know the reason for the small slot with the flapper.
So one more time I examinated it. If my deduction is correct (we never know), the stove has a slot just in front of the fire pot acting as an air channel aiming to the top of the fire pot for the over the fire gasses burning.
The fire pot is suspended and can be pull out of the stove like a drawer. So the air is heated around the outside part of the fire pot then goes up to the upper slot and arrives over the anthracite load to help for the gas burning.
Still the lower small slot I made a flapper for. Someone told me that the slot was to enter a poker to remove coal and ash coming too close to the windows???? But is it also possible the slot was to get some more air for the over the fire gasses burning? It's placed just below the air path going to the upper slot. But then why a flapper, maybe for closing the hole when shaking? But the flapper is a gravity closing so it can't stay open to feed air to the fire pot??? Don't really know the reason for the small slot with the flapper.
Attachments
- wsherrick
- Member
- Posts: 3744
- Joined: Wed. Jun. 18, 2008 6:04 am
- Location: High In The Poconos
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Base Heater, Crawford Base Heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford Base Heater, Glenwood, Stanley Argand
- Coal Size/Type: Chestnut, Stove Size
The little slot with the flapper door is a convenience to light a taper. You need a place to light a taper for your pipe or to light your lamps for the evening. That's what that is for.
You know Will, my English is far from perfect so I'm not sure if it's not a joke for me...but I thank you, I learned a new word: taper. Sometimes it's hard for me to understand and translate, lot of expressions have very different significations from one language to an other one.wsherrick wrote:The little slot with the flapper door is a convenience to light a taper. You need a place to light a taper for your pipe or to light your lamps for the evening. That's what that is for.
This small trap arrives at the lower part of the fire pot and don't know if there will be enough red coal to ignite something? Do you have the same trap on your Stanley A.?
- wsherrick
- Member
- Posts: 3744
- Joined: Wed. Jun. 18, 2008 6:04 am
- Location: High In The Poconos
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Base Heater, Crawford Base Heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford Base Heater, Glenwood, Stanley Argand
- Coal Size/Type: Chestnut, Stove Size
No I'm serious. The Round Andes I have has a slot just like that.nortcan wrote:You know Will, my English is far from perfect so I'm not sure if it's not a joke for me...but I thank you, I learned a new word: taper. Sometimes it's hard for me to understand and translate, lot of expressions have very different significations from one language to an other one.wsherrick wrote:The little slot with the flapper door is a convenience to light a taper. You need a place to light a taper for your pipe or to light your lamps for the evening. That's what that is for.
This small trap arrives at the lower part of the fire pot and don't know if there will be enough red coal to ignite something? Do you have the same trap on your Stanley A.?
-
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 11417
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 5:11 pm
- Location: Kent CT
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
- Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
If at the bottom of the fire pot maybe it is for the use of a flat poker to slice the grate.
- wsherrick
- Member
- Posts: 3744
- Joined: Wed. Jun. 18, 2008 6:04 am
- Location: High In The Poconos
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Base Heater, Crawford Base Heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford Base Heater, Glenwood, Stanley Argand
- Coal Size/Type: Chestnut, Stove Size
You can use the slot to poke the fire with a flat poker. On the Andes it doesn't make much sense to me because the little slot is right below the lower door which opens right into the bottom of the fire pot where there is a lot more room to use a poker. These stoves rarely if ever need a poker except if the coal bridges and you need to hit a little from the top to help it settle down.
William, you said that it was possible to only shake the stove with the round outer grate. So this way it is possible to get a small fire with more ash in the center of the bed. My question is do you know if it's possible to do the same but shaking only the center triangular grates? I was thinking that if the outer grate doesn't move there could be less dust in the lower part and less dust on the lower Mica
And do you think that the upper slot could be a pathe for gasses burning? I did try to explain it but not easy to do. Maybe I should take photos from an other angle and not so close to the stove.
Thanks Will and Franco
Thanks Will and Franco
- wsherrick
- Member
- Posts: 3744
- Joined: Wed. Jun. 18, 2008 6:04 am
- Location: High In The Poconos
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Base Heater, Crawford Base Heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford Base Heater, Glenwood, Stanley Argand
- Coal Size/Type: Chestnut, Stove Size
Sure, that upper slot is probably for a controlled amount of secondary air to enter over the fire. It probably would also act somewhat to keep the front windows clean as well. The stove has to have a provision somewhere for secondary air. As far as shaking the fire from the outside or the center. I can't tell you because I've never (yet) had a mica base burner. You will have to learn which way the stove likes to operated. Don't worry the Bride will tell you what she likes and dislikes.nortcan wrote:And do you think that the upper slot could be a pathe for gasses burning? I did try to explain it but not easy to do. Maybe I should take photos from an other angle and not so close to the stove.
Thanks Will and Franco
Will, you'r certainly right about the Golden Bride telling me what she likes and dislikes. But actually, it's the real bride/wife telling me to slow down the expenses for the Golden one. Probably a form of jealousy, 2 Brides in the same house already give a warmer house...wsherrick wrote:Sure, that upper slot is probably for a controlled amount of secondary air to enter over the fire. It probably would also act somewhat to keep the front windows clean as well. The stove has to have a provision somewhere for secondary air. As far as shaking the fire from the outside or the center. I can't tell you because I've never (yet) had a mica base burner. You will have to learn which way the stove likes to operated. Don't worry the Bride will tell you what she likes and dislikes.nortcan wrote:And do you think that the upper slot could be a pathe for gasses burning? I did try to explain it but not easy to do. Maybe I should take photos from an other angle and not so close to the stove.
Thanks Will and Franco
I agree with you for the idea on the front windows cleaner with the air going to the upper slot making a curtain for preventing the ash deposit on the glasses. According on all I read about antique stove makers, the used to always have a good reason for making a sole thing on their's stoves.
nortcan
Last edited by nortcan on Sat. Apr. 16, 2011 12:30 pm, edited 3 times in total.
As usual,
I have an other question for the Base Burner owners. When in base mode, the air/gasses...exit from the combustion chamber then down to the base under the ash pit. In that U turn chamber, do you have to clean the ashe accumulation very often in the heating season?
All these questions help me to wait till the first Golden firering...lol
Thanks
I have an other question for the Base Burner owners. When in base mode, the air/gasses...exit from the combustion chamber then down to the base under the ash pit. In that U turn chamber, do you have to clean the ashe accumulation very often in the heating season?
All these questions help me to wait till the first Golden firering...lol
Thanks