I have my base burner (BB)

freetown fred wrote:nortcan, how come the window heights are so different?? was there a wall there? OOOOH, that's a slider to the right?? now I got it

Fred, the problem we have here in Canada is because we use 2 systems; metric and regular like you. That is my scientific explanation for the height differences.

I'm On Fire wrote:Fred,

My house is the same way. In my son's room and in my kitchen. The height of the ceiling from the floor to the bottom of the window is 19". But when you go outside and look it's 36". Its weird.

IOF, did I told you that I was still looking for a "new foreman" ?????
But have a good day, anyway

Maybe it could HELP?

nortcan wrote:

I'm On Fire wrote:Fred,

My house is the same way. In my son's room and in my kitchen. The height of the ceiling from the floor to the bottom of the window is 19". But when you go outside and look it's 36". Its weird.

IOF, did I told you that I was still looking for a "new foreman" ?????
But have a good day, anyway

You can't fire me!!!

I'm On Fire wrote:

nortcan wrote:

I'm On Fire wrote:Fred,

My house is the same way. In my son's room and in my kitchen. The height of the ceiling from the floor to the bottom of the window is 19". But when you go outside and look it's 36". Its weird.

IOF, did I told you that I was still looking for a "new foreman" ?????
But have a good day, anyway

You can't fire me!!!

Yes I know, the Union is on your side and you are " ON Fire"

There ya go. Nice view my friend

nortcan wrote:Maybe it could HELP?

The hearth is coming along nicely. How are you going to run the chimney? Are you going straight up with it?

Thanks fred and Will. The biggest problem will be the space at the rear of the stove. On the photo I have the 18" needed at the front of the stove but not very much at the back. What I want to do is a multi shields walls (non-combustible) at the back. Was supposed to run the chimney to the back wall but it takes more space so it will be straight up.

If you do the shields,that should cut down on your clearence needed won't it?? then a 90* & out the wall & up on the outside of the house??? just a thought--I'm sure you've already made up your mind as to what to do

freetown fred wrote:If you do the shields,that should cut down on your clearence needed won't it?? then a 90* & out the wall & up on the outside of the house??? just a thought--I'm sure you've already made up your mind as to what to do

You'r right Fred. But I think making non-combustible walls is my only one chance...First, a foil sheet on the wall, after a 3/4" metal support bars(don't know the English word ) with a sheet iron screw on it, having a vent space at the bottom and at the top of it. After, metal studs fixed with the large sides(again to save space) supporting a concrete sheet screwed on it also having air vents at the bottom and at the top.

If I go with an horizontal set up, the outside insulated tee must extend too much inside the house, then the 90* also takes more space plus the code space requirements so I would need again non-combusting wall shields... never end?

At first I was supposed to make it the way you described but the so little space at the rear directed me upside. Just hoping not to arrive in front of a roof chevron.

nortcan wrote:At first I was supposed to make it the way you described but the so little space at the rear directed me upside. Just hoping not to arrive in front of a roof chevron.

If you have 10 inches to the wall from the smoke pipe then a single metal heat shield spaced 1 inch out from the wall will be enough. Bright galvanized or copper is very effective,less so if you paint it with heat resistant paint. Cement board is not a good heat shield.

You could also consider in addition, a heat shield standing on the floor behind the stove. Something like a fireplace fire screen only with sheet metal to replace the screen. Curved it would look nice. This would also shield the wood window moldings.

If you drill a 1/8 inch hole in the ceiling in the center of where the smoke pipe will go, then by using a plumb bob in the attic you can check for clearance to the roof chevrons. The roof flashing for coal should be either stainless or aluminum, not galvanized. Going straight up will be easier and cheaper than through the wall and have less turns to the pipe.

Yes--GOTTCHA--by the way, the English term, would be"3/4" metal support bars"

nortcan wrote:

freetown fred wrote:If you do the shields,that should cut down on your clearence needed won't it?? then a 90* & out the wall & up on the outside of the house??? just a thought--I'm sure you've already made up your mind as to what to do

You'r right Fred. But I think making non-combustible walls is my only one chance...First, a foil sheet on the wall, after a 3/4" metal support bars(don't know the English word ) with a sheet iron screw on it, having a vent space at the bottom and at the top of it. After, metal studs fixed with the large sides(again to save space) supporting a concrete sheet screwed on it also having air vents at the bottom and at the top.

If I go with an horizontal set up, the outside insulated tee must extend too much inside the house, then the 90* also takes more space plus the code space requirements so I would need again non-combusting wall shields... never end?

At first I was supposed to make it the way you described but the so little space at the rear directed me upside. Just hoping not to arrive in front of a roof chevron.

franco, thanks for the good informations. I just measure the distance from the pipe to the wall and it's 8". I was thinking of a concrete shield/wall cause I was thinking that the inss. inspector would like concrete but maybe not? I also like the round shield shape. Could be effective and attractive. I didn't know SS parts were available for the roof finition.

Fred, one day I will (hope to) master English as well as you do.

Just an old guys thoughts,but, I think sometimes, you speak er betterer then me

nortcan wrote:Fred, one day I will (hope to) master English as well as you do.