Harman Magnum Stoker - Hot Water Coil Hookup for Hot Water?

 
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beatle78
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Post by beatle78 » Wed. Oct. 10, 2007 9:14 pm

ok so I guess my real question is.

Will a surface mount aquastat be the best/easiest for my application?

It sounds like it.

Thoughts?


 
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Post by Matthaus » Wed. Oct. 10, 2007 9:45 pm

I would use an immersion type, the fittings to install it will not be that much more and you will know the water temp with no lag or variation due to ambient temperature. Here is one,
**Broken Link(s) Removed**Lots more on ebay and other places for less than $50 with shipping.

Although I am no expert at boiler controls, so maybe someone has a better solution? :)

 
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Post by beatle78 » Thu. Oct. 11, 2007 10:41 am

OK, so I've figured out another piece of the puzzle. Well, at least I think I did! :lol:

It appears that some aquastat controls BREAK on temp rise and some BREAK on temp fall, and some do both. I noticed a lot of Aquastat specs talk about SPST and SPDT switching.

The link you sent me was an SPST which breaks on Temp rise.

I nead either an SPST which makes on temp rise or an SPDT switch. An SPDT switch is basically a toggle switch. On temp rise, one side makes and one side breaks. I would just use the side that makes on temp rise.

This was a good link on switch definitions.
Last edited by beatle78 on Fri. Mar. 31, 2017 11:54 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Reason: <removed dead link>

 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Thu. Oct. 11, 2007 1:59 pm

beatle78 wrote:I noticed a lot of Aquastat specs talk about SPST and SPDT switching.
These terms refer to the type of switch (usually a toggle), SPST= single pole, single throw. SPDT= single pole, double throw.

 
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Post by Matthaus » Thu. Oct. 11, 2007 2:41 pm

As coaledsweat said the units are just made for 120VAC (1 hot wire) or 240VAC (2 hot wires), of course you can use the 240VAC units on 120VAC.

Since your circulator is 120VAC you will need the single throw switch, if I'm wrong and you have a 240VAC circualtor well then the double throw switches are available for the same price on ebay.

You can go to the Honeywell site and download the manual to get a full understanding of which model numbers can be used for switch close on temp rise.

Let the games begin! :lol:

 
Bob
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Post by Bob » Thu. Oct. 11, 2007 2:56 pm

Matthaus wrote: Since your circulator is 120VAC you will need the single throw switch, if I'm wrong and you have a 240VAC circualtor well then the double throw switches are available for the same price on ebay.
I think you mean a single pole switch is appropriate for 120VAC, and a double pole switch is appropriate for 240VAC.

 
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Post by Matthaus » Thu. Oct. 11, 2007 3:04 pm

:oops: yeah my throws and poles are swapped (hmmmm wonder if I can trade in this used brain for a new one! LOL)! Seems like that always happens :roll:


 
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beatle78
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Post by beatle78 » Thu. Oct. 11, 2007 4:36 pm

ok got it.

And for my application I need an aquastat that closes on Temperature rise correct?

 
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Post by Matthaus » Thu. Oct. 11, 2007 4:47 pm

Right, so that way the circulator starts when the water in the cold reaches the temp you want.

 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Thu. Oct. 11, 2007 4:50 pm

Matthaus wrote::oops: yeah my throws and poles are swapped (hmmmm wonder if I can trade in this used brain for a new one! LOL)!
Maybe you don't need a new brain, check to see if your polarity has been reversed. :)

 
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Post by Matthaus » Thu. Oct. 11, 2007 5:04 pm

Actually the problem is I'm running the 120VAC model brain on 12VDC! Anybody got a spare inverter? :lol:

 
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beatle78
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Post by beatle78 » Thu. Oct. 11, 2007 6:17 pm

Matthaus wrote:Right, so that way the circulator starts when the water in the cold reaches the temp you want.
OK perfect. Thanks!

OK, so this is an SPDT one, so I can use the circuit that closes on Temp Rise, but can I add a submersion well to any Aquastat?
**Broken Link(s) Removed**Also, I'm planning on using this relay to wire in parallel to the existing pump relay. Does anybody object to this? :?:

http://www.grainger.com/product/5LE35

 
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beatle78
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Post by beatle78 » Sun. Oct. 14, 2007 6:06 pm

Hi guys,

What kind of drill bit did you use to cut a hole in the side of the stoker?

Thanks,
Jeremy

 
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Post by Matthaus » Sun. Oct. 14, 2007 6:25 pm

Fastest way (other than a plasma arc) is to use a bi-metal hole saw with Isopropyl Alcohol for cooling and chip removal. Put the alcohol in a squeeze bottle and use enough to keep the saw cool (be careful, it is flammable :onfire: ).

Sounds like you are about ready to start this project. :)

 
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beatle78
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Post by beatle78 » Sun. Oct. 14, 2007 8:21 pm

Thanks!!! All the feedback I got on this site has been AWESOME!!

Yep, This project needs to start ASAP!

I just won some 3/4" flow checks on ebay :) They're the same ones that are in my system now.
**Broken Link(s) Removed**I'll probably have extra if anyone needs any!!

It's starting to get cold here in RI and I heard my oil heat kick on the other night :o

Got my 3 tons if rice delivered on Tuesday!


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