I have my base burner (BB)

William, no, no, I will not be jabbing and poking around the bride or abuse her. Well, I hope so...LOL

Fine job on the Brides pot liner Nort!~~
you are doing a fine job on the refit Congrats!

freetown fred wrote::nono:

I like them, always funny!
nortcan

Tim wrote:Fine job on the Brides pot liner Nort!~~
you are doing a fine job on the refit Congrats!

Thanks Tim. Happy to read you again.
These old /antique stoves have a very special attraction on me. The Bride is among them LOL.
nortcan or Nort for the in "Tim" ates!

For the burning rate control of the Bride, I wonder why I can run the Vig II at as low as about 150/200*F on the top of the stove without Baro,MPD and with the internal damper closed(long path) and I couldn't the same with the Golden Bride, in base burning mode and having a MPD? I really don't need very much heat in this room. At supposed 200*F on the Bride, it shouldn't be more than 5000 BTU???? or close to???? At these low temps, the pound/Hrs consummed with the Vig is very low and I hope the same on the Bride...and the combustion chamber is still larger in the Vig compared to the small Bride's fire pot.
Very hard to sleep with this Bride in the house. LOL. But having nice dreams

Hi, the Golden Bride's flue connector being 5", I'm thinking to go for a 5" flue pipe with a 5" MPD. Having a smaller fire pot now and needing only a low heat output from that stove, I wonder if there is negative point going for the 5"? Usually we can read on chimneys infos to go with the same size for the stove pipe as the stove's connector, 5" is quite rare and it's the question. The St.St. chimney will be a 6".
Comments on it are welcome. Thanks

Nortcan, your 6" SS chimney will be insulated and quite tall, IIRC from your earlier pictures of your abode. Your chimney height is necessitated by the adjacent roof line. We know that height aids draft. As a point of reference that might be helpful, my 6" SS chimney pulls like crazy at low temps and it's only 16' high. During the main part of this past winter I measured -.10 draft at normal running temps for our Vigilant II model 2310. This spring when on a very low burn I measured -.05 draft when the stove pipe skin temperature measured ~100*F. That number is considered a high normal for most chimneys running hot. I doubt that going up from 5" to the main 6" chimney will create any ill effects in your case other than the impact on exterior aesthetics

Thanks Vig II. Having a smaller stove pipe inside the room may look better??? cause the stove's top/finial is coning and this stove is a small one (N0. 12). I wish I have a piece of 5" stove pipe to compare to the 6" I have, just to compare the look. I also think the 5" would be warmer and could helps slowing down the 6" chimney's draft but don't really know. Not very pro on the chimney's side...
The outside chimney would have about 12 Ft and maybe little more. I should get on that roof one of these days.

Nortcan,
You must take care of my child that is now inside the Golden Bride. Don't come looking for me to pay any child support!!

Oops, double post.

wsherrick wrote:Nortcan,
You must take care of my child that is now inside the Golden Bride. Don't come looking for me to pay any child support!!

Just send a montly $$$$$ and all will be fine for the ""child's"" care. I don't ask very much cause you'r part of the Family now, Uncle Will...

nortcan wrote:

SteveZee wrote:Nortcan, As you may have read, I'm in the process of converting my cookstove to coal and have sourced my parts. The guy I got them from in Maine here got me a box of stuff that looks like clay with grit in it. I think it's fireclay with silicates and alumina called refractory plastic. While I have not used it yet (stoves still burning wood in this cold spring weather) its seems like you mold it to the shape you want with a mallet or whatever. It softens up as you beat on it or "knead" it. Make the form you want and let it air cure for a couple days then a gentle fire to finish the cure. Just thought I'd throw that out there as it would work great for a round application (Think pottery!).

SteveZee, do the guy told you what was that product? Do you have the name of the product on the box? Was it from Bryant? Any infos are wecome. I'm preparing my ideas and will make some testings soon. Thanks.
nortcan

Nortcan,

I went down today and picked up my grates and the refractory material. You had asked me the name and it's called Noxram made by Nock and Son. It is extremely heavy! The little box I have is maybe the size of a car battery and I swear it feels like it's full of uranium it's so heavy! Sheesh! The grates are quite nice also. Cast iron and mounted in a cast frame with gears to turn the both.

Stevezee. Thanks for the reply. Is that product expensive? Do you have to mix it with water and do you know the temp. it can stand?

nortcan wrote:Stevezee. Thanks for the reply. Is that product expensive? Do you have to mix it with water and do you know the temp. it can stand?

Hi Nortcan,

It was a little pricey yes. $50 for a fifty pound box. You don't mix it at all. It's like clay with silica and alumina oxide mixed in. Like a gritty clay. You take a piece off the block, and it softens up a little with handling. Then you form it into place and tap with a mallet or peen hammer to make the shape you want and seal it in. After you finish, take a wet sponge with scotchbright and smooth the surface. It then drys after a couple of days and you cure it with a small fire of wood. I'll try and post some pictures while I do the job in the other thread Converting my Glenwood C cookstove.