I have my base burner (BB)

freetown fred wrote:Nice house my friend How old is she??--That straight shot on the chimney seems to be your answer.

Thanks Fred. I built the house (80% myself and with a good friend) 27 years ago.
At first the temp. in the living room was much too high.Others parts of the house: bathrooms, small living room, basement were much colder and needed some electric baseboards heating. That is the reason why I made a faux-foyer or cage to keep the heat inside of it then the warm air is send in the basement , then sent in all the entire house. Less expensive than the electric baseboards and much more confortable than before.
Works fine since more than 20 Yrs. One of the biggest problem for the heat transfert in my house was that the stove is in the livingroom and I had to send heat down in the basement for my small office. Even more confortable in all seasons. Plus the air is filtered, sterilized, humidified if needed.
Salutations my friend fred

Hi, nothing to do with the present subject but just to show how I recover some $$$ on the hot water electric heating and pay the blower's motor electric consumption.
Here the city water enters the house at about 5*C all year round. So it creates a cold "stress" when entering in the hot water tank. The temp. at the ceiling where the black tank is, is at about 23*C 12/12. So the city water goes from 5*C to 20*C+ before entering in the hot water tank without affecting the basement temp. The next hydro bill went down immediatly.
This other "gadget" "also" works fine.

I like Greg, LS Farm's saying: "Spare time, what is that?"
nortcan

Hi would like to know if someone has already try to use a silicone rubber soft HT (but not the red one) to make gastetting for the doors on antique stoves?
Because the tight fit is very thin and metal/metal, it's hard to put a rope gasket and close the doors easily. I was thinking about a very light coat bed on the stove's seat and let the silicone dry a few days so the soft silicone would seal from the door's closing pressure. I saw a 700*F gasket maker product: Ultra Copper from Permatex, silicone and dry with a soft rubberized form.
Thanks

nortcan, I have used the copper on Harley motors with good results--I don't know how it would be on the BB door as far as maintaining it's pliable texture--it is a good product that withstands heat real well--nothing ventured, nothing gained What happened to the rope idea on the door? I would be inclined to stick with that. Later my friend. Fred

Fred, the idea of making a seal for the doors with silicone came in my head after I made gasket seals for the Mica windows with silicone. The last one I made, I put a small layer of silicone on the door's seat and one on the support side. Then I let the silicone dry for about one day, making the silicone rubber soft like. When tightning both pieces together the Mica stay clean, the silicone doesn't spread on the mica and seal the metal small imperfections while holding the Mica perfectly in place.

So I was imaginating a very thin layer of Ultra Copper silicone on the frame's side to make a soft seal. With the smaller rope gasket I placed on the stove seat, the doors are very hard to close. I would need to play with the hinges pins to adjust the doors but these pins are very little and I don't want to break some.

Nortcan,

You may find the doors seal well enough without the sealant. I don't know about your stove. On mine, they are quite tight. On my top doors where I have two that seal against each other and against the frame, there is a not so good seal between the two doors, but not bad. You may do well to run it for a season and see how it works.

That being said, if you do find a high temperature sealant that works, I'd like to hear about it. I would try it on mine...

dj

dlj wrote:Nortcan,

You may find the doors seal well enough without the sealant. I don't know about your stove. On mine, they are quite tight. On my top doors where I have two that seal against each other and against the frame, there is a not so good seal between the two doors, but not bad. You may do well to run it for a season and see how it works.

That being said, if you do find a high temperature sealant that works, I'd like to hear about it. I would try it on mine...

dj

DJ, the best I hope to find would be a very thin industrial H.Temp. silicone sheet material that could be cut to fit and glue in place. The Golden Bride as you saw have alot and a lot of doors, windows, micas... so I continue my "child" R & D hobby LOL
Salutations

nortcan, this season is coming to an end and I can't believe we'll all be waiting MONTHS to see your Golden Bride get fired up. I'm feeling like a kid in the back seat of a car ... are we there yet?

VigIIPeaBurner wrote:nortcan, this season is coming to an end and I can't believe we'll all be waiting MONTHS to see your Golden Bride get fired up. I'm feeling like a kid in the back seat of a car ... are we there yet?

Vig II PB, I shut down the Vig last Sunday but today, with the rain it's not very confortable. So I will make a small wood fire and will imaginate you "sitting in the back seat of your car". You really made me smile ...
And for the Bride (the stove), yes, must wait till ??? She needs a place to exit the gasses.

Made just one wood fire. The colder temp made me come back to the good ant burning. Plus with 3 to 4 pounds of ant /12 hrs, I will survive. Much better steady heat with ant and 12 hrs non-touch, impossible with wood fires, small or big.

I'm thinking about making a liner in the fire pot for the Golden. Maybe about 1" thick and going down about 1/4" above the rotating grate.
Not sure if the conical shape will be enough to support the liner inside the fire pot? I will lose the lower slots at the bottom of the fire pot but don't think it will be a problem.
Someone has made a liner in that kind of fire pot? Thanks
nortcan

franco b wrote:As William pointed out those slots allow a thicker layer of ash to build up and still allow a good air flow to the fire. Covering them could effect performance. He also provided a link for a cement that can be put on in a thin layer with a thick paint brush. I think I would try that first.

Franco,
What scare me about these vertical slots is that when shaking the round grate the ash/dust will spread all around the fire pot then on the micas around this section of the ash pit. What could be done (I supposed) is to have the lower part of the liner starting at the same place where the slots begin, at the top of the U shape of the slot ???
I was thinking to use only the triangular center grates with the liner going down almost to the outer round grate level so the fire pot would be very small and having just small center ant burning???
I think I searched a few time ago for the product William mentionned but was not able to open the site.A product we could apply with a hard brush would be the best but I should thry again that site. So I was thinking of a product like Rutland. I also saw Cotronic products (seem very good) but $$$$$$$$$$

You do not want to cover up the slots at the bottom of the firepot. If you do then you will mess up the air flow pattern in the stove. Don't be overly concerned about dust on the windows. If you use the stove you are going to get dust on them. The windows are easily wiped clean with a soft cloth and some windex. You can even use just plain water and clean the windows. Try to get that stuff I told you about to coat the inside of the fire pot. If you can't open the web page, tell me and I will get the telephone number for you, but again do not cover up the slots at the bottom.

wsherrick wrote:You do not want to cover up the slots at the bottom of the firepot. If you do then you will mess up the air flow pattern in the stove. Don't be overly concerned about dust on the windows. If you use the stove you are going to get dust on them. The windows are easily wiped clean with a soft cloth and some windex. You can even use just plain water and clean the windows. Try to get that stuff I told you about to coat the inside of the fire pot. If you can't open the web page, tell me and I will get the telephone number for you, but again do not cover up the slots at the bottom.

Will, thanks for the infos. Just before I read your post I sent an email to the link you gave me on a previous post about the lining product. If I can have this product it should protect the fire pot and let the slots like you said. Anyway if these lower windows get dirty, there are plenty other ones on the next upper level.