I have my base burner (BB)

Thanks Franco.
I probably didn't say it correctly about the cracking in the cement. What I was meaning is the cracking when the stove is burning, after a few monts/years...not during the curing time. Like fire bricks crack after a while, I was supposing that the liner would crack after some time so it's the reason for adding rope fiber in the cement...
The long time drying is a good suggestion.
nortcan

freetown fred wrote:I bet the BB can't wait to be fired up next season, so you'll stop pokin' & proddin' her. Rumor has it, she's ticklish

You know Fred, I do my best to keep her cool/cold and keep my hands as far as possible from her. As you know, She's a young Bride.

Nortcan...... I would go with the rope gasket fibers mixed in with the castable refractory cement. They use the fibers in concrete to prevent cracking. It would be the same principle.It would also strenghten the firepot. You would have to find out the correct ratio of fibers to refractory cement. I guess with a little bit of experimenting you'll figure it out.

buck24 wrote:Nortcan...... I would go with the rope gasket fibers mixed in with the castable refractory cement. They use the fibers in concrete to prevent cracking. It would be the same principle.It would also strenghten the firepot. You would have to find out the correct ratio of fibers to refractory cement. I guess with a little bit of experimenting you'll figure it out.

Thanks buck24. Yes the ratio but because I really don't know it, I think putting less fibers could be OK??? I hope???
nortcan

Nortcan, As you may have read, I'm in the process of converting my cookstove to coal and have sourced my parts. The guy I got them from in Maine here got me a box of stuff that looks like clay with grit in it. I think it's fireclay with silicates and alumina called refractory plastic. While I have not used it yet (stoves still burning wood in this cold spring weather) its seems like you mold it to the shape you want with a mallet or whatever. It softens up as you beat on it or "knead" it. Make the form you want and let it air cure for a couple days then a gentle fire to finish the cure. Just thought I'd throw that out there as it would work great for a round application (Think pottery!).

SteveZee wrote:Nortcan, As you may have read, I'm in the process of converting my cookstove to coal and have sourced my parts. The guy I got them from in Maine here got me a box of stuff that looks like clay with grit in it. I think it's fireclay with silicates and alumina called refractory plastic. While I have not used it yet (stoves still burning wood in this cold spring weather) its seems like you mold it to the shape you want with a mallet or whatever. It softens up as you beat on it or "knead" it. Make the form you want and let it air cure for a couple days then a gentle fire to finish the cure. Just thought I'd throw that out there as it would work great for a round application (Think pottery!).

SteveZee, do the guy told you what was that product? Do you have the name of the product on the box? Was it from Bryant? Any infos are wecome. I'm preparing my ideas and will make some testings soon. Thanks.
nortcan

Here is what I will use as a liner mold. The plastic dust can gives about 1" free space all around to put the ref. cement in. I have to make a ring/support just above the slots top so the liner will be from there to the fire pot's top. Placing some Pam or plastic wrap inside of the fire pot will avoid the cement to adhere to the cast iron so I can remove the liner if wanted.

nortcan wrote:

SteveZee wrote:Nortcan, As you may have read, I'm in the process of converting my cookstove to coal and have sourced my parts. The guy I got them from in Maine here got me a box of stuff that looks like clay with grit in it. I think it's fireclay with silicates and alumina called refractory plastic. While I have not used it yet (stoves still burning wood in this cold spring weather) its seems like you mold it to the shape you want with a mallet or whatever. It softens up as you beat on it or "knead" it. Make the form you want and let it air cure for a couple days then a gentle fire to finish the cure. Just thought I'd throw that out there as it would work great for a round application (Think pottery!).

SteveZee, do the guy told you what was that product? Do you have the name of the product on the box? Was it from Bryant? Any infos are wecome. I'm preparing my ideas and will make some testings soon. Thanks.
nortcan

Nortcan,

I don't have it yet because I need to drive down and get the material over the weekend. When I do I will post it to you. It's from Mark at the Love barn antique stoves in Orland , Me. about 20 miles south of Elesworth. Looks like you have it under control with the cement though. Good idea. In some ways it might be easier to pour the mold but for mine the firebox is a rectangle with some rounded edges so this clay will work well.

SteveZee, thanks for the reply. Like you say it's probably easyer with a more "liquid" cemant than clay for my liner. But I will appreciate the infos on your product.
nortcan

Hi. I was thinking that a 1/4" thick refract. cement pastille would crack or even blow out from a torch heating, but no. The cement got like a bright bulb and didn't react to the heat. I didn't notice any difference between the one with fiber and the one without it. So the final job will be next.

Outstanding--ain't trial & error grande

Hi. As you can see, the liner is not very far from now. But I don't know why my Wife thinks her dust can looks so smaller??? I should ask to the Bride.

So you used my idea of the steel ring to fit in the firepot. It looks like it fits very nicely.

William, yes I think it was a very good idea. With the ring at the base of the pot but above the slots, the liner could rests on a solid base.
Thanks, nortcan

I'm very glad you didn't block those air slots. If you did I was going to throw a big fit over it.